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HelicopterMain Discussion › Mavrikk ball link ends question
01-27-2007 05:13 AM  10 years agoPost 1
jbock24

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Loveland, Ohio USA

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I just got done rebuilding the head on my Raptor 30v1, some of the parts were mavrikk including the links and ends, everything went back together
with some research since I've never had to do such an extensive build
for three or more years, now I have a gem 2000 and load tester it will never happen again. Question is the link ends are so tight its a strain
on the servo's , is there a trick to making them a little less restrictive?? Thanks for the time to read my rant your input will be appreciated..

if you can't beat em, sneak up from behind..

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01-27-2007 05:31 AM  10 years agoPost 2
bustedmp

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Shamokin, PA

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You can use a sizing tool to resize them to fit the balls properly. It takes some time to do it, but it is well worth the effort. Your heli will have a much smoother feel to it. You can also squeeze the sides of the link against the ball with pliers to size it, but I haven't had much luck doing it that way. Mavvrick makes a sizing tool for ball links. It may be more than your ball links causing your linkage to bind. I just got done doing a complete tear down and rebuild of my r30v2 after watchings rays dvd on building the raptor. He went over things I never thought to look at.

The world is yours!

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01-27-2007 05:33 AM  10 years agoPost 3
jbock24

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Loveland, Ohio USA

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What dvd and I need all the help I can get,

if you can't beat em, sneak up from behind..

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01-27-2007 05:36 AM  10 years agoPost 4
951_Powerstroke

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Corona, Ca

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The mav tool is a good value, just make sure you go slow. Take a small amount out and test fit the link, and repeat as needed. I found that I needed to take the screw out of the tool and squeze the ball closed before cutting, otherwise the tool took to much material off the link. The link should fall under it's own weight, if done correctly.

Good luck,
Jay



Of coarse I know how to fly this thing, but if you see me running try to keep up!!

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01-27-2007 05:40 AM  10 years agoPost 5
bustedmp

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Shamokin, PA

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DVD's

You should look into rays authoratative dvd series. You can find them at

[url=http://rayshelitech.com]

I have vol 1 thru 5. the ones that helped me the most were vol. 3, 4 and 5. You have to buy 1,2, and 3 as a set, and 4, and 5 as a set. as far as building your machine to be nice and smooth, vol 4 and 5 are the ones. vol 1, 2, 3 deal with setup and flight trimming. They are the best if you don't have someone local to help you. Heliproz has them also.

The world is yours!

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01-27-2007 06:12 AM  10 years agoPost 6
jbock24

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Loveland, Ohio USA

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I'll have to check these out.

if you can't beat em, sneak up from behind..

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01-27-2007 05:33 PM  10 years agoPost 7
Zephan

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Lompoc, CA

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You can also make a sizing tool. Take a ball and mount it on whatever you want to use as a "handle". Then notch up the ball by squeezing it with a pair of pliers. I makes small notches in the the ball that won't take too much off the link at a time.


Trex600N & Trex450SE... DAMN! Another radio glitch!

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01-28-2007 12:27 AM  10 years agoPost 8
jbock24

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Loveland, Ohio USA

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Zephan excellent idea

I used an old blade grip with a ball on it, mared it up a little
works like a charm........

if you can't beat em, sneak up from behind..

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01-28-2007 01:22 AM  10 years agoPost 9
bustedmp

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Shamokin, PA

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another place that causes alot of drag in the control linkage on the raptor is the washout links. The biggest thing there is one of the washout arms needs to be shimmed out to get the links to line up perfect on the swash. I didn't even notice any of this stuff till I watched rays' dvd series. The techniques used by him not only aplly to raptor, but can be used on any heli cause the theory is the same. If you use the stock tail servo config with the rod thru all the guides on the boom, drill the rod guides out to 1/8th inch. The rod will slide thru them much easier then.

The world is yours!

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01-28-2007 01:36 AM  10 years agoPost 10
jbock24

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Loveland, Ohio USA

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Is that why theres more tension on the wash out arm in certain areas of the swash plate than others its been making me nuts today, that
and just me normally...

if you can't beat em, sneak up from behind..

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01-28-2007 02:10 AM  10 years agoPost 11
bustedmp

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Shamokin, PA

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Pop one of the washout links off the swash at a time, and see which one rests rests way past the ballon the swash. If the fisrt one you pull off needs to be pushed more towards the washout hub to line up with the ball, you need to shim out the other arm from the washout hub. You can use m3 flat washer to do this. I think I ended up useing 2 flat washers on mine to get it right. when done properly the washout hub should move freely on the main shaft. Before I shimmed mine, It took a good amount of force to move it, after shimming, it fell down the shaft under its own weight. My r30 is much nicer now that I took the time to get everything working smooth. I thought it was good before, But after watching the dvd, I took the whole heli apart and checked everything.

The world is yours!

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01-28-2007 04:45 AM  10 years agoPost 12
jbock24

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Loveland, Ohio USA

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I'm gonna order 4 and 5 tomorrow, and I'll try the shim, I think I understand.

if you can't beat em, sneak up from behind..

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01-28-2007 02:32 PM  10 years agoPost 13
bustedmp

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Shamokin, PA

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Good choice, they will help you alot.

The world is yours!

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01-28-2007 04:53 PM  10 years agoPost 14
jbock24

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Loveland, Ohio USA

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I'm running outta options

so I've tried everything I can think of, I have inspected each ball joint all are now smooth,I can't see a problem with the washout links or swash. I took everything apart and put back, checked clearences
when the paddles are over the boom there is resistence from something
moving the servo arm by hand or with tx I can feel or see the bind ever so slightly, does not matter how much collective is applied. I've looked at raptor technique and went through all the steps I thought maybe a picture would be worth a thousand words but did not help.

if you can't beat em, sneak up from behind..

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01-28-2007 06:05 PM  10 years agoPost 15
bustedmp

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Shamokin, PA

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Start unhooming 1 link at a time until you find which one is causing your binding. It may very well be more than 1 causing your problem. If you unhook 1 and it doesn't chage at all, put that one back on. When I reassembled my raptor I had a binding that I didn't have before. At the rear of the pitch control arm where the bearings go that support the elevator pivot pushed the control arm against the side frames. I took a flat screw driver and gently seated the bearings in the arm.

The world is yours!

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01-28-2007 08:18 PM  10 years agoPost 16
jbock24

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Loveland, Ohio USA

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Heres a troubling thing, it's gone. Its troubling because I did not fix it it just went away. Now what? hope for the best and plan on the worst.
I think alot of ground testing is next. Gremlins do exist???

if you can't beat em, sneak up from behind..

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HelicopterMain Discussion › Mavrikk ball link ends question
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