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HelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator › Gear mesh noise?? on my Hawk...suggestions
01-26-2007 03:14 PM  10 years agoPost 1
DocYates

rrNovice

Florence, AL

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I have a new Hawk Pro which I assembled and started flying at Christmas. This is my first heli in a long time, trying to convert myself over from airplanes, and boy it is hard....LOL
Last week I had a blade strike, heli leaned over on me and I broke a set of blades. I went over the heli real good and other than a broken tail fin, and set of main blades, the only other thing I found was two missing teeth on the main gear. I ordered a new main gear, and went over all the others to make sure they were not damaged. Last night I broke down the heli and put the new main gear on the shaft. I reassembled the heli, making sure that everything was lined back up like it should, it is hard to get it wrong I believe. I have not started the engine, but here is the problem, when you rotate the head the gearing "sounds" different than before. Maybe it is just me, but it seems more "rough" and like the gears are not meshing like they should. Where are the adjustments that can be made, or is there something that I am overlooking? Maybe I am thinking too much about it, but I also have a Raven, not flown it yet, and the gearing on it does not appear to be as coarse at this. Is there something in the form of an upgrade I should try before I fly this heli again? It is possible to reassemble the main gear assembly wrong?
Thanks, sorry for all the questions but I am an RC veteran/Heli noobie that needs someone to hold my hand right now.
Tommy

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01-26-2007 03:46 PM  10 years agoPost 2
DR350s

rrNovice

Quebec, Canada

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As the manual say, did you: "While pushing down on the main shaft, push the mast stopper against the upper ball bearing, apply threadlock to the set screws and tighten in place"

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01-26-2007 03:49 PM  10 years agoPost 3
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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Tommy,

I would advise to first, go back and double check all the shafts and the blade grip bearings in the head. Pay special attention to the main shaft, and the feathering shaft...they all like to bend in even the slightest blade strike.

About the gear mesh...what you are experinceing sounds like a tight fit between the crown and TR pinion. Sometimes even a main gear will have a little runout in that it is higher on one side than the other. You can sometimes change the installation of the gear 180 degrees and improve it if is runout. As you know, these gears are plasic and also lend themselfs well to some "manual manipulation", in that you can actually bend them by hand and they will take a set. If it's not too bad, it will also "run in".

I would also double check the tail rotor gears, as they usually fail before the crown gear.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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01-26-2007 07:04 PM  10 years agoPost 4
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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check your pinion gear that drives your torque tube, it could be dirty or have a piece of plastic stuck between it's teeth..

Jim

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz

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01-26-2007 10:23 PM  10 years agoPost 5
Lefty and Leroy

rrApprentice

Temple, Texas

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You broke a set of blades.

...slightly off topic but I would be willing to bet you have a bent
feathering shaft too. That would part #HW3180

See pg. 12 of your manual.

-Jim

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01-26-2007 11:49 PM  10 years agoPost 6
Ts8103

rrVeteran

Baltimore, Maryland

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I would also check the bearings and the fit on the counter gear assembly. When I had noise in my main gear it would up being the bearing and shaft on the counter gear. This coul also acount for the two broken teeth.
Tone

Team Outrage
YS engines
Switchglo
Baltimore Boyz

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01-27-2007 02:23 AM  10 years agoPost 7
perfesser zero

rrKey Veteran

Dublin, VA., USA

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Bent...???

I will guarantee you that you've bent the spindle shaft (feathering shaft) as I did the same thing once and figured that it was OK. I checked it and yep...BENT! Once I got it out it looked like an "S" curve. Take my word...replace it.

Later...

Scott!

Tiger 50 - OS 50SX-H
Hawk Sport - OS 37SZ-H
Raptor 30 - OS 37SZ-H
JR 10X/R950S

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01-27-2007 03:50 AM  10 years agoPost 8
catzazz

rrApprentice

Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

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just check the spindle, put a socket on the nut and turn it. You will see the blade grips wobble around if its bent...

Blade strike will always bend spindles.

Cheers, Mark M,
http://www.pdqflyers.com

Fly like you borrowed it!! Land like you stole it!! visit www.virc.ca

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01-27-2007 09:35 PM  10 years agoPost 9
DocYates

rrNovice

Florence, AL

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You guys are all right....but one more question

I checked almost everything you guys recommended, of course the feathering shaft is bent, something I obviously overlooked, but the real noise I was referring to was obviously run-out on the small gear underneath the main gear. I went back, took it apart and as I put it back together made sure everything lined up right. The noise and roughness are gone. One thing I am still seeing though is that when I start the heli engine and increase power, the clutch engages and the main gear starts to spin, Tail rotor has not problems, I checked those gears and it is rotating fine, but the head speed does not come up, it is like the main gear is spinning but gets no traction on the shaft. The main gear has the bearing in the center for autorotations. Again, what have I missed since I need to order a feather shaft and some other things as well??
Any ideas for me?
Tommy

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01-27-2007 09:53 PM  10 years agoPost 10
Lefty and Leroy

rrApprentice

Temple, Texas

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The bearing in the center of your main gear in installed backwards. You should be able to turn the main gear (by hand) clockwise and the blades will turn. You should be able to turn the main blades clockwise and the main gear not turn.

-Jim

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01-27-2007 10:29 PM  10 years agoPost 11
catzazz

rrApprentice

Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

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"Yup" Lefty and Leroy got it!

You have installed the one-way bearing upside down.. Pull the mainshaft up to get the main gear out and put the one-way bearing back in the gear the opposite way...

You may also want to check the rubber dampers, they sometimes get cuts or tears after a crash or boom strike... As cheap as they are you may want to get a new set of red ones to make the cyclic and pitch more crisp. But you will have to run a higher head speed with the red dampers otherwise you will get a wobble...

Cheers, Mark M,
http://www.pdqflyers.com

Fly like you borrowed it!! Land like you stole it!! visit www.virc.ca

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01-28-2007 02:27 AM  10 years agoPost 12
DocYates

rrNovice

Florence, AL

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Geesh...

You guys are good, want to come over to my house and help. I have built this thing 4 times this weekend and still did not realize you could get that darn brearing in backwards. Oh well, 5th time is the charm, live and learn...LOL
One thing about it these helis is there is a hell of a learning curve and if you don't like to work on things, you better stick with something else.
Thanks again guys.
Tommy

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01-28-2007 03:59 AM  10 years agoPost 13
Lefty and Leroy

rrApprentice

Temple, Texas

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Last night I broke down the heli and put the new main gear on the shaft.
You don’t have to take the helicopter apart to change the main gear; it can be removed in about five minutes. It’s not a bad idea to have a couple of extras on hand either. Once you pull the main shaft you can wiggle the main gear out through the side. It takes a little wiggling but it will come out. When you turn over the one-way bearing, make sure you get that snap ring in the grove correctly or you’ll have another problem.
One thing about it these helis is there is a hell of a learning curve and if you don't like to work on things, you better stick with something else.
Just think… the fun is just starting.

-Jim

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01-28-2007 01:50 PM  10 years agoPost 14
DocYates

rrNovice

Florence, AL

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JIm, in order top pull out the main gear, I have to remove the snap ring from the bottom of the gear which holds the bearing in place and I cannot get to it, I have tried and tried and don't seem to be able to figure out how to do it without removing the side frames and pulling out the engine. Call me a d*&H@$$ but for the life of me it will not work free. You have to remove the bottom clip for the shaft to slide up and I cannot get to it. I also have a Raven which is ready to go, so until I get this one back in the air, I will fly it. I was having to much fun with the Hawk till I screwed it up, I am sure you guys wouldn't know anything about that huh?...LOL
If you could elaborate more or explain to me what I am doing wrong in removing the shaft I would appreciate it, like I said, am a noob so anything you tell me is something I probably don't know.
Thanks
Tommy

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01-28-2007 01:58 PM  10 years agoPost 15
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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Tommy,

You do not have to remove the snap ring, just remove the bottom Jesus bolt, loosen the retainer ring, disconnect all the control rods, and slide the main shaft, swash, washout, rotor head and all, out the top. Then you can remove the main gear along with the autorotation clutch, out the side.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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01-28-2007 03:48 PM  10 years agoPost 16
DR350s

rrNovice

Quebec, Canada

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I also use this method to remove the main gear.

I remember having hard time trying to remove the main gear out the right side of the Heli.

For me, it was easier to remove it out the left side.

Did you try both side ?

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01-28-2007 06:04 PM  10 years agoPost 17
catzazz

rrApprentice

Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

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Just do what SteveH has described for removing the main shaft ect....

Make sure that the tail is blades are clear they may have wiggle a bit to get the main gear out from under the tail input gear...

It will be a tight fit and may require a-bit of fussing but the main gear will pop out the left side easier then the right side...

I never split the frames on my Heli's to get he main gear out, The only reason that I have removed the side frames while working on my heli was to replace a spit fuel tank...

Cheers, Mark M,

http://www.pdqflyers.com

Fly like you borrowed it!! Land like you stole it!! visit www.virc.ca

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01-29-2007 01:17 PM  10 years agoPost 18
DocYates

rrNovice

Florence, AL

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Thanks again

You guys could have saved me a half days work, if I had only askled to begin with. I did just what you said and had the bearing turned around and back in in about 5 minutes. Why I did not see this to begin with is beyond me, I guess I just figured it could not come out. I have ordered a couple of spare gears and some feathering shafts. I already had a good supply of parts from when I purchased this stuff, but I guess those items being the more commonly used just didn't make it to the pile.
You guys are a wealth of information. I appreciate the help.
Tommy

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01-29-2007 02:04 PM  10 years agoPost 19
pschurter

rrApprentice

La Serena - Chile

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I had the same "rough" gear noise once. What happened was that the counter gear pinion was colliding with the inside of the main gear, due to poor assembly. Assembled it correctly and the noise was gone.

Good flight, good night!

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HelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator › Gear mesh noise?? on my Hawk...suggestions
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