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Other › How hot does your main motor get?
01-25-2007 10:34 PM  10 years agoPost 1
RaptorBee

rrApprentice

Minnesota

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I have noticed recently that my (standard) main motor gets really hot - too hot to touch, after a 10 minute hover. I have 2 heatsinks on the motor, and am not doing anything aggressive in terms of flying.
Coupled with this it seems that after the first minute or so the climbout performance reduces, almost to the point of bogging down the motor. My batteries (11.1v 3s Li-Po 1350mAh) are also hot on landing.

Anyone have any experience of this? Is it time for a new motor or 4in1, or time to balance my batteries?

Thanks for any insights.

RaptorBee

T-Rex 550E Flybar
T-Rex 450SE
E325 Mini Titan

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01-25-2007 10:45 PM  10 years agoPost 2
futuramille

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SC USA

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Yup, they tend to get rather toasty. The battery getting hot is another point. I'd say they get warm but not hot. One of the issues with stock brushed motor heli's is having to stop after a few minutes (before the battery is done) and let the motor cool. You can certainly shorten the life of a motor if you get it real hot and keep running it like that.

There are a couple things that can be done to help keep things cool...besides heat syncs.

Make sure the gear mesh between the main gear and pinion is nice and loose. A standard piece of paper should be able to fit between the gears.

A well ballanced rotor (blades, paddles) also helps. This also means well aligned blades and paddles eg. you can have a paddle not aligned with the flybar carier and then trim it out...but it takes more power from the motor to run a heli thats not setup well.

Just a few suggestions.

happy flying,



------------------------------
.....I need more batteries!!!

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01-25-2007 11:02 PM  10 years agoPost 3
RaptorBee

rrApprentice

Minnesota

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Thanks Futuramille,

I guess you are an Aprilia fan by your name. Never had one as I was always a Japanese bike guy (GSXR's, CBR-R's etc). Finally hung up my helmet last year as Minnesota has nowhere fun to ride - I did most of my riding in the UK.

I think part of my motor heating is that until recently I couldn't even hover for 2 minutes, let alone 10, so know I notice the heat! I am pretty anal about setup so the balance and flybar alignment is not an issue.
I have read mixed reviews on going brushless - better performance for aerobatics and 3D (which I am mowhere close to needing) vs. reduced flight times (which would be bad for me at my stage of development).

I guess I will just need to rest the motor every few minutes.

Thanks again.

RaptorBee

T-Rex 550E Flybar
T-Rex 450SE
E325 Mini Titan

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01-25-2007 11:55 PM  10 years agoPost 4
Splatcat

rrApprentice

Shandon, CA USA

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Hot Motor

Hey, Raptor Bee. My motor does get warm with my 1250 lipo but not to hot to touch after 10 mins. Ambient air is about 40-60 F when I'm flying outside. Indoors just hovering around it gets warmer but not hot to touch. More like my brain tells my finger "not to stay on here". It stays much cooler with the stock 800 lipo after 10 mins inside or outside. I wonder if the weight of the 1250 is over-working my stock motor. I know when I'm flying the helicopter it holds elevation with ease with the 800 and is very snappy to inputs. When using the 1250 it yo-yo's more and requires more throttle(cyclic). More sluggish. I only have the two batteries now in the future I think I will be looking in 900 mah range. I do try to keep my flight times to 10 mins. So when it 100+ here in the summer time I can be disciplined. Oh yes, neither of my batteries gets more than the low side of warm. They feel the same temp after a flight depending on what I am doing. Whish I had or new some with a temp gauge so I could tell you exactly.

Dear God, please let it set down just as it took off. Amen.

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01-26-2007 12:02 AM  10 years agoPost 5
Splatcat

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Shandon, CA USA

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Sorry

I just saw that you have a Belt CP and not a motor driven tail. No way of giving you a good comparison.

Dear God, please let it set down just as it took off. Amen.

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01-26-2007 12:45 AM  10 years agoPost 6
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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Is your pitch set to 0 at mid stick??? having to much pitch and not enough throttle will overheat a motor fast..... A lot of new guys try to set it up so they can hover at mid stick, the motor will allow the heli to hover barely but over heat..

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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01-26-2007 01:11 AM  10 years agoPost 7
RaptorBee

rrApprentice

Minnesota

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Splatcat,

I do have a Belt CP, but also a HoneyBee CP2 which is the same as a Blade CPP (more or less). So your answer was relevant.

Thanks

RaptorBee

T-Rex 550E Flybar
T-Rex 450SE
E325 Mini Titan

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01-26-2007 01:13 AM  10 years agoPost 8
RaptorBee

rrApprentice

Minnesota

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Slider,

Good point. Maybe this will be my incentive to finally (FINALLY I hear you say!) buy a pitch gauge. Everything so far has been based on 'feel'. I always knew I would need one. I wonder if I can get one which works on 600mm Raptor blades and 255mm CP2 ones?

RaptorBee

T-Rex 550E Flybar
T-Rex 450SE
E325 Mini Titan

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01-26-2007 01:41 AM  10 years agoPost 9
Gino CP

rrKey Veteran

Philippines

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I am more concerned with why you lose climbing power.Check your pitch, motors, and battery.

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01-26-2007 01:54 AM  10 years agoPost 10
Dirk Pitt

rrNovice

LI, NY

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Motor Life?

My Blade just started to loose power big time tonight also. After 10 min of hovering I can't get it off the ground and the motor is too hot to touch. A minute of rest and another minute of flight. During the last 2 batteries I noticed a high pitched whine noise. Took it apart and every thing moves freely. Pitch and gear mesh on the money. Different battery same results.

By my best guestimates I have over 12 hrs on the bird. Any ideas of what the life expectancy of a brushed motor is?

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01-26-2007 01:55 AM  10 years agoPost 11
futuramille

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SC USA

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Good one Raptorbee! yup....Aprilia
Here in SC I'm just a quick ride from the blue ridge parkway and a ton of great mountain ride in NC. Weather is fair year round. Much better riding than when I lived in Wyoming and Montana.

Good luck with that heli!



------------------------------
.....I need more batteries!!!

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01-26-2007 02:13 AM  10 years agoPost 12
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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Dirk replace the main motor, it's probably way over due if you can't get it off the ground without overheating.. and 12 hrs is about all your going to get with the brushed motor....

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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01-26-2007 02:24 AM  10 years agoPost 13
Gino CP

rrKey Veteran

Philippines

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I average 20 hours for the main motor, 10 hours for the tail. But I've had premature motor failures too so 12 hours may be enough to kill them.

I suspect a motor that is used for hovering only runs hotter. My heli's motors run cooler when I have forward flights. The rotorwash alone is not as effective for cooling.

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01-26-2007 02:48 AM  10 years agoPost 14
Splatcat

rrApprentice

Shandon, CA USA

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Hot motor.

Thanks for the relpy RaptorBee. Talking about that high pitched whine makes me a little worried. I was trying to blame it on my alum. swash. Rats. Slider46 I went down the path of mid stick departure and I am now glad I found my way back a few weeks ago(EFlite gauge $14 @ LHS). Very happy at zero. A little breeze before and I would ground it(Oh yea I had that "It's so high and far out I'll never get it back..not to mention in 1 piece". Now I idle up and surf. Thanks to everyone in this forum for all of their helpfull coments.

Dear God, please let it set down just as it took off. Amen.

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01-26-2007 03:05 AM  10 years agoPost 15
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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Splatcat I think that is the biggest problem everyone has is the brain click that something happened that you didn't expect and the first reaction is to get the heli back to the ground, when in fact you should just fly on thru and bring it back when your really ready to.... I know it took me a while to get over doing that, If my flip didn't come out like I had figured it to I just move on to the next move. It will come down on it's own when it's ready....LOL

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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01-26-2007 03:18 AM  10 years agoPost 16
Splatcat

rrApprentice

Shandon, CA USA

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Click

Slider 46 I could not agree more. Every time that I have hurt the heli is becuase: I freaked out, gave up, or thought cyclic down would minimize the damage. As you know that is DEAD wrong. I'm not doing any flips but, I won't be getting any Christmas cards from pockets of air that I've committed random acts of rotor blade violence on. My heli does not mind though, so my conscious is clear.

Dear God, please let it set down just as it took off. Amen.

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01-26-2007 04:13 AM  10 years agoPost 17
turboomni

rrProfessor

East of the Equator

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I have 2 heatsinks on the motor, and am not doing anything aggressive in terms of flying
Yes you are doing something aggressive,,you are hovering! As you move into forward flight your heli will become a far more efficient machine and not require every last drop of power as when hovering.
The problems could be a worn out motor. Yes they wear out but they wear out faster when loaded up with too high pitch and not enough throttle + cooling
Setup high throttle with low pitch and lower weight and it will help with the stock motors.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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01-26-2007 02:45 PM  10 years agoPost 18
RaptorBee

rrApprentice

Minnesota

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Thanks for all of your replies. I think I'll get myself a new main motor today as it sounds like I will need it soon enough anyway. I assume that E-sky and E-flight motors are the same as I can get a Blade motor at my LHS?
I couldn't agree more about flying through errors rather than dumping it on the ground. My crashes are now few and far between now I can recover and keep flying. Now I only pull the stick all the way back if I am going to hit the wall or the furniture. Only 4 months till spring!!!

RaptorBee

T-Rex 550E Flybar
T-Rex 450SE
E325 Mini Titan

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01-26-2007 06:33 PM  10 years agoPost 19
BikeNBoatN

rrVeteran

Santa Ana, CA USA

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The other thing you can do to help cooling is to add a few cooling holes to the canopy. I use the cone-shaped stone with a dremel to make holes in my canopy. Makes smoother edges instead of drills or knives.

I've got a row of 4 holes running down the middle of the windshield "glass", a couple more on the sides up near the motor, and a few more on the bottom of the nose for cooling the lipo. And the large pink GWS heat sink covers much more of the motor can than the little blue EFlite heat sinks. Just be sure that you don't cover up the motor vent holes with your heat sinks.

Brent
Slow and Smooth 2-D Scale Flyer
AMA #35431

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01-27-2007 11:22 PM  10 years agoPost 20
RaptorBee

rrApprentice

Minnesota

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Update - heli was too heavy

Well, I put a new motor in (8t Blade motor replaced 9t CP2 motor) and didn't notice any difference. So I started to wonder if my CP2 was too heavy with the Superskids upgrade, the dual tail motors, a 1300mAh battery and all of the other stuff I have added to it over the months.

So, I removed:

Tail support struts and horizontal fin
2 main motor heat sinks
2 tail motor heat sinks
1 plastic battery tray
3 elastic bands
2 tie wraps

I put a new set of blades on (for maximum possible efficiency) and gave it a whirl - problem solved!

Climb out is now really quick, without bogging. Hover is more stable, and easier to control. Motor is warm after 5 minutes of flight, but not unbearably hot.

I am actually thinking about going back to standard landing skids now to save even more weight, and maybe getting a 910mAh battery as well. The extra performance makes me love this little heli again.

As an aside, I aslo got the Revo-mixing on my Futaba 7CHP dialled in and tail drift during hard climb out is now (almost) a thing of the past.

Hope this helps anyone else with similar problems.

RaptorBee

T-Rex 550E Flybar
T-Rex 450SE
E325 Mini Titan

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