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Other › CX2: cant keep tail locked
01-23-2007 03:04 PM  10 years agoPost 1
STANG KILLA SS

rrApprentice

KILLEEN TX

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always wanted to drift left and right. we spent 5 packs tweaking the proportional and radio trim. never could get it locked.
it would change several times in the flight. we would go from full left trim to full right in the same flight, changing several times, with it actually locking straight a few times in between. and long before the battery was going dead(tail always will drift at end of flight)

some things we noticed:

1. controls are VERY VERY slow. youve got to give full throw on swash and rudder to get any input

2. tail wont stay put. drifts lefts left or right. not matter how much you adjust. YET tail is VERY positive. but wont stay straight

3. piroettes are VERY slow one direction, i and VERY fast the other. i assume this is because the top set of blades is way heavier (flybar)

4. radio trims (especially for rudder) are NOT sensitive at all. youve got to move them ALOT (usually fully slammed one way. to even get ANY responce.

5. every control was very dulled/sluggish. swash plate movements and rudder movement requires nearly full throw to get any action. 4n1 pots arent sensitive.

however VERY stable and smooth heli. if we can get the tail to stay put then this thing will be great. weird part is was inconsistant. would change during flight. ALOT. trims would not be enough to fix it.(agian because there so dulled up.)

any ideas on keeping the tail locked?

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01-23-2007 08:42 PM  10 years agoPost 2
Brett Sumpter

rrNovice

Roswell, GA

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Mine pirouettes at over 360 degrees a second for what it's worth - I did turn down the gyro gain a bit, just personal preference. And it's pretty close to the same in either direction, close enough that I can't tell a difference anyways.

It took a few small proportion pot adjustments on the 4 in 1 to get it right, no big deal. I cut the flybar down a bit & moved the servo links out to the middle holes to get quite a bit more control authority, you do give up some stability though.

Very little tail trim drift during a pack, but there is some - not enough to run out of trim slider. Without a heading hold gyro it'll never be perfect, it's still pretty darn good on mine though. Better than any non-heading hold gyro helicopter I've ever flown

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01-23-2007 10:39 PM  10 years agoPost 3
oneturboneeded

rrNovice

san diego

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try this link there is a section that talks about this. http://www.dacaur.com/bladecxhelp.html

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01-23-2007 11:36 PM  10 years agoPost 4
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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You need a gy401 gyro on that beast....LOL.. Full seperates and brushless motors

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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01-24-2007 02:33 PM  10 years agoPost 5
STANG KILLA SS

rrApprentice

KILLEEN TX

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well we spent another 4 packs tweaking the pots. still drifts through out the pack. and at times being perfect.

so what we did is get it trimmed perfect (tail locked) with full left rudder trim and the begining of the pack. so that by the 1/2 way to 3/4 way threw the pack you have enough rudder trim (full right) to keep it from spinning too bad. seems to work but a shame we have to do it. the lama 3 was SO locked. until i smoked the 4n1 and the replacement was obviously an older model.

slider a 401 would be useless on a heli withOUT a tail motor or servo. (as far as i know)

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01-24-2007 02:37 PM  10 years agoPost 6
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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I was just kidding with you The gyro setup would probably weigh more than the heli does....

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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01-24-2007 03:31 PM  10 years agoPost 7
oneturboneeded

rrNovice

san diego

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did you try a cooling mod yet??

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01-24-2007 09:52 PM  10 years agoPost 8
STANG KILLA SS

rrApprentice

KILLEEN TX

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gonna try it tonight. but its gonna be useless, cause it does it imideatly like as soon as you lift off with a fresh pack and cold heli. so heat build up is not causing it.

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01-24-2007 10:23 PM  10 years agoPost 9
oneturboneeded

rrNovice

san diego

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true but if it is heat you could set it up and then it would not change during the flight just a thought

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01-25-2007 04:43 PM  10 years agoPost 10
STANG KILLA SS

rrApprentice

KILLEEN TX

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well we removed the case and flew her canopy less. ill be damn if it didnt fix it. MUCH better. tail is locked.
however the piroette rates are still DRASTICALLY different. one way in barely spins (ie you could run around it faster than its spining) and the other way it spins so fast you can barely see it.
not sure whats up with that.

so what happens when summer time comes? if 50* air makes it hot(with the case on) what happens here in texas when its 100* and we want to fly it?

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01-26-2007 04:19 AM  10 years agoPost 11
Mattenzi

rrApprentice

Queen Creek, Arizona

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You have a bad bearing, check it out you will find it.

Mattenzi

if it aint broke, it will be....

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01-26-2007 04:28 AM  10 years agoPost 12
Rob Hair

rrNovice

Waterford, MI

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The heating problem is not with the 4-in-1, its with one or the other of the motors. I proved this on my BCX2 by doing an experiment wherein I put the 4-in-1 in the back of the heli where it couldn't be heated by the motors. Then I flew it with and without the front canopy. Without the canopy the drift was very slight. With the canopy, the drift required over half of the trim range to correct.

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