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Other › Jazz 55-10-32 for Logo 10?
11-26-2006 05:50 PM  11 years agoPost 1
Dakine

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OC, Commifornia

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I'm using a 6 cell for my Logo 10. Do you think I could use the Jazz 55-10-32? It's to only ESC I've got currently in my spare parts box

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11-26-2006 06:09 PM  11 years agoPost 2
Lorents

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Oslo, Norway

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No problems using the 55. You would have to use a BEC or a rx batt but you probably knew that

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11-26-2006 06:10 PM  11 years agoPost 3
DDD

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Bakersfield, CA USA

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I have used the Jazz ESC you are refering to with 6S and a 45-10 motor for over a year now, and have had zero problems with it. My flying style is mild to medium 3D, TP 4200 battery and 8 minute flights. Some recommend to 80 amp version if you're flying hard 3D with 6S.

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11-27-2006 12:52 AM  11 years agoPost 4
Dakine

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OC, Commifornia

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Some recommend to 80 amp version if you're flying hard 3D with 6S.
Hmmm....I had thought the 55-10-32 was a 3D work-horse. Not sure whether my flying still is hard 3D but I do a lot of collective pumping.

I had thought a lot of people are drawing more amps than 55 amps with their 55-10-32 and with no problem.

I also have a Schulze Future 32.55K. I wonder whether this is just as good as the Jazz's 55-10-32. However, the soft start on the Schulze is not as good as the Jazz, IMO.

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11-27-2006 08:27 AM  11 years agoPost 5
OICU812

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Edson, Alberta, Canada

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Higher voltage usually equates to less amperage draw on average, kinda like your big horsepower motors do not have to work as hard to pull your car/truck.... that kind of thinking. Less energy involved to get the headpseed and keep it when you have the voltage. A 55-10-32 can surely take the 80-100 amp spikes, however not for as long of period of time as the 80-6-18. Kontronik developed the 80-6-18 specifically for a 6S cell count and use. The 55-10-32 will work fine, but if you are looking for 6S only setup you may be better down the road with the 80-6-18. Cheers

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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11-27-2006 08:36 AM  11 years agoPost 6
Dakine

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OC, Commifornia

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Less energy involved to get the headpseed and keep it when you have the voltage.
I really love my Logo 10 with the 45-10 on 6S.

I've got two more Logo 10's but I've got two spare Jazz 55-10-32. I can't find the Jazz 80-6-18 anywhere (to purchase).

Hmmm...I should just convert both Logo 10's to 10S using Tango 45-07 and 45-06 (my remaining spare motors). This should Rock N Roll.

Suggestions?

Or, where to buy the Jazz 80-6-18?

Thanks!

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11-27-2006 09:03 AM  11 years agoPost 7
OICU812

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Edson, Alberta, Canada

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Tony, here you go man.

3/4 ways down on page

http://www.revolutionmodels.co.uk/a...ntronik_63.html

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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11-27-2006 09:55 AM  11 years agoPost 8
Reesy

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In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

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Tony
You don't say what motor you use but you should be 100% fine with the 55-10-32
Buy yourself a WattsUp (good insurance against flattening the batts) and check your max amps

My L10 streched flies on 8s2p 45-10 55-10-32 and the controller stays stone cold and power is nutty

Also you might get away without a seperate Bec it won't initialise if the batts are hot of the charger but mine worked fine (in my old Eolo on 6S) if I gave it a minute for the batts to settle down.

Kontornik are pretty conservative with their ratings and going for an 80amp controller in the modern era? you just know it ain't right

Paul

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11-27-2006 10:20 AM  11 years agoPost 9
OICU812

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Edson, Alberta, Canada

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Well yes realistically the 55-10-32 should be fine.

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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11-27-2006 10:33 AM  11 years agoPost 10
Lorents

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Oslo, Norway

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You are all right - the 55 will work fine, but the 80 has the little extra if your pack can handle it

I like the idea of a L10 on 10S though. There was a post a while ago about one flying it on 12S using lipos from his trex 450 in series. Just slap on the .7 main gear and tail input gear first...

Edit: found it:
http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/.../?highlight=12S

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11-27-2006 04:59 PM  11 years agoPost 11
Dakine

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OC, Commifornia

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Thanks Shawn! Hopefully I could find a supplier in the states.

Reesy,

I'm using a Tango 45-10 with the 20T pinion running 6S1P Evo 3300 and/or 3700 mah (20C).

Thanks for the info Lorents!

I'll give the 10S a try. Will use mod .07 with 140 main. Using 45-06 or the other option is 45-07. I've got both motors to try. What's a tail input gear? Do I have to change the tail gear ratio when running 10S? Or can I just use the stock Logo 10 tail and gearing? Is Logo 14 tail gear different than a Logo 10? Is it better to use the Logo 14 gearing when using 10S on the Logo 10?

Thanks

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11-29-2006 09:16 PM  11 years agoPost 12
maxpower097

rrApprentice

none

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I got a tango 45 10 from this guy for $230 shipped he also said he could get me a JAZZ 55 10 32 for $230 shipped. He has to order high end stuff be he gets it in 3 days and you usually get it in a week. He will cut a deal on anything over $150 and he has a hobby shop in NY. his name is Nadir. This guy was one of my prized finds.
centralhobbyzone@yahoo.com

thanks
maxpower097@yahoo.com

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11-29-2006 09:24 PM  11 years agoPost 13
Lorents

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Oslo, Norway

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Sorry, missed your question Tony! The tail input gear (not sure if thats the real name) is the black gear/belt pulley on the tail boom that goes into the main gear. If you want to use the beefier .7 gear you would have to change this one too to a .7 gear. The gear ratio is the same

Thanks for the Tango/Jazz tip maxpower097.

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11-29-2006 10:48 PM  11 years agoPost 14
Dakine

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OC, Commifornia

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Thanks Lorents!

I'm using the Logo 14 frame for my 10S set up but, I've changed to the shorter Logo 10 boom and belt. Everything from the tail gear to the tail assembly remained using Logo 14 parts.

The main gear I'm using is 138T. The pinion is .7 mod 12T. Motor is Tango 45-07. Using 10S1P Evo. 500mm main blades. Logo 10 head.

Question:

Would I need to change the main tail gear from 200 down to 138T? I think stock is 200T.

Confusing but it will be one bad a$$ 10S Logo 10 with a driven tail.

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11-29-2006 11:50 PM  11 years agoPost 15
OICU812

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Edson, Alberta, Canada

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You could change the bottom gear out to a #3000 main gear as well tony for more robust setup, you will have to accomadate it by also using the Logo 20 front tail pulley as well with mod 0.7 gearing ratio and tooth spread...Either way is good.

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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11-30-2006 08:22 AM  11 years agoPost 16
Dakine

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OC, Commifornia

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Thanks Shawn!

She'll take flight this Friday

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11-30-2006 08:43 AM  11 years agoPost 17
OICU812

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Edson, Alberta, Canada

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Tony if you need help just call me man, I can likely help walk through just about all you need in a few mins. Let us know how it goes!

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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11-30-2006 03:35 PM  11 years agoPost 18
Dakine

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OC, Commifornia

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Tony if you need help just call me man
Thanks!!! I surely will!

But, if we've got freezing weather at 60°F tomorrow, then I might be grounded and won't be able to test fly until our cold blizzard passes

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11-30-2006 04:40 PM  11 years agoPost 19
Dakine

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OC, Commifornia

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Shawn,

Could you PM me your cell number again? (I couldn't find your number in the men's restroom this morning ).

Quick question:

Would the tail still hold if I use the 200T bottom gear with the Logo 14's front tail pulley? Reminder, my set up: the top main gear is 138T (mod 0.7), and the bottom gear is 200T with the Logo 14's tail pulley (mod 0.5). Would the tail hold? What is the advantage using a 138T bottom gear and Logo 20's pulley (mod 0.7)?

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