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HelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › Engine Break-In
11-27-2006 12:15 AM  11 years agoPost 21
AceBird

rrElite Veteran

Utica, NY USA

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I use mineral oil for breaking in and it works well for me but I am very impatient as I am a commercial AP user so any shortcut that works is good for me.
Paul,
Maybe I shouldn't tell you this but on the racing circuit the old timers used to put borax right down the carb of a running engine to get an instant break in. They would hold a scoup in their hand and let is sift down through the carb a little at a time. It caused the RPM to decay suddenly and then pick up. When they didn't get an increase (total) in rpm they stopped. That meant they were good to go peddle to the metal. Of course these were four cycle engines so you wouldn't want to put it down the carb on a two cycle or you will kill your bearings. But I don't see why you couldn't mix some borax in motor oil, remove the plug and pour a little on top of the piston while you drove the crank with an electric motor. The problem is I don't know how long to run it like this. I would guess a couple of hours but as I say, I don't know.

If you try something like this, keep records so you can share it with the forum. People are always looking for a way to short circuit the break in process, you're not alone.

Oh and BTW I think in most cases the ring is harder than the cylinder wall so it is the cylinder that is getting the honing (breaking in) not the ring.

Ace
What could be more fun?

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11-27-2006 04:27 AM  11 years agoPost 22
Chopper Man100

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Canton GA.

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Wow Acebird, that is a super old trick. I remember that one. There use to be an old Ford or Chevy engine that would refuse to break in, I am talking real old, like somewhere in the 1950's. My brother which has been into cars forever told me years ago that they had to do the borax trick back then to get that particular engine to break in. I don't remember the details but I do remember the borax story he told me.

cw

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11-27-2006 12:24 PM  11 years agoPost 23
FCM

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Surrey, England

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Its okay to tell me about it Ace but it's another thing to expect me to try it

The ring should be softer than the bore on our engines as the bore is hard chrome plated and ring is that ductile iron stuff. You can see the wear on the ring as it beds in although in time of ocurse, the bore is gonna go the same way and will wear beyond limits.

That is a really powerful engine from TRM you have their Andrew - no wonder John is telling you to open those needles right up like that! Let us know how get on and like it once its broken in.

Paul.

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11-27-2006 01:48 PM  11 years agoPost 24
asong26

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VA

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I will Paul,

Believe it or not, I have several expert friends here on RR helping me to keep an eye on the engine to see just how powerful it will become. I'll keep you all posted.

I am not sure if smoothness and power go hand in hand, but my engine is very smooth. I am very please with Toxic Al's work.

In that last post from John, he stated 2 full turns for the High (which makes sense), and 1 2/8 for low. I just want to confirm with him that this is not a typo. I wonder if he meant 1 3/8 for the low.

Andrew

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11-27-2006 10:49 PM  11 years agoPost 25
asong26

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VA

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Idle Screw...

I started up the engine today, but something is still not right. The engine will not start unless the throttle is at quarter stick. I thought this was may be due the throttle arm slipping or something, but they are tight as can be, and with throttle arm moving from 0 to 100, you can see the venturi moving accordingly.

When I first got the engine, the engine would start up with 8% throttle. What could have gone wrong? Does the idle screw have anything to do with this?

Also, does the idle screw affect the engine bogging itself down? To clarify, this is the symptom that I had before where if I spool up the motor, above 50% throttle, the engine would bring itself down to about 30% throttle.

Has anyone ever experienced anything like this? Here are my settings to clear things up. Could it be the idle screw?

Low Needle: 1 3/8
High Needle: 1 3/8

2.3 oz Amsoil w/ Ozark Camper Fuel.

Andrew

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11-27-2006 11:51 PM  11 years agoPost 26
asong26

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VA

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I just spoke with Al@ Toxic Motor Racing. I went through the engine as much as possible with him on the phone. My pistons look great, and everything else is just fine. It may be a faulty carb....

Andrew

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11-28-2006 06:31 AM  11 years agoPost 27
asong26

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VA

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I think I may have a theory as to what is happening.

I've double checked the Throttle arm again on the carb. Everything still looked ok. On a hunch, I took out the set screw of the throttle arm. When the set screw was out, the throttle arm sat down farther. In other words, for some reason my throttle arm was a bit 'lifted'. So I've replaced the set screw with a short M3 socket cap screw based on recommendation from Disciple4123. Using the M3 bolt, I was able to tighten the throttle arm much better.

My theory is that the throttle arm was slipping at a higher rev, and when I check check the arm (with the engine either on idle, or off), the set screw had just enough grip to move the venturi to trick me into thinking that everything is working fine. And of course, with the higher rev / vibes, the venturi arm would slip.

Using the M3 bolts and added tightness, There is no way this thing can slip now. I am going to rev up the engine, again tomorrow to see if this problem has gone away.

Wish me luck.

Andrew

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11-28-2006 09:52 PM  11 years agoPost 28
asong26

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VA

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Wasn't the arm either... Still a problem. I spoke to Al at TRM, he asked me to send the engine back right away, and promised a very fast turn around. It could be a faulty carb.

Andrew

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12-24-2006 01:27 AM  11 years agoPost 29
garaptor

rrApprentice

Atlanta,Ga,usa

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Excessive idle time

Hey guys, Im new and I read the break-in advice. Am I correct this is a glow engine? OK Im not paying attention. This a GAS PAGE. Sorry. sorry wrong forum. Carry on

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01-05-2007 11:57 PM  11 years agoPost 30
asong26

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VA

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This is a gasoline engine, not glow.

Andrew

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01-06-2007 10:37 PM  11 years agoPost 31
garaptor

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Atlanta,Ga,usa

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Im trying to break in a new tt39 heli engine and have about a gallon thru it and suddenly in flight the heli will lose about 100-150 rotor rpm in forward flight and stay that way untill I come to an idle and start over.My fuel line is fairly new, Im running 30 percent fuel with extra synthetic oil for breakin(about 22% oil),the heli is balanced and idles ok(Little rich) . full power climb out is good. Hovering rpm is good. What the heck??? Any ideas? ( Trash in jets...too rich...too much oil...bad glow plug...bad o-rings in carb.....air leak...)??????? any ideas??

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HelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › Engine Break-In
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