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HelicopterMain Discussion › Wood Blades and the limitations
11-22-2006 04:09 AM  11 years agoPost 1
Dood

rrProfessor

Wescanson

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Perhaps I should put this in the blade section, but for maximum exposure:

Everyone knows that you can't do 3D with wood blades.
I havent been flying all that long. Recently started FFF. (it's a little rough, but I am getting there)

I don't have a tachometer, so I am only listening and eyeballing my headspeed. I will get one soon enough, don't worry.

I have a Rappy 30. stock. TT 550mm woodies. Note, I have what may be considered an over-abundance of epoxy at the Roots.

I have been dying to flip this thing. If I could just do a loop or a roll, even some inverted hovering, I will be satisfied for now.

I plan on making the conversion to a Raptor 50 real soon. Whether I will convert to a Titan 50 or a standard 50, I dont know yet.
The problem is, I dont want to invest in CF 550m blades. It would be a waste, since a month from now, I will have no use for them.

Since I have no intention of doing hard 3D (that, and I am not capable of) can I still safely do basic loops and inverts with what I have?

I understand this will be a very debatable topic. I too, have heard some horror stories of blades breaking at the roots and getting thrown. And many guys will chime in about that.

So, of all the Busted wooden blades tell me:

1) What was your Head Speed
2) What sort of Maneuver were you doing when the blade broke

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11-22-2006 04:36 AM  11 years agoPost 2
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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I've said it many times- I run one of my R50's with wood blades all the time. I do loops, rolls, flips and auto's all day long with them. I've used both Mavrikk and TT wood 600mm. I peel back the covering and glue them good with 30min epoxy at the root. I do NOT horse it around really hard and I do keep the headspeed down. Most the time I've heard of people blowing blades it's due to a runaway headspeed and not gluing the roots properly.

With that said, the R30 IMO is an even safer bet. You are running shorter blades meaning less pull on the root and a taller gear ratio meaning less headspeed for a given engine RPM.

I'm with you - get a set of 600mm CF blades, longer belt/boom (go for the Titan part#'s) and put them on once you have a 50 size engine. meanwhile run the 30 as-is. btw, you might just go for the 8.7 gears instead of the standard R50 8.5 gears, many like them a bunch. I have not put them on yet but they are waiting on my workbench.

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11-22-2006 05:48 AM  11 years agoPost 3
Dood

rrProfessor

Wescanson

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jschenck,
I expect to get a variance in opinions. I would have flipped my heli yesterday or today had I not read this.

Quote form Gullie667
Although there were some naysayers many people where of the opinion that wood blades where fine. Well, they were WRONG. My helicopter threw a blade while hovering 15ft from me. It destroyed my helicopter and brand new fiberglass EVO Canopy
Now, sure it makes a difference the size of the blade, head speed, how you are flying...

So, is it really OK to do basic aerobatics on a Rappy30 with the Woodies? Any other takers besides jschenck?

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11-22-2006 07:13 AM  11 years agoPost 4
stickyfox

rrKey Veteran

Rochester, NY - US

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Your basic rolls and loops don't put much more strain on the blades than normal flight does. Sloppy first time hovering is probably more stressful. And I read that earlier post in the 'bad advice' thread and thought about it for a long time; if it wasn't safe to fly a nitro bird with wood blades I don't think they'd still be available. Of course all trees don't grow exactly the same and once in a while you can expect to get a weaker-than-normal blade. I don't think that means wooden blades are unsuitable for use. And he was just hovering?

If you want to do flips, snakes, tic-tocs, or funnels, it'd be different, but I don't see why you can't use them for the kind of aero that was going on 20 years ago.

-fox

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11-22-2006 08:51 PM  11 years agoPost 5
oldfart

rrProfessor

Vancouver, Canada

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I am sure there are variences in the performance envelope of wood blades just as there are in composite blades so I can only speek of those I have used and flying mates have used.

I have seen thousands of "flips, snakes, tic-tocs, or funnels" performed by pilots with the skills to do so on Hawk Pro and Swift helis using the stock woodies they come with.

In fact, I have found that some woodies can do so even better then some composite blades!!

Why? Because it is not JUST the material a blade is made of (as there are stiffer woods and softer/more flexible woods, heavier woods and lighter woods, and wood blades made of multi-laminates of various woods)but even more importantly, the airfoils used and the relationship of the center of lift of the chosen airfoils to the chordwise and spanwise center of gravities and the feathering axis of the blade.

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11-22-2006 09:02 PM  11 years agoPost 6
stickyfox

rrKey Veteran

Rochester, NY - US

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The above post about the exploding blade is the first and only complaint I've ever heard about a blade failure in flight. I have heard of two cases of heads exploding though. I'm not saying that I've been around forever and talked to everybody but I do gossip as much as possible when I'm in the stores and I don't hear many people claiming wooden blades are no good for aero.

-fox

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11-22-2006 09:09 PM  11 years agoPost 7
Droid

rrElite Veteran

Deep down in the Southwest- UK

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Problem with wood blades is once you have used glass/carbon you can't go back, the difference is unbelievable.. at least it was when i put my first set of glass sab's on my first 30, the heli flew completely differently!

Quotes may have been changed for my own amusement

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11-22-2006 09:16 PM  11 years agoPost 8
caseyjholmes

rrElite Veteran

Portland, Oregon

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Everyone knows that you can't do 3D with wood blades.
This does not hold true for the smaller align heli's. I Can 3D the snot out of the align 325 pro wood blades at 3000 rpm without a single problem. Done this with many many sets of 325 pro wood now days.. (even though max rec' rpm is 2400)

I used to flip and roll my R30 and R50 on woodies, untill I put a hyper 50 motor in. I then stopped using woods and stayed with carbons. At some point (for every heli) Woodies become more of a danger than a cheap crash part. But up till that point, they usually work on stock setups for rolls and loops.

Be sure to keep them big heli woodies at recomended rpm ranges. It's not worth losing body parts.

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11-22-2006 09:20 PM  11 years agoPost 9
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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when i was still learning i used to do all kinds of stunts with my Nexus 30 with woodies. loops, rolls, inverted flying, ect. but...they aren't the best for it thats all. for a few bucks more i got a set of glass blades, and it was a 100% different helicopter. more stable, tracked better, higher rpm, more lift, everything about the heli was improved. i had to decrease my throttle curves at hover by 30% just to keep the rpm reasonable.
for the best bang for the buck, you cant beat a decent set of glass blades. right now i have them on my Nexus which is now a Bell 222, they are 530mm silver gell coated fiber glass made by Funkey, i highly recommend them, very reasonably priced at about $50 a set.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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