I didn't get that Tip was blaming the AP2000i or the FMA sensor in this case.

Especially following a new install, I can't stress enough the importance of a proper preflight. Like any component on your heli, if it's not performing as expected, you're going to have problems.

Following a range check, I'd like to see everyone activate the stabilization on thier AP2000i and confirm proper swashplate movement. As BurntOffering noted, it probably wouldn't hurt to give the IR sensor a tap or two to check for improper reactions.

I fly my camera heli with the stabilization active at all times. I do a calibration on the ground, go up with 30%, recalibrate if necessary and do the shoot. If something were off, I would spot the rotor disk tilting during spool up. I've never had trouble with my AP2000i.

Also, be sure to move away a fair distance(10 15' if calibrating on the ground or the sensor will detect you and the hover will be off when you lift off the ground.

Mark Webber
wai-rc.com
Spartan RC Distributor
Outrage Helicopters

Exactly, Mark...I didn't blame the AP2000. I simply stated WHAT happened the first time I set it up, then I posted the CAUSE...improper setup.

The only thing I would suggest is stressing the importance of moving the heat source around the IR sensor in the instructions. Under infrared sensor, it says: "tilts away from a heat source such as a hand or hot cup of coffee placed near the sensor." I simply put the heat source up to the sensor, saw that it moved away properly and thought I was ready to go. Had I moved it around the sensor, I would have discovered the problem and reversed the roll stabilization.

As written, RotaryBob had the same problem, but was able to recover and correct it. He is also flying the same heli as me, so maybe it is related to the oreintation of the Logo 10's 120 degree swashplate. It is backwards from the diagram in the manual.

On the bench, my Spartan appears to be functioning properly, but my heli is not flyable to test it. I expect it to work properly and will report back in about a week when I am back in the air.

BTW, Mark...what's the latest on an intertial sensor?

Tip.

..

I want to make myself tottaly clear to you guys. I'm not blaming Angelos, Spartan, or anyone else. The Sensor is made by FMA. I don't know who makes the harness for it. I ordered my sensor from Mark, and he and Angelos BOTH, provided the best possible support possible. I am thrilled with my stabilizer, and Before next summer Mark, I will be ordering another one from you. I am not mad or upset AT ANYONE. But all that being said, and AGAIN, I'm not the only one who has had this problem. What I would like to see is this. If the FMA sensor going to be used for the near future, buy the sensor ahead of time, do this mod, charge an extra 50 bucks, or whatever, PLUS the cost of the sensor, and ship it WITH the stabilizer. Of course I don't know how all this works out with warranty from FMA, the legal ramifications of all that yada yada. No matter, I will be doing this mod on every FMA sensor I buy. I will just sleep better, which is huge if that day, you flip the switch on your sensor, and your heli looks like its going to try to drill a hole to China!

Just got my package from FXaeromodels...that was fast! Hopefully I will get it in the air tomorrow and give the Spartan another shot. The new Mikado carbon fiber blades look great. Way better than the stock woodies.

Fingers crossed.

Tip

..

Burnt Offering,

According to Angelos, he posted a while back that he has up graded the software so a loss of signal or a shorted signal will kick off stabilization. This should mean that what happened to you shouldn't happen anymore.

The key is to have good strain relief on the cable right next to the sensor. Because if you don't the wires can break even at the soldered joints from vibration.

I am not sticking up for FMA's terrible connector but spartan chose to use it so they have to take care of any misgivings. According to Angelos, they have.

Ace
What could be more fun?

What a great failsafe and a great idea, and I mean that. I will upgrade the firmware on my stablizer. That sounds like a killer fix to an already awesome product.

9CHP & Gain/Calibration Control

Hi guys,

I have successfully installed my AP2000i without many issues. A little trouble with the wiring, which was gradually sorted out. Other than that it works very well. The only install item I will change is the sensor cable, and like many others, solder the cable wires directly to the sensor.

One question: I use a 9CHP Super and use the VR-D slider on the left side for gain (CH7). At default the gain is 100% slider full down, and the calibration is a hair below 0% gain at slider full up. I was able to remove calibration by change the ATV's on CH7 to 94/100.

I would now like to designate a switch for calibration (actually switch "F" which is default for IDLEUP 3). Could anyone tell me how I configure the 9CHP and/or the AP2000i to use a switch for the calibration?

I am not very proficient to programming, so if anyone voluteers to respond the explaination should be "kindergarten" level!

Much appreciated - Lachlan

I use a 9C also with ap2000, and I can kindergarten you through it if you can wait till later tonight.

I have to eat and run my son off to swim lessons right now. About 8 or 9 pm eastern I can get back to you.

--Scott

qb7,

You need to create a new mix on your 9CHP.

Switch on your transmitter and keep "Mode/Page" pressed down to go to the "BASIC(HELI)" menu. Press briefly "Mode/Page" again to go to the "ADVANCE(HELI)" menu.

Turn the rotary knob to go to one of the programmable mixes. Choose one that is free. For example "PROG.MIX1"

Press the down arrow twice. You should see page "2/2" of "PROG.MIX1".
Go to "MIX" and change from "INH" to "OFF" (or "ON", depending on the position of the switch).

Go to "MAS" and set it to "AUX1". Go to "SLV" and set it to "AUX1". Go to "LINK" and set it to "OFF". Go to "SW" and set it to "F". "POSI" to "DOWN" and "RATE" "L"=+72%, "H"=0%. "OFFSET" should be at 0%.

You have now created a mix where both the master and the slave are Ch7. The mix is activated when you flick switch F down (i.e. towards the front of the Tx).

Good luck!

Harris

Lachlan

There's a shot of my screens for calibration. I ended up using Program mix6, unlike Harris' suggested Mix 1. Those are the figures I used to get it going.

Mark Webber
wai-rc.com
Spartan RC Distributor
Outrage Helicopters

Thanks for the offer Scott. I am on the other side of the world, so it would have been tough coordinating a time I think; but thank you.

Between Harris's simple and straight forward written instructions, and Mark's pictures, it took all of a minute to program. I just reversed the switch to position down as a personal preference. My first experience with programmable mixes; lots to learn. Guys, thanks tons.

I actually find myself not using the calibration most of the time, but it is a good option to have on a seperate switch.

Mark, I would have emailed you on this one, but I figured you would put out a "Cease & Desist Order" against my email account with all the mail I've sent you! Thanks again.

Lachlan

Mark, I would have emailed you on this one, but I figured you would put out a "Cease & Desist Order" against my email account with all the mail I've sent you!

Lachlan

Feel free at any time. I'm always glad to help getting another stabilized heli in the air!

Mark Webber
wai-rc.com
Spartan RC Distributor
Outrage Helicopters

Ok, here's the update...I rebuilt after the crash, started with gain on 30% and it behaved fine. Switched to 50% and still fine. I think I need to calibrate it though, because it is drifting to the left with sticks centered...but no crazy flips this time! I am getting close.

I rebuilt my cracked canopy out of fiberglass with some side air intake scoops and it is looking sweet. I'll post some pics when it's done. It looks like when I get the Spartan dialed in, it will be great.

Tip

..

Tip

Good news! Get us those pics when you can.

Mark Webber
wai-rc.com
Spartan RC Distributor
Outrage Helicopters

testing one .....two.....

took the logo 10 out for another test flight today and although the system worked it wouldn't stay level in flight I had to give input to keep it level and there for was flying the ship. I noticed that my Trims were not at 0 I had like 40 percent on aileron. I tried to set the arms so that there was 0 trim but for one reason or another the aileron just is off by one or two teeth...LOL

My question is would that make a difference or no matter where the trim is set the flight stabilizer will work with it.

can anyone tell me?

Rotoryrob

Rob

When you are refering to the trim at 40%, do you mean the trim on the AP2000i? Usually a couple clicks of trim on the tx will stop the drift. Do you use the calibration function?

Mark Webber
wai-rc.com
Spartan RC Distributor
Outrage Helicopters

no the ap2000i is in sink with my heli. My heli is out of trim and I mean on the radio one of the servos is off a tooth I think from the other 2 as far as neutral is concerned so I had to move it off center some 40 percent but that is what it took in fact it still needs a little more.

what I was wondering was does the ship need to be set for hands free trim before you incease the gain on the stabilizer. Also does the cold weather affect the sensor at all?

Rotoryrob

Also does the cold weather affect the sensor at all?

Of course it does. It detects heat right?

Ace
What could be more fun?

that was my thought.... could that be causing it to not respond? or can it detect the difference in temp in cold weather too.

Rotoryrob

AceBird,

Strictly speaking, cold by itself does NOT affect infrared sensors to a noticeable degree. You may get a little drift if you go outside until the sensor temperature drops to ambient but that's it!

What DOES affect infrared readings is cloudy weather or flying over water or snow. This reduces the difference between sky and ground infrared temperatures and subsequently the amount of stabilisation produced by the AP2000i.

rotoryrob,

You need to have a perfectly trimmed heli BEFORE using the AP2000i in stabilisation mode. In other words, turn the gain off, trim the heli without any wind and slowly turn the gain back to, say 20-30%. If you notice that the heli drifts to one direction (still without any wind!) then you need to calibrate the infrared sensor.

Harris