I use a four cell nimh 4200mah battery. I like to keep things simple and thus, I don't want to use a regulated system. That's not likely to change.

I fly JR Radios. That's not likely to change either.

So If I'm going to setup a new 3d machine, what are my choices for great ccpm servos?

I have used 9252s with success in the past, but I really don't like the fact that I have to replace the servo connectors. The aftermarket connectors are never as good as the stock ones. Shaving the connector down results in an ugly mess.

So I'm looking for a servo that:

• Isn't Futaba (JR somewhat preferred)
• Stronger than 9252
• Fast
• Operates well on 4.8v

I've been looking around and it appears that 4.8v is pretty much being left behind when it comes to helicopter swash servos.

-Mark

Make small holes in your receiver instead of shaving off the Futaba servo connector.

Not sure I agree that 4.8 volts is being left behind. In any case, I know the 9252s are rated for 4.8 volts but I have been running 5.5V on my Tempest for over a year now and I know of many folks how are also running 5.5 volts on their 9252s without problems.

have you checked out the JR 8311's? it's close to the 9252.

8311:
Type: Digital High-Speed
Torque: 68.6 oz/in @ 4.8v; 83.8 oz/in @ 6.0v
Speed: .15 sec/60 deg @ 4.8v; .12 sec/60 deg @ 6.0v
Dimensions (WxLxH): 0.75"x1.54"x1.36"
Weight: 2.0 oz
Bearing: Dual Ball Bearing
Motor Type: Coreless
Gears: Metal

9252
Speed: .14 sec/60 degrees (based on 4.8V rating)
Torque: 92 oz-in (6.6 kg-cm) (based on 4.8V rating)
Weight: 1.8 oz (50g)
Power Supply: 4.8V (Futaba does not recommend using 6V)
Length: 1.6" (41mm)
Width: .8" (20mm)
Height: 1.5" (38mm)

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

I did look at the 8311 (.18/130) The .18 speed seems slow to me, but I wonder if the extra torque might make up for it.

I know the JR 8317 is the 8311 with the 8417 gearset in it. But with that setup it would be necessary to run 6v to get the required torque. The 8317 is .15/68 at 4.8v.

I would be interested in cutting up my RX if the tab was the problem, but it isn't. The problem is that the Futaba connectors are slightly thicker in both dimensions. Just a few thousandths make all the difference. And even once they are all shaved down, they are very difficult to pull out of the RX.

-Mark

ever think of taking some 600 grit sand paper and rubbing them down a bit?

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

try the JR DZ9000. even at 4.8v, it'll be blazing.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Product...odID=JRPSZ9000S

600 Grit:
Yes, but I never developed a technique that produced good results.

I even tried gently scraping them down with a knife. After a few rounds of that, I got tired of messing with it and snipped off the stock ends and put on some aftermarket ends.

That's the hassle I'm trying to avoid this time around. However if I could get great aftermarket connectors (instead of the generic ones I have now) I may consider going that route again.

-Mark

I would be interested in cutting up my RX if the tab was the problem, but it isn't. The problem is that the Futaba connectors are slightly thicker in both dimensions. Just a few thousandths make all the difference. And even once they are all shaved down, they are very difficult to pull out of the RX.

I would say that was a bonus rather than a negative point!

Quotes may have been changed for my own amusement

Z9000S

Ok, that's something. I know Curtis was using that servo when he was here last month. He was using it in a regulated setup, but I forget the exact voltage.

So I'm trying to guess what the specs would be if I used this servo at 4.8v. Looking at another JR digital servo, I found that there was a 20% loss in speed and torque by going down from 6v to 4.8v. So, and remember this is a non-scientific guess, the specs for the Z9000S might be: .08/102

-Mark

I would say that was a bonus rather than a negative point!

Yeah, it was a good thing, until I needed to pull them back out. I did plenty of damage pulling them out... and some still didn't come out with pliers (slippery little guys) and I finally had to just grab the wire and yank.

My battery wrap is arranged in such a way as the wires would never fall out on their own anyway.

-Mark

That servo is $115 a pop! That's gonna hurt!

The price is high, but I'd pay higher still for something even better. I mean, I buy five servos a year. Compared to everything else: fuel, time, blades, blades, booms, and blades. An extra $150 spent on "better" servos is nothing.

-Mark

my hunch is that they'll cost a bit less

i'm getting 3 KO PROPO DS2123 that have 132oz of torque, and 0.06second transition time.
BUT, since you dont wanna go with a regulated setup, they are no good, they run directly off of 7.2 volts straight from the battery (7.4 directly from a lithium) they are made for car steering. they are about $120 a pop.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

That would be sweet.
If only the 611 would work on 7.4v then I could go for it. Hmm.. Why don't the gyro makers build a regulator into the design of the gyro amp? I would guess/hope that somebody is working on that.

-Mark

they are very sweet i've seen them in action on a number of heli's.
check out "KCT"'s gallery, he has done a nice write up on them, and demonstrates their speed and power. videos included.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

HITEC

Check out HITEC HS6965, HS6975 and HS6985... YOu have your choice in this series of serovs for what you need.

They are not too expensive, great digital servos, excellent specs, reliable, karbonite gears that are hard to strip and don't wear out as fast as others, and they can be programmed for neutral, deadband, etc. with a HITEC programmer. Oh, and the connectors don't need to be modified... For your throttle you can even use a cheaper matched HS6635 also with karbonite gears...

I'm running 6975's on a Freya EVO 90 and 6965's on a CCPM Raven .50 and I have zero complaints so far...

Cheers;
Eric

excellent specs, reliable, Karbonite gears that are hard to strip and don't wear out as fast

oh yeah? well....mine are made from Kryptonite!! i can kill super hero's with my heli!

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

I would REALLY like to see the manufacturer's admit to reality and make servos, receivers, gyros and other flight electronics that are designed to work on 2S lipo WITHOUT a regulator at all.

Power is power. You can get it either by raising the voltage or by pushing more current through your low voltage lines. Personally, I think it makes more sense to just raise the voltage up to what a 2S lipo is putting out and then be able to decrease the current draw for the same performance.

Yes, a "LiPo" line of electronics would be very nice!

-RRRoamer

give it time. i think the 2S lipo power is still a relatively new thing, and the 4.8-5volts has been a standard for a long time. i think if you were to design something specifically FOR 7.4 volts, it may not work....or not well with someone wo still wants to use 4.8 volts. so i think for now it makes sense to keep using 5 volts as a standard until nicads and nimh cells are phased out....which may never even happen.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC