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HelicopterMain Discussion › Lithium battery setups...I'm clueless
11-23-2006 02:44 PM  11 years agoPost 41
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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Thanks John...

So the regulator has a separate charge lead...is this a normal, futaba or jr plug that I can use with existing charge leads? Or would I have to make up a deans or power pole charge lead?

Also, about the Futaba battery checker...would this work with li-ions? It only goes up to 7.2 volts, even though li-ions are 7.4. But I guess when it would get down to 7.0 I would have to charge?

Thanks,
Nathaniel

Nathaniel Rice
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11-23-2006 03:08 PM  11 years agoPost 42
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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P.S. Can someone draw a diagram of the modification to the switch? If its not too hard I might just do that...

And the powerpole connectors are the kind with the 2 separate black and red pieces, that get crimped?

Thanks,
Nathaniel

Nathaniel Rice
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11-23-2006 05:06 PM  11 years agoPost 43
raptorheli2

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rip off britain and no changing it

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your reading far too much into these things. the only difference is the battery and reg in terms of the style of them. the rest of the things that come with it, plugs etc are all NORMAL style plugs and you use your normal charger (li-ion type) to charge the battery.

if you don't want the pin flag then i would get the normal style regulator fromeco make as this uses your normal switch with zero mods needing done and you charge via your normal switch. this combined with a relion will save you some money albeit you lose some features.

the futaba battery checker is perfect for this and indeed, when it says 7v you better charge, that simple. again, your worrying too much, order the things and you'll see your really looking for something that isn't there.

cheers


www.waterfoothelis.com

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11-23-2006 05:21 PM  11 years agoPost 44
SubSailor

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Austin, TX.

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Nathaniel,

Let me try and answer some of these for you;
So the regulator has a separate charge lead...is this a normal, futaba or jr plug that I can use with existing charge leads? Or would I have to make up a deans or power pole charge lead?
Yep, has a it's own charge lead which is a JR plug. The JR plug will work with your existing lead. Now if you want to bypass the regulator and charge directy to the battery then you would need a Deans or Powerpole connector on your charger lead IF you opt for the upgraded wire and plug, which I recommend you do get.
Also, about the Futaba battery checker...would this work with li-ions? It only goes up to 7.2 volts, even though li-ions are 7.4. But I guess when it would get down to 7.0 I would have to charge?
Hmm, good question. I did not know that the Futaba only goes to 7.2V. It should work but I'm not positive on that. Do you already have a Futaba checker? If not you might consider the 8-ball checker that Fromeco has, it works great. Please remember that your "NO FLY" voltage is 7.0V. I'm pretty sure the Futaba will work fine, just don't want to guarantee that.
And the powerpole connectors are the kind with the 2 separate black and red pieces, that get crimped?
Yes sir I believe they are. I've never used Powerpole connectors (I usually use Deans) but I think your correct.
P.S. Can someone draw a diagram of the modification to the switch? If its not too hard I might just do that...
I am a pc dummy so can't draw you a diagram but it's fairly easy to do. The Arizona is designed with a fail safe switch so that should it fail you will not lose power to your heli. What this means is that the switch lead(yellow one) is made for a shorting switch, or a switch that completes a circuit.

If you want to use your switch, you can take your switch and short the output wires together and plug the input wires into the Arizona's switch plug(yellow one) this way when you flip your switch to on there is no short thus allowing your Arizona to power up, and when you flip your switch to off it shorts the circuit and turns the Arizona off. Did I confuse you? I hope not........

John

Fromeco Field Rep.
A day without sunshine is, well.., alot like night time.

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11-23-2006 05:27 PM  11 years agoPost 45
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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Okay I think I understand the switch now...so the output, that would normal go to the rx, gets shorted, and the input, usually connected to the battery, goes to the arizona...right?

I think I will go with the powerpoles...a club member did a presentation on them at our last club meeting and showed their benefits over deans connectors...but I'll think about one of the upgrades in any case.

Raptorheli2 seems confident in the Futaba, and I would be able to use that checker for my other batteries as well...the 8ball is only for lipos/li-ions as I understand...

Thanks guys, I think I know what I'm doing. Can anyone give an estimated # of flights with the 2400 peerless?

Thanks very much for your patience!

Nathaniel

Nathaniel Rice
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11-23-2006 05:30 PM  11 years agoPost 46
raptorheli2

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rip off britain and no changing it

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just to clarify, there is 4 fromeco owners in my club and we all use the futaba checker. have been doing so for about a year now.

you could always use your charger and put it on a 1 amp discharge for a few seconds to save money. i've done this a couple of times when i've forgot to lift my checker.

cheers


www.waterfoothelis.com

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11-23-2006 05:30 PM  11 years agoPost 47
SubSailor

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Austin, TX.

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Nate,
Just a quick note here; don't feel overwhelmed. I promise you once you get this system in your hands, fondle it, and read the instructions you will be fine. It's very simple and easy to use so please don't be discouraged. You'll see.

John

Fromeco Field Rep.
A day without sunshine is, well.., alot like night time.

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11-23-2006 05:37 PM  11 years agoPost 48
SubSailor

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Austin, TX.

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Okay I think I understand the switch now...so the output, that would normal go to the rx, gets shorted, and the input, usually connected to the battery, goes to the arizona...right?
There ya go, you got it! See your receiver will now get it's power from the Arizona not the switch so you no longer have to have a lead going from your switch to your receiver.
Thanks guys, I think I know what I'm doing. Can anyone give an estimated # of flights with the 2400 peerless?
Geez, I've already forgot what heli we were talking about here. Never the less, if it's a 50-60 size your looking at at least 6 flights but most likely more. Keep an eye on your pack with your checker to get an idea of how many you can get away with before you reach the no fly volatage. By the way, yesterday afternoon I saw a Futaba checker in the Electronics classified section for I believe $25.
just to clarify, there is 4 fromeco owners in my club and we all use the futaba checker. have been doing so for about a year now.
Thanks Raptorheli2, glad I know that now.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!!

John

Fromeco Field Rep.
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11-23-2006 09:59 PM  11 years agoPost 49
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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Okay, I got it now!

Just a few more things...
There ya go, you got it! See your receiver will now get it's power from the Arizona not the switch so you no longer have to have a lead going from your switch to your receiver.
Okay, but that still leaves the switch's 3rd lead, the charge lead...does that get removed, or can it remain (NOT to be used of course, I'd used the lead from the arizona).
you could always use your charger and put it on a 1 amp discharge for a few seconds to save money. i've done this a couple of times when i've forgot to lift my checker.
That's a great idea, but I'm not sure that it would work on my Triton. I notice that when I charge a battery, the voltage it displays is always WAY higher than the battery should be...for instance, when charging my current 6V 5cell, it will read 7.93 V or something like that. But maybe it is different for discharge? I will test that out soon, I need to cycle some batteries anyways...

Nathaniel

Nathaniel Rice
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11-24-2006 12:42 AM  11 years agoPost 50
raptorheli2

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rip off britain and no changing it

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this is why you must use regs on batts. your 6v cell is NEVER 6v and typically will be mid to high 7's off a fresh charge (as you charger has shown).

i can't say about the triton but my chrager shows me the same voltage as my futaba checker when i do a 1 amp discharge.

cheers


www.waterfoothelis.com

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11-24-2006 02:51 AM  11 years agoPost 51
eyeflyhelis

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charlotte nc

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WHAT???

only you have the power to make no difference!

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11-24-2006 02:40 PM  11 years agoPost 52
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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One last option, to save money, here are the specs on my current regulator:

http://www.miniatureaircraftusa.com...p?prod=4575%2D1

The only thing is, though, the output max is 5 amps, and the connectors are all the usual kind you find on servos--would that be compatible with a peerless battery or should I just go for the arizona?

I'll test what my triton says today....

Nathaniel

Nathaniel Rice
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11-24-2006 02:44 PM  11 years agoPost 53
SubSailor

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Austin, TX.

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Okay, but that still leaves the switch's 3rd lead, the charge lead...does that get removed, or can it remain (NOT to be used of course, I'd used the lead from the arizona).
You can just roll up that extra lead and ziptie it to keep it out of the way, you won't need it any longer. You will charge off of the lead from the Arizona(black plug), this is also where you can check your battery with a load checker. Hope this helps ya.

John

Fromeco Field Rep.
A day without sunshine is, well.., alot like night time.

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11-24-2006 02:49 PM  11 years agoPost 54
SubSailor

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Austin, TX.

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Looks like we both posted at about the same time so I missed your last post. Looks like to me that the regulator you have will get you by, should work fine. Of course you WANT that Arizona don't ya!! As for connections, you should be ok.

John

Fromeco Field Rep.
A day without sunshine is, well.., alot like night time.

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11-24-2006 05:11 PM  11 years agoPost 55
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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So if I order a peerless w/o any wiring upgrades, it will come with a regular connector to match my regulator? And 5 Amps is enough?

Thanks guys,
Nathaniel

Nathaniel Rice
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11-24-2006 05:15 PM  11 years agoPost 56
raptorheli2

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rip off britain and no changing it

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your reg looks fine for the job if you don't want the arizona. yes the standard wiring is fine. i have it like this in 2 synergys and evo 50. you won't pull 5 amps thats just what they have rated it for. if you pull 5 amps you have a stalled servo and the reg will be the least of your worries if that happens

cheers


www.waterfoothelis.com

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11-24-2006 08:00 PM  11 years agoPost 57
flyingquisinart

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Detroit Area

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Dual voltage-Arizona question
With the Arizona regulator, can I use lower voltage to the gyro AND tail servo and higher voltage to the rest, or is the gyro only isolated? I, like so many, have the 9254 and I'm afraid it will explode or something with more than 5.0 volts. There are too many threads on 9254 horror stories and I don't want to push my luck.

must have been a downdraft

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11-24-2006 08:55 PM  11 years agoPost 58
raptorheli2

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rip off britain and no changing it

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yes, your tail servo gets power from the gyro as you plug the tail servo into it. so if you reduce the voltage to the gyro you also do to the tail servo with the arizona. so basically your ccpm we'll call it servos and thro gets whatver voltage you want and gyro/tail servo get 5.0 from the arizona.

cheers


www.waterfoothelis.com

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11-24-2006 10:53 PM  11 years agoPost 59
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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Okay, great. I think I'll keep using my current regulator to save $--but one last thing. The picture of the peerless shows 4 wires exiting the pack--and it only comes with 1 Jr plug...so do I need to choose the "Add a JR Plug" option?

And what are those 4 wires for? I'm guess 2 are for discharge and 2 for charge?

Thanks alot guys

Nathaniel

Nathaniel Rice
Team YS Engines

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11-24-2006 11:19 PM  11 years agoPost 60
Arky

rrApprentice

Corfe Mullen, Dorset, UK

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my 2 pence

you dont need a battery checker, if u have a li-ion charger it should be able to discharge packs as well as charge them, set it to 1 amp discharge and check pack voltage i use the schuzse 6-330.

the flag switch gets sloppy after time and when in the off postion if nocked will turn on and off. (fine when flying)

u can rewire a normall switch very easy, it has to be open for on and closed for off, simple.

Jason

Wee.Splat

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HelicopterMain Discussion › Lithium battery setups...I'm clueless
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