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Blade
Other › Aluminum main frame
03-12-2006 02:17 AM  11 years agoPost 1
nuheliman

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Hammonton, NJ USA

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Anyone know where I can get a alunimum main frame for my Blade cp?

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03-12-2006 02:31 AM  11 years agoPost 2
BikeNBoatN

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Santa Ana, CA USA

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One of these?

Be aware that some people like them, many do not. The stock motors and batteries don't really have the strength to lift the extra weight. Brushless motors have the power to deal with the extra weight better.

Brent.

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03-12-2006 02:36 AM  11 years agoPost 3
nuheliman

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Hammonton, NJ USA

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How bout if I have lithium 11.1 battery upgrade, 9 tooth pinion and carbon symetrical blades?

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03-12-2006 08:43 AM  11 years agoPost 4
BikeNBoatN

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Santa Ana, CA USA

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I was interested in that frame at one time, so I followed most of the threads about it. I even held one up close and looked at it at my LHS. Never did get one for a variety of reasons. Some of the problems below I saw when I looked at it. Others that actually bought the frame noted some of the following problems:
*Heavy enough that even AEK and lipo's with brushed motors wasn't enough.
*Had to go brushless motors and lipo's to get enough power.
*Got radio glitches that wouldn't go away.
*Servo mounting was a problem.
*Canopy mounting was a problem since they don't provide any mounts.
*Battery mounting was a problem since they don't really provide an actual mount.
*Servo pushrods to swash are not 90* to the swash, which introduces unwanted interactions with the ccpm movement.
*I think there was a problem with the motor pinion clearance hitting the frame.
*People seemed to agree it was designed more for the Hummingbird CP2 than the EFlite BladeCP. Those that put the frame on their BCP had more problems with servo mounting, motor pinion clearance and motor shaft lengths than those who put the frame onto a CP2.
*It costs $70!

Those people that started with a CP2, converted to full separates (no 4in1, separate BL motors and BL ESC's, separate gyro, etc.) and used 3s lipo's seemed to have the best luck. Those that got the right combination that didn't glitch liked the durability of the metal frame and power of the BL motors. Others that had unfixable glitches and brushed motors, eventually went back to the stock frame.

I would have liked the extra strength of the aluminum frame, but I wasn't willing to put up with the other problems people encountered. So I'm still using the stock BCP frame. Once your skill level increases to the point where you're not crashing all the time, the stock frame works fine. It's plenty strong enough to withstand flight stresses, just has rather weak rear landing skid mounts if you crash.

To beef up those weak rear skid mounts, try wrapping multiple figure-8 loops of unwaxed dental floss around them, then soak it thoroughly with thin CA. That should strengthen them up a lot more and adds very little weight. Ideally, this is best done when you change frames, so the servos are out of the way. Otherwise it's too easy to accidently glue the servos onto the frame.

Brent.

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03-12-2006 01:12 PM  11 years agoPost 5
nuheliman

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Hammonton, NJ USA

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Thanks Brent, that is great info. You sold me in not getting one.

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03-13-2006 05:05 AM  11 years agoPost 6
atvracer

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Transplanted to Oklahoma

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03-15-2006 05:33 AM  11 years agoPost 7
reich2004

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Central PA

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I just bought one of these frames from helidirect. I just immediately contacted them to cancel this order after reading all that you wrote. My biggest issue is that I often fly and grass and that my landings are still far from perfect. With the factory tail and rotor landing in grass is a beast. Seems like the rotor wants to grab hold of the grass, and it just breaks my main frame. I just wish that the rotor or boom would break instead...

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03-15-2006 02:23 PM  11 years agoPost 8
1LO64

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Minnesnowta

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That's a cool kit but I have two concerns

#1 - Price and parts needed to complete the updgrade.

#2 - Replacement parts after a crash. I don't see a seperate parts listing

If I wanted a belt drive heli, I'd grab a T-Wrecks or even another 30 size bird before I dropped another 2 bills in the Blade. I still stand to fly it for what it was a designed for (A learning tool), unless you have deep pockets and money to waste....

James

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03-15-2006 07:02 PM  11 years agoPost 9
akerkhof

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Indianapolis, IN

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According to the site, parts are available, an email would probably clear up the exact cost. Since the whole kit is $70, and the gearbox alone is $20, I can't imagine the fiber or aluminum bits are going to break the bank.

As far wasting money and deep pockets go, a Trex setup is still going to be more expensive to setup, require a radio, require more expensive batteries, still have reduced flight times, cost an arm and a leg in crashes, and require more time to reset after crashes. Yes, it will also blow the doors off even a Blade with the belt drive kit, but everything in life is a tradeoff. Dropping $200 verses $500 for a whole new TREX, and you still ain't flying until you pony up for the radio. Buy smart, and a lot of that cost will transfer over to a TREX if and when you want to take the plunge. Just my $0.02.


-- Aron in Indiana -- http://www.neolith.org/cp2 -- Honeybee CP2 Resources

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