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Other › HS-56 Servo mounting in T-REX 450SE CDE?
03-08-2006 12:28 AM  11 years agoPost 1
Joel Rosenzweig

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Marlborough, MA - USA

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I have a T-Rex 450SE CDE that I'm building. I was advised to use the HS-56 servos so I went with those. The servos arrived today and I noticed that the HS-56 mounting flange uses 2 screws per side, while the carbon frames are drilled out for a single screw per side. Apparently, these frames were meant for other servos. I was a little surprised since there are so many recommendations for the HS-56. I didn't expect to have to modify either the servos or frames.

Ok - so I have a few options.

1) Return the servos and replace them with something that uses the correct mounting pattern. But what? :-)

2) Drill out the side frames to match the hole pattern on the servo.

3) Drill out the mounting flange on the servo to match the hole pattern on the frames. I'm worried that this option might weaken the servo mounting flange, but I don't have any data on that.

What do you recommend?

Thanks,
Joel-

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03-08-2006 12:34 AM  11 years agoPost 2
z11355

rrMaster

New England

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drill the frame to match the holes on the 56.

the frame was designed around the 55 servo which isn't
as good as the 56.

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03-08-2006 01:11 AM  11 years agoPost 3
Fry

rrApprentice

Lexington, Ky

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Drilling holes in the frame will give you a better hold (at least it seems like it would, just speculation). I just drilled a whole in the middle of the two holes already in the servo case. Seems to hold just fine and it only takes a few seconds to do it.

Both options are good I guess, up to you. From my experience, the servo sits solid just drilling another hole in its case.

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03-08-2006 01:26 AM  11 years agoPost 4
Coolpowered

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Youngstown, ohio

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Just drilled a center hole in my hs56's.

YRCHA CLUB MEMBER

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03-08-2006 02:42 AM  11 years agoPost 5
jcrack_corn

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End of Time

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i would definitely NOT drill the frame. You would need 2 holes and you would sig weaken the CF (there would be 3 holes)....not sure if it would matter (ie, even weakend, it might be strong enough for the relatively small forces we are dealing with).

THe hs-56's are GREAT, it takes about 3 minutes to get them ready. Get a sharp razor knife and cut the airplane tabs off, the drill a small hole between the two on the horizontal mounting tab. The plastic is very pliable and wont crack but you dont need a big hole as you will be using self-tapping screws anyway.

Throw them in, I use the 2nd hole on the single arm, ball mounted inside. I have my tabs mounted outside because I dont feel like doing it right right now (tabs inside) so there is a very small vertical angle in my links (probably less than 15 degrees) and it simply DOES not affect performance in anyway (they are 90 degrees otherwise). but since you are building from scratch you might as well wiggle them in from the inside. It is probably easier to use aircraft nuts and hex socket cap screws to mount them (rather than the self-taps and platic tabs) but I havent done that either yet (no reason to yet, lol)....just some thoughts.


BTW: i dont have any clearance problems with outside mount for the servo and Inside ball mount. (i think the channel 2 servo horn may touch the canopy at max collective and max cyclic (ie, swash binding range) but that is not a position it would ever be in in real flight (unless things have gone terribly wrong) so i didn't trim canopy at all with these servos.

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03-08-2006 02:49 AM  11 years agoPost 6
WupWup

rrApprentice

New Zealand

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1) Drill the servos (2mm)
2) cut off the spare tabs
3) glue cut off tabs together in 2's
4) Mount servos inside the frame with the glued tabs between the servo and the frame.
5) Screw through frame, 2 plastic tabs, servo tab then into plastic lock nut
5) Mount the arm with the ball inside

A drop of CA to hold the tabs and lock nut works a treat!

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03-08-2006 03:03 AM  11 years agoPost 7
Joel Rosenzweig

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Marlborough, MA - USA

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Thanks for all the feedback and advice. I'm pleased to learn that I can make use of these servos after all. It sounds like all of you have already run into this problem and dealt with it quite nicely. Thanks for filling me in.

Joel-

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03-08-2006 04:12 AM  11 years agoPost 8
rdlohr

rrKey Veteran

Pittsfield. MA USA

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Yep, did exactly what wupwup said. Works like a charm!


-#-> Still Flyin, crashin and lovin it!

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03-08-2006 04:39 AM  11 years agoPost 9
Vaigod

rrVeteran

Palm Beach, Florida

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For spacers between the frame and the servo, I used a few of the aluminum head shims that come in the spare parts bag.

-=Artti
T-Rex 450SE / T-Rex 600 / JR 9303
Rap50 Titan-OSHyper MP2 GV1 / Rap90SE OS91 MP2 GY611

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03-08-2006 11:20 AM  11 years agoPost 10
Greybird

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Davie, Florida

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If I spent all that money on an SE, I would get HS 65's.

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