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12-01-2005 11:26 PM  12 years agoPost 1
dcavy

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chicago illinois

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I have just modified my old honey bee 2 with all seperate components.
I also have an older jr xp783 transmitter that i wanted to use to get this heli back into the air. I have the manual plus have read a few books on the set up but seem to be still a little lost on what does what as far as all the diffferent switches and settings. I am fairly new to the hobby but have been flying it in its stock form for about six months and feel like im a little over my head. If someone has any experience in this radio it would be extremely helpful. trying to find someone in my area to help me has come up a little short.

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12-01-2005 11:58 PM  12 years agoPost 2
Rob_T

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I have a 783 and will be happy to help. Post away!

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12-05-2005 09:09 PM  12 years agoPost 3
dcavy

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chicago illinois

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great, first off having a little diffuculty wiht the ccpm mixing. contacted jr support, went through the set up and found that even after using the posted trick of ccpm mixing from someone on the rc group forum, i get a setting that says norm, 25rv, or 35rv. the tech said I would need to bring it in to have ccpm activated but shows swash is activated in the programming menu when you use the ccpm trick that was posted. anyways, ive gone thru and set up the model selection, and type. did the data reset as stated in the manual, and now am stuck on

aux 2 input whats the purpose and what do i enter
do i need the dual rate function if so what setting
exponential rate settings and how to
reverse switch i understand that it reverses the servo but is that for inverted flight or not
sub trim adjustment settings and how to
throttle curve settings and how to
pitch curve settings and how to
inverted flight how to and settings
revolution mixing settings and how to
acceleration mixing how to and settings
programmable mixing what is the main purpose and what settings am i going to to need to apply

i feel that is alot to ask but no one else was willing to help me
I currently have jst completed the re assembly of my heli and here is what i am working with. It is a honey bee 2 frame with the stock servos that came with the heli fron esky. I have seperated the 4-1 controller to use only the receiver hav a gws 3 amp brushed tail speed control with the high authority tail motor. a telebee head holding gyro. century brushless 10 t main motor, and the eflite 15 amp brushless ecs

any help to get my heli back into the air would be great. again i am new to this type of setup but feel that I have more functionality. sick and tired of losing signal 20 feet away due to a cheap transmitter that came with i so now stepping into something way more complex.
i also had tried recent attempts to contact you about possibly speaking over the phone if that would be easier. if so lets find a way to communicate by email address for each others phone #
thanks

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12-07-2005 03:03 AM  12 years agoPost 4
Rob_T

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Aux 2 - depends on if you need to use this channel to control remote gain on your gyro. If your gyro has 2 wires going to the receiver, one can be used for remote gain, which you can control using the AUX2 channel. If this is the case I'd suggest using the rudder D/R switch as the input, and setting the gain using the end-point-adjust for the AUX2 channel (7). If you're not using remote gain on your gyro, this setting doesn't matter!

Dual rate and exponential can be used together to change how the servos move for a given amount of stick input. Dual rate just lets you switch between 2 different sets of throws- you might have 1 position set to the mamximum (+/- 125%) for aggressive 3D flying and the other position set to something tamer (like 60%) to allow more precision in hover and landing. The problem is if you set the travels too small and your model gets hit by a strong gust of wind you might not have enough control authority to correct it (with the result you crash while you're fiddling to find the dual-rate switch!) Exponential lets you set the controls so that movements of the stick near the center produce less response than movements of the stick a long way from center. This is like an automatic dual-rate- small movements of the stick near the center, like you'd use in while hovering produce small movements of the servos allowing good precision, but if you need maximum control throws they are available still just by moving the stick all the way (when the servo will start to react more). How you setup dual rate and exponential is largely a matter of personal taste, what I like to do is to not use the dual rate function (leave it at 100% in both positions) and add about 30% exponential in one position and leave it at zero for the other. I only use exponential on elevator and aileron- I find I don't need it on rudder.

There is a menu selection specifically for inverted flight, which is different from the servo reversing menu. It uses a switch on the transmitter to temporarily reverse most of the controls to make inverted hovering more like right-side-up hovering. I think most pilots prefer to train their minds to think in the orientation of the model rather than the ground and so dont use this function. (In fact it would be difficult to keep flipping a switch on and off during aerobatics...)

Sub trim is used to fine tune the positions of the servos. On an eCCPM heli like you have I like to have equal pitch available in both plus and minus directions. Thats means that when I first assemble the model I set each servo to the center of it's travel and put the arm on so that the arm is as close to at right angles with the linkage as possible. I then use the sub trim to tweak the position of the servo until it's spot on at right angles. I then adjust the linkage lengths so that the swash plate is level and the pitch 0 degrees. This gives the most symmetrical setup possible. When I flight test and find some trim is needed I then go back to the subtrim menu and adjust the positions as needed until the heli will (almost) hover hands off with all of the trim levers centered. (JR didn't think to include trim memory functions in the heli program, even though the same radio has it in plane & glider modes!)

pitch curve- I like to setup 2 curves . In normal flight mode I set a curve for starting up and hovering. Something like 50,25,50,75,100. This may seem odd, but it allows 0 pitch (which corresponds to 50) while spooling up, which I've found prevents the heli from trying to spin quite so much during startup. Above center stick, the pitch curve matches the other pitch curve I use so switching back and forwards between modes is still smooth. My other putch curve is a straight line 0,25,50,75,100 which I set in stunt1, stunt2 and throttle hold.

Throttle curve- basically I set 2 different types of curve again. In normal flight mode I set 0 as the first point, and then I try to set the remaining points to give constant head speed. This means that the bottom quarter of the stick movement is used to spool up (slowly if you move the stick slowly) and the rest is available for flying. 0,40,40,60,90 would be a good starting point. I set a classic "V-curve" for both stunt 1 and stunt2, the difference is I let stunt2 go to 100% and stunt1 only to 90%. (maybe 90,70,50,70,90 and 100,75,55,75,100 as starting points). This makes stunt1 and stunt2 similar except for a higher head speed in stunt2. You'll need to use your ear and some judgement to find the numbers that will work for your model- these are just starting points. I set throttle hold to 0,0,0,0,0 so that the switch always kills the motor. (Use it to minimize damage in a crash, as well as for performing auto-rotations).

Revo mixing- if you have a HH gyro just set this to 0. It's used if you have a rate mode gyro to mix collective pitch to rudder to comensate for the different torque reaction as the blade pitch changes.

Acceleration mix: always start with this at 0. It's purpose is to compensate for the mass of the rotor head being accelerated to different head speeds. With a HH gyro, again you shouldn't need it and even with a rate gyro if you set your throttle curve to maintain a constant head speed you shouldn't need it. (To set it you ned to make a rapid climb and then adjust so you dont get the tail swinging at the start of the climb).

Programmable mixes: these are there to allow custom mixing for things not already covered. I can't think of a good heli example right now, but on a plane a good example is changing the elevator pitch to compensate for when you lower retractable wheels. I've never needed to use the programmable mixes on a heli.

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12-07-2005 03:49 AM  12 years agoPost 5
dcavy

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chicago illinois

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any clue as to the ccpm mixing issue on my transmitter. is this something you changed yourself or was required by jr service to fix? As said before i tried a hint off of rc groups for this particular radio but the tech at jr said that i should be seeing something other than what i currently have on my controller. followed all the steps but seem to still have a descrepency. i appreciate the response again and would like to know if we could converse over the phone? you seemed to clear some of the misconfussion i had but would still like to talk cause some things come about durring a conversation that may not have when posting.

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12-07-2005 07:48 AM  12 years agoPost 6
Rob_T

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Sorry, I never switched my 783 to CCPM - but I did do it on my 8103 which is very similar, they both seem to go into diagnostic mode the same way, but after that the menus are different - there's more display area on the 8103 so things are spelled out rather than abbreviated.

I dont mind experimenting with my 783 if you can tell me what you did after you got into the service menu. I know the first few entries are intialize, stick test, trim test and switch test and I know there'a battery voltage calibration, but I dont know which one is the CCPM enable.

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12-08-2005 05:56 AM  12 years agoPost 7
dcavy

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chicago illinois

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oki think i got that part figured out now. Did a little more investigating to get more info

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