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HelicopterAudacity Models P6 Pantera - Tiger 50 › Where to measure runout on fan /hub
12-01-2005 03:16 AM  12 years agoPost 1
flyingquisinart

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Detroit Area

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Where do I measure the runout at the fan hub? Is it at the narrower section or the wider lip/flange area where the clutch mounts?

I'm getting opposite runout readings at each which really scares me. The narrower section is about .005" on one side, but the wider section is about the same reading on the opposite side. I guess this means that it is either out of round in two different areas, or the whole thing is cockeyed on the shaft (more likely).

Thanks for any input!

must have been a downdraft

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12-01-2005 03:40 AM  12 years agoPost 2
jvanscoyk

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Tucson, AZ

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Howdy,

Here are some basics that I do to get the runout right.

With the dial indicator touching the hub at the widest part, I will turn the engine until I get to the low spot of the hub. I then turn ring on the dial indicator until it is zero on the needle.

Then turn the crankshaft until you get to a high spot. That should give you a good idea how much runout you have.

The next thing I will do is loosen the nut, grab on to the fan with a rag, put a crankshaft lock in the engine and turn the fan about a 1/4 turn.
I tighten the nut and try again. As you get closer to where you want to be, use smaller increments.

Of course the lower the better. Ray's heli manual says anything under 5 thousands is ok. Go for as good as you can get. If things are way out of wack, take the fan completely off and re-install and try again.

When happy with that, install the clutch on the hub and check the runout on the area that does not flex. If that's out of wack, remove both screws and turn the 180 degrees and re-attach and try again.

With the stock hub and stock drive washer on my OS 50 hyper I got mine down to under 2 thousands.

Be sure to check your runout with the driveshaft nut as tight as you can get it, otherwise the runout may change when you tighten it later.

Jim

must go faster, must go faster.........

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12-01-2005 04:54 AM  12 years agoPost 3
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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You can also check the run-out on the starter shaft..

Balancing Article with Pics

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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12-01-2005 05:36 AM  12 years agoPost 4
55crownvic

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Colorado Springs

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darkfa8

Thanks for that great info! Good stuff to know!

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12-01-2005 05:58 AM  12 years agoPost 5
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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no problem...

i checked your gallery, you have quite a collection, though helis aside, I really like your car...the paint scheme looks perfect for the lines of the car

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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12-02-2005 02:47 AM  12 years agoPost 6
flyingquisinart

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Detroit Area

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Well the good news is that I got the runout to .002. The really bad news is I broke the piston skirt using the toothbrush method of locking the crankshaft. I'll be buying a piston and crankshaft locking tool

Does anyone know if the connecting rod will come off the crank without pulling the front bearing? I can almost get it off by removing the piston sleeve to allow some wiggle room for the piston. I just can't get the con rod to move far enough to clear the crank pin. I don't want to force it or I'll ruin the bushing.

Thanks

must have been a downdraft

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12-02-2005 03:00 AM  12 years agoPost 7
Al Magaloff

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12,199 Posts- Enough Time Wasted. See Ya!

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You need to pull the sleeve. The toothbrush works great, IF you place the piston in the correct phase of it's stroke, so if/when the crank turns when tightening the nut, the piston moves up, not down, breaking the skirt. Many have come before you, sorry about your piston. The OS crank tool is the best and safest way.

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12-02-2005 03:07 AM  12 years agoPost 8
flyingquisinart

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Detroit Area

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I pulled the sleave and the con rod gets oh so close to coming off the crank, but I just can't move it enought to pull it off. I don't want to put pliers in there. This must be how it comes off, though. I can't see another way. I can't rotate the piston to the bottom to give me some more slack, because the bottom rounded part of the connecting rod travels in a groove in the crank case. If I rotate piston to the bottom, the connecting rod will never come off due to the "trench" it is locked in. I'll keep fiddling.


EDIT. Ok. Just took some more fiddling and it came off. Just ticks me off now I have to buy a piston because of my own dumb move.

must have been a downdraft

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12-02-2005 04:15 AM  12 years agoPost 9
jvanscoyk

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Tucson, AZ

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I have had success in similar situations by looping a piece of thread around the con-rod, sliding the thread up to the the bottom of the piston and give a pull and it usually pulls the con-rod off the wrist pin.

Jim

must go faster, must go faster.........

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12-02-2005 09:28 AM  12 years agoPost 10
Al Magaloff

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12,199 Posts- Enough Time Wasted. See Ya!

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Jim is correct, you need to move the conrod small end all the way across the piston, or you will not gain the clearance needed to remove the big end. I usually reach around the back side of the rod with an Allen wrench that has a piece of fuel tubing over the end. Care needs to be taken, so as not to mark up the rod in any way. Some fuels will varnish the wrist pin, enough so the rod small end won't slide across. A couple shots of spray BrakeKleen usually dissolves the varnish.

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12-02-2005 08:44 PM  12 years agoPost 11
flyingquisinart

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Detroit Area

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I see heliproz has a piston. I think I'll order a con rod too rather than take chances. Is it difficult to remove the piston pin? It has those little spring-steel retainers.

Thanks

must have been a downdraft

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12-02-2005 09:06 PM  12 years agoPost 12
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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I used a small pick to carefully remove the wrist pin retainers. They just need to be squeezed every so slightly to get a bit of it out of their receiver grooves and then you can work the rest of it out with the pick. Be sure to cup your hand over it or a rag so it doesn't potentially go flying across the room and get lost.

When reinstalling them, insert the non-bent end in first and then gradually work the ring in finally squeezing it just slightly and then push it in for it to seat in the groove again.

Just take your time, be patient and carefull.

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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HelicopterAudacity Models P6 Pantera - Tiger 50 › Where to measure runout on fan /hub
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