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Other › Blade grip/flybar alignment?
11-29-2005 01:29 AM  12 years agoPost 1
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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Greetings to all:

With over 300 battery packs through my Blade CP, I noticed some unusual "flutter" while hovering today. Checking the setup, I noticed that my normally perfect blade tracking is slightly out of alignment. That's easy enough to fix, but I happened to notice that my blade grips and flybar are no longer in 90 degree alignment.

As back ground, I've dinged up 7 sets of blades and not had a hard crash. I've replaced one tail rotor, but I'm still on the original flybar and paddles.

I've check the swash plate and all associated links, and nothing seems to have undue play. The main shaft runs dead true.

Any suggestions as to what is happening or what I should be checking/replacing? Your suggestions and comments are appreciated.

Best regards,

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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11-29-2005 03:46 AM  12 years agoPost 2
stealth916

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Rocklin, CA

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Not sure what you mean by 'not in 90 degree alignment'. Are you saying that your flybar is no longer perfectly perpendicular to your main blades?


OK - if that's not what you meant, then all I can provide is this:

Your flybar paddles must be at ZERO PITCH when your main blades are at ZERO PITCH. The flybar paddles must be level with each other.

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11-30-2005 01:01 AM  12 years agoPost 3
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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Hi Stealth,

The paddle/blade pitch match, and you are correct, when viewed from above, the flybar and blade grips are not perpendictular to each other. I double checked on my HummingBird CP2, and the blade grips and flybar are perpendicular. And I could have sworn that the Blade CP had similar alignment.

Thanks for your help and best regards,

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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11-30-2005 02:37 AM  12 years agoPost 4
stealth916

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Rocklin, CA

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Wow - how far off is it? You are right - it should be 90 degrees! That is according to the laws of gyroscopic precession. Are you sure the flybar isn't bent?

on the square Esky Bell Hiller head, it would be impossible to have it off unless the flybar was just munged.

I'll dig out my old Blade head parts and see what could be happening.

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11-30-2005 02:55 AM  12 years agoPost 5
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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Stealth, thanks for your reply. The alignment is off maybe a maximum of five degrees. Not a lot, but enough to be noticeable.

I flew the Blade this evening, hovering for over 8 minutes. Control response was normal and the flight was smooth.

After the flight, I disassembled the complete head. The flybar is dead straight. The little drive pin at the base of the head assembly is straight. My initial thought when doing the disassembly was that I would find one of three things: bent flybar; bent drive pin; or elongated/distorted holes where the drive pin and/or flybar go through the main shaft. I've reassembled the head and reset rotor blade pitch and the flybar paddles. After checking/adjusting blade tracking, the out-of-perpendicular alignment between the blade grips/flybar remain.

As I'm writing this, the only thing I've not checked is the possibility of main shaft twist. While not probable, it certainly is not impossible. The main shaft is under constant torisional loading when running, so maybe twist is possible over time? I have a spare/new main drive gear-main shaft assembly. Maybe I should tear the machine down again and rebuild with the new gear/main shaft and see if the head misalignment remains.

While I've not damaged a flybar, I have smacked up 7 sets of main rotor blades. Maybe this was enough to initiate a twist in the main shaft.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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11-30-2005 03:46 AM  12 years agoPost 6
stealth916

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Rocklin, CA

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nah - your main shaft could be twisted like a candy cane - and the grips will still (generally) be perpendicular to the flybar.

I have my completely assembled Blade cp head in my hands right now (sans the shaft) - nice that you can have these around and drop them on in 10 seconds with an Esky or Century auto gear - but I digress.

There is 5-8 degrees of slop - standard.

Here are the only parts that have any bearing on the subject, assuming all parts are in good shape:

The head - which is splined; and the flybar / seesaw assembly which rides up and down - and has matching grooves. That is where the slop is (where the splines & grooves meet)

They couldn't do much better with plastic. Too tight, and it will bind. Only perfectly machined metal would do the job without slop.

So I think we all basically have some slop in the area you are referring to. I wouldn't be concerned about that too much. I flew that head a long, long time - and I liked it so much I was hard pressed to cange to the BH head.

I may even change back. In fact - if I go back to my Jet Ranger fuse, I will definately go back to the hiller only - it is smoother - appropriate for scale flight.

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11-30-2005 11:19 PM  12 years agoPost 7
aircare84

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Marysville,OH

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gmcullan,
i've had to replace the main head assy & flybar center hub on my blade, first parts i've actually worn out & not broken.
had 3-4 months flying before they worn out though.
the excessive play does come from the 'grooves' & 'splines'
by the time i replaced mine , i had in excess of 1-2" back-forth play @ the paddles, new head pieces& it was about 1/2"

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12-01-2005 01:33 AM  12 years agoPost 8
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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I will have to say that it flys OK, nothing out of the ordinary. So it looks like I'm just dealing with growing "slop" from the wear of plastic components. Time to just keep on flying!

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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12-01-2005 01:51 AM  12 years agoPost 9
stealth916

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Rocklin, CA

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I giggle everytime I see the price of a frame/boom. Show me another heli - anywhere - that flies like this with a frame & boom replacement for under $10! Actually - I did get a couple of v2 frames & booms for my trex on ebay for less than $10

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