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HelicopterRadio - Servo - Gyro - Gov - Batt › Receiver Leads for Batteries?
11-30-2005 02:51 AM  12 years agoPost 21
GMPheli

rrElite Veteran

W. Bridgewater, MA USA

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Why not just solder your wires directly to the power bus on the receiver? Then just file a slot in the side of the case for them to exit. If you want a connector use a good heavy duty one such as a Deans

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11-30-2005 03:30 AM  12 years agoPost 22
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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GMPheli

yea i was thinking about that, but it would be a last resort, i dont want to go in and start modding crap on brand new receivers. may void the warranty?

i am using deans.

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12-04-2005 03:41 AM  12 years agoPost 23
nap_tan

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Santa Clara CA, USA

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If ever you want to sell you receiver, I think no one would want to take it modified that way.

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12-04-2005 04:06 AM  12 years agoPost 24
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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so i got them today.i ordered 5, 3 got backordered and the writing on the wiring says 20awg, so im kinda confused. i plan on emailing them and ask if thats right, or if they sent the wrong thing or what.
If ever you want to sell you receiver, I think no one would want to take it modified that way.
that wont be a problem, for me anyways. i did my one and only complete radio change over

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12-08-2005 09:17 PM  12 years agoPost 25
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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turn out theyre in fact 20awg and not 18awg, and theyre the largest i have found anywhere. only one size different than the HD stuff at 22awg.

so if i want to stick with higher gauage im going to have to direct solder, or do one of these pcb contraptions

im still going to give these leads a go though, and hopefully they work out.

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12-10-2005 01:45 AM  12 years agoPost 26
EChapkis

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Tampa, FL

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Battery Leads

Hey guys, my name is Evan Chapkis and I own RC Accessory.

20G battery leads are the largest I have found. I do have 18G extensions which of course could be cut and only 2 wires used.

No electronic expert here, but when I flew 35% + larger aircraft, I went all high gauge on the wiring and even the switches.

The concern was the power to the rx, not so much the power to servo's.

A few things that really help in high battery demands:

Use as heavy gauge wire for the battery leads and switches, typically 18-20G.

Keep the wire length as short as possible.

Dual leads, switches and or batteries help spread the load.

I also prefer to charge the battery though its own lead versus charging through the switch.

Also, some switches have more resistance than others, so the switch brand can affect the system as well. The Futaba HD switch is a very good switch.

Last thing.... Some people feel that using Ultra Deans or Sermos connectors from the battery to switch helps as well. The Futaba and JR connectors we use should be able to handle 5 amps continuous pull, but they will have less resistance and pass power better.

Evan Chapkis Tampa, Florida

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12-10-2005 02:02 AM  12 years agoPost 27
Ace Dude

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USA

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I use the Fromeco solution which includes their Arizona regulator w/optional 14awg wire and their batteries w/optional 14awg wire. No current flows through the fail-safe switch and there are two connections between regulator and the RX. I'm using APP connectors between the regulator and battery so I can charge the battery directly. Seems like a pretty straight-forward solution.

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12-18-2005 07:00 PM  11 years agoPost 28
nap_tan

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Santa Clara CA, USA

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Any results on this?

Here is a thought, how about Dean’s pigtail (12 GA) going to Futaba HD switch and then two parallel 20 GA going to the Rx? This method basically rearranges the original switch, charging jack becomes a parallel lead to Rx, Battery input changed to Dean’s. What do you guys think?

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12-18-2005 11:20 PM  11 years agoPost 29
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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sounds like a pretty decent idea there. it would require removing the battery in lead correct and replacing that with the pig tail?

my only problem is i dont have an extra slot anywhere so that option is out for me, but dual 22g(fut hd switch, unless you replaced them) to the rx sounds like it would work.

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12-19-2005 02:02 AM  11 years agoPost 30
nap_tan

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Santa Clara CA, USA

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spritefiend,

that is correct, battery-in changed to Dean's. maybe you have a onboard voltmeter that could be rerouted? I'll try to get some Dean's pigtail soon and look for an elegant solution. Meant to say 22 GA last post by the way

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12-19-2005 02:16 AM  11 years agoPost 31
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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yea that switch idea could work pretty good. unfortunately not, i use airt 8ch recievers uses the standard 7 for servos, gyro, gv1 and 1 battery lead.

however the only way i have been able to use the gv1 correctly with 2 idleups is with connecting the 2nd lead from the gv1 as the "on/off" function, which takes up ch8 and aux2 off the tx

soon i will be moving to a different gov thats not a gv1(havent decided) but i DONT BELIEVE i will need to use a 2nd lead like this. at that point i will be an option.

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12-20-2005 01:24 AM  11 years agoPost 32
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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actually i just realized this will work on my sailplane... using an 8ch narrow airt on it and i can do dual leads to it.

im curious is the dean's pigtail the same as their wet noodle??

been busy recently so i havent been able to mess with anything, but i will try and get it soldered up and try it out.

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12-23-2005 09:24 AM  11 years agoPost 33
nap_tan

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Santa Clara CA, USA

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Just checked Dean's website. The pigtail uses the ultra wire and not the wet noodle.

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12-23-2005 09:37 AM  11 years agoPost 34
Shortman

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Portland, Oregon

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22 guage wire is perfectly acceptable for any rc helicopter application, the only thing you really need to look more in depth at is the connectors.

JST (standard servo connectors) are really only good up to 3-5 amps, any more then that and they become hot and can fail

Mini Deans connectors can handle 10 amps continuous and run much more efficient,

Then there are the regular Deans connectors which are awesome.

Team JR
Team ThunderPower RC
Boca Bearings

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01-16-2006 09:09 PM  11 years agoPost 35
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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ok, so lets say i have this EXACT switch

i want to remove the charge lead, add a 2nd power to rx lead, and replace the battery in lead with a high gauge wire.

what im seeing with this switch, is chop the battery in lead, add it to the same spot the rx power lead goes, and remove and replace the battery in lead with my other wire. this sound right??

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01-16-2006 09:22 PM  11 years agoPost 36
EChapkis

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Tampa, FL

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Switch

You still have the switch as a single point of failure. Use 2 switches, 2 batteries. Just plug the 2nd switch into any available port on the rx.

Evan Chapkis Tampa, Florida

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01-18-2006 05:54 PM  11 years agoPost 37
mpafonseca

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Savannah, GA - USA

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Have anyone tryed the Scott Gray's Reactor SGH5256. I think it has all the necessary features for a good and powerfull system. Separate cable for the battery, the switch only provides a ground that turns the system on and the power to cyclic servos, tail system and receiver are separated. Please do anyone have some feedback on this system?

See yahh..

Marco

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01-18-2006 05:55 PM  11 years agoPost 38
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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have a link to one? never heard of one.

edit: also got to thinking about something else.. 2 of these 20ga battery pigtails i got from rc accessory, and a 14ga silicone deans noodle just make it into a Y harness for direct connect. would this have the effect im looking for?

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01-18-2006 06:10 PM  11 years agoPost 39
EChapkis

rrVeteran

Tampa, FL

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20G battery leads

In the near future, all rx batteries being shipped from RC Accessory will have the 20G leads.

Evan Chapkis Tampa, Florida

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01-18-2006 06:19 PM  11 years agoPost 40
JKos

rrProfessor

Redondo Beach, CA

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> Scott Gray's Reactor SGH5256

Save your money and get the Fromeco Arizona. The SGR is way overpriced in comparison.

> my only problem is i dont have an extra slot anywhere

I bet your gyro gain lead has the ground and power slots free.

- John

RR rules!

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HelicopterRadio - Servo - Gyro - Gov - Batt › Receiver Leads for Batteries?
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