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HelicopterRadio - Servo - Gyro - Gov - Batt › Receiver Leads for Batteries?
11-28-2005 07:09 AM  12 years agoPost 1
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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is 22gauge the thickest wire they offer for extensions etc?

i recently had made some packs with 14g wire for a sailplane with dean's connectors, and i didnt look before i leap. i also have a freya that i would like to run 14g high capacity packs on as i believe the std. wire is limiting and causing me some serious radio problems.

basically what im looking for is the thickest gauge wire leads up to 14g with a futaba/atx plug on one end, and a male deans on the other. is this possible? will i need to solder an extension right off the receivers?

or am i stuck with 22g wire? call it overkill yatta yatta but this is the direction i would like to go.

discuss.

Thanks,

John.

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11-28-2005 07:32 AM  12 years agoPost 2
nap_tan

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Santa Clara CA, USA

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http://www.rcaccessory.com has 18 AWG power leads that I am thinking of trying myself. Let me know if you find something better. Been actually thinking of doing most of the stuff you mentioned.

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11-28-2005 08:01 AM  12 years agoPost 3
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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nap_tan

ohh very cool. thats getting there. i emailed rc accessory about larger gauaged wire, so we will see what happens.

considering you cant really make a larger connector, due to the size of the receivers etc im sure stuffing a large wire in something small id imagine is kinda tricky.

i will continue looking, however this COULD be the end of the line.

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11-28-2005 09:05 AM  12 years agoPost 4
nivlek

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Norfolk England

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You could always fit two leads to your battery feeding two switches , that would half the resistance of a single lead and give you the added safety in case of a switch failure .

At the end of the day , it gets dark .

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11-28-2005 09:34 AM  12 years agoPost 5
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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ive been searching for the past hour and havent found anything better than the 18awg leads. if anyone does know of any better please post

nivlek: interesting idea. however, since i went to airtronics ive had to use the 8th channel slot so i dont have any extra. since the only HD switch ive seen, made by futaba is only 22awg it would be moot. so im planning on going switchless.

2nd one down.

http://rcaccessory.goemerchant7.com...&ExpandedDepts=

edit: going to look into soldering direct to the receiver though too ive seen it on here somewhere before.

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11-28-2005 12:43 PM  12 years agoPost 6
crowfly

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Pleasant View, TN U.S.A.

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spritefiend

If you have no free channel slots then plug an aileron extension into the receiver & plug the extra batt. lead into the leftover connector on the extension.

If God had meant for man to fly, he would have given him more money

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11-28-2005 02:25 PM  12 years agoPost 7
PaulJC

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Hertfordshire UK

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If you have no free channel slots then plug an aileron extension into the receiver & plug the extra batt. lead into the leftover connector on the extension.
That would defeat the object

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11-28-2005 02:48 PM  12 years agoPost 8
crowfly

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Pleasant View, TN U.S.A.

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What do mean, it would defeat the object ? It would allow an extra (redundant) power source to be connected to the receiver. While it's not as good as a direct connection to the receiver,,,,,, If you're looking for a way to hook up another current supply source to the receiver it will work.

If God had meant for man to fly, he would have given him more money

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11-28-2005 02:58 PM  12 years agoPost 9
smudge

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Wiltshire, UK

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Isolate the servos.

You could have thick wires going directly from the battery to the servos, via a big switch. Then only connect the signal and ground to the receiver.

The receiver then only draws enough power for itself. Some people go the whole way, and opto-isolate the receiver from the servos, and have separate batteries.

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11-28-2005 03:53 PM  12 years agoPost 10
PaulJC

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Hertfordshire UK

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What do mean, it would defeat the object ? It would allow an extra (redundant) power source to be connected to the receiver. While it's not as good as a direct connection to the receiver,,,,,, If you're looking for a way to hook up another current supply source to the receiver it will work.
You are correct however, i should really explain myself better lol, i think he wants to run a large guage cable direct from the batteries to the receiver and an extension of any smaller guage cable would defeat the object

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11-28-2005 05:20 PM  12 years agoPost 11
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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i think he wants to run a large guage cable direct from the batteries to the receiver and an extension of any smaller guage cable would defeat the object
hehe yea, i want to run higher than 22g wire that comes as "heavy duty", ie extensions, and switches. as it is i have 14g wire, itd step down to an 18g lead, and then again to a 22g wire.

as far as running dual packs, itd be nice(especially considering"that would half the resistance of a single lead"), but 2 of the 3 applications are small space applications which are sailplanes and sceadu's.

im running 4/5 A cells in the sailplanes, and i have to turn them sideways to slide them inside the front of the fuse for CG purposes.

im going to be switching to sub-c cells from 4/3 au cells in a flat pack config, and with the latter im having problems as it is with them fitting with the canopy. there is already one side of the pack which is wearing a hole through the shrink because of one of the canopy screws. fitting 2 would be fairly difficult.

edit: smudge - i ran across this on the rcaccessory page, however even with your explanation i only partially understand. do you have any more info on this? is it something that can be done in a compact amount of space??

im really trying to make it more complex, like i said i would like to get rid of the switch and use direct connect via a dean's.

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11-29-2005 12:29 AM  12 years agoPost 12
PaulJC

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Hertfordshire UK

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After a small amount of playing around, getting 18g into a servo connector isnt too tricky, i managed to get in some 16g by trimming the insulation a little where it would go into the servo plug.

Another thought i had was to solder some female servo crimps to a small pcb through the hole so the pcb could run along side the servo case and be attached by way of servo tape or cable tie etc to make sure that it couldn't be removed and this would allow you to attach any cable size or connector you choose

The other option would be to give the servos there own supply of power seperate to that of the receiver, again allowing any size of cable/connector to be used, the PCB for this may be a little more involved but will be something very similar to what i'll be running in my new heli allowing 6v to the cyclics and pitch and 5.3v for the gyro receiver and throttle

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11-29-2005 02:11 AM  12 years agoPost 13
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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PaulJC: interesting idear's you got there... when you get the seperate power supply off the ground, let me know and take some pictures!

the thing that i found too, is the az. reg. offers 14g w/ deans. i wonder if they use a dedicated plug for the power to the receiver?

i got this reply from rc accessory;
18G is the largest I have seen. No way will 14G work, not with standard
Futaba/JR connectors.
so it will have to do, going to order a few and see how they do for me. im going to keep the 14g on the packs though, it should allow me to really crank some amps into quick charging.

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11-29-2005 04:25 AM  12 years agoPost 14
crowfly

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Pleasant View, TN U.S.A.

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The fromeco arizona feeds current into the receiver from two locations. It's a little confusing, but not too bad. It "takes in" the signal from the rudder and gain channels. It sends out current to the rudder and gain channels positive & negative leads. This energizes the receviers + & - rails from two different sets of wires.

ps The "battery" input location on the receiver is no longer needed.

If God had meant for man to fly, he would have given him more money

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11-29-2005 04:27 AM  12 years agoPost 15
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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crowfly

ahhh i see. what gauage are those wires? std?

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11-29-2005 04:30 AM  12 years agoPost 16
crowfly

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Pleasant View, TN U.S.A.

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I think they're 22, but don't hold me to it.

If God had meant for man to fly, he would have given him more money

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11-29-2005 04:32 AM  12 years agoPost 17
crowfly

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Pleasant View, TN U.S.A.

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Twin 22's are plenty for a heli.

If God had meant for man to fly, he would have given him more money

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11-29-2005 04:33 AM  12 years agoPost 18
crowfly

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Pleasant View, TN U.S.A.

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Espically when you figure 99.999% are running off of one 22 or less

If God had meant for man to fly, he would have given him more money

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11-29-2005 01:29 PM  12 years agoPost 19
wuzofoz

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Brisbane,Queensland- Australia

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due to massive spiking on a volt spy i was determind to find the cause.
after rewireing with heavyer wire and switch i only noticed a slight improvement.
when the volt spy was run from battery it was ok and that got me thinking. how much do 5 digital sevos pull and is the circut board in the reciver up to it.
i can only estimate the draw at close to 2 amps.
what i have done is make at kind of bypass if you like.
i used header pins ( pn P2726 from dick smith electronics ) and simply gluded 3 together at 7 pins long as the have the right spaceing like that to push std servo plugs straight on.
solderd a wire right along the bottom and middel rows for posative and negative the top row gets 1 wire per pin to go to the receiver for signal.
i am running std jr wire to receiver with volt spy also pluged into receiver and almost no spiking.

i am running 3300 gp cells that take in 2600 ma ( getting old ) and at the end of 6 flights the 1st light is still lite with 2nd dim while all servos are worked.
compaired to all flasfing including the red after 3 flights on same batts when all was run from receiver i am alot happyer

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11-29-2005 05:03 PM  12 years agoPost 20
PaulJC

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Hertfordshire UK

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PaulJC: interesting idear's you got there... when you get the seperate power supply off the ground, let me know and take some pictures!
OK will do, for the time being, someting as simple as this should suffice since you only require a single voltage.

This would make a battery connection to the receiver redundant as it would source its power from the 3 fly leads meaning 22g would be more than capable, especially since 3 of your servos would now be sourcing power direct from the battery.

The PCB i designed for it measures 32.5mm x 12mm which is very small and could be shrink wraped in line. The PCB image is huge because its 600DPI but does print at the correct size

My current plan for next seasons heli (R50) is to have 2 low dropout switching regulators providing 5.3v for the receiver(JR900), gyro(SL720/9256) and throttle(Revlock/9254). It will provide the power to the reciever using the 3 flyleads which are providing the signal for the cyclic and pitch servos(HB6965) which will be running off the 2nd regulator at 6v.

The unit also now has a designed in low battery warning for the supply pack which will be a 4000mah 7.2/7.4 li-ion or li-po pack (most probably ion) and i'm trying to fit all of this (except the battery lol) in the standard tail servo location as it is now boom mounted.

I love a challenge

Hope this helps

Paul

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HelicopterRadio - Servo - Gyro - Gov - Batt › Receiver Leads for Batteries?
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