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Other › Telebee worked better than 401
10-10-2005 04:31 AM  12 years agoPost 1
ozbach

rrApprentice

Olympia, Washington,​USA

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This is wierd..I have been flying my T-rex with the telebee gyro it came with...works great...then I buy a brand new futaba 401 for my raptor 70....replacing the CSM 360 I have on it now...so I thought I would try it out in the T-rex first....it glitched so bad I couldnt fly it...mainly the motor cutting in and out...I made sure everything was set right according to the instructions.....anyway, I took it back off, put the telebee back on and it flys as smoothe as silk...I dont understand???..I know alot of you have the 401 on your set ups and are happy with it.....any suggestions on what I might have did wrong???

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10-10-2005 05:05 AM  12 years agoPost 2
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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Well, how close to the ESC was the 401 or the wires connecting it. The 401 wires are very long, and if they get packed up inside the frame, it could cause glitching depending on where they are run.... How does the 401 do on your bigger machine???

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-10-2005 01:00 PM  12 years agoPost 3
ozbach

rrApprentice

Olympia, Washington,​USA

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The ESC is all the way in the front of the machine, as far away as possible, the gyro wires were zip tied against the back of the frame, same place as the telebee is....I havent put the 401 on the Raptor yet,,so Im not sure how it will act...Im thinking about trading the recievers out of one of my planes , which is a PCM I heard they are much more resistant too glitches...I guess I should just leave the telebee in there for now?

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10-10-2005 02:03 PM  12 years agoPost 4
willard

rrApprentice

Indianapolis,​Indiana, USA

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Check you 401 in the nitro ship to see if it is faulty.

I went from an ms-044 to 401 and it is 10 times better. Also, make sure you dont have digi mode (ds) switched on when it is in your rex, unless your rex has a digital tail servo

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10-10-2005 04:44 PM  12 years agoPost 5
lightningrc

rrElite Veteran

UK

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Fit a ferrite ring or box , check on the post in this section , just bought one it worked for me , fitted just before the esc , my heli was acting like yours may be the 401 is picking up more on this .

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10-10-2005 08:35 PM  12 years agoPost 6
RICHW

rrVeteran

Cupertino, CA

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I believe the 401, because it is an SSM type, is susceptible to stray magnetic fields from some motors. You have it mounted very close to the motor. Try mounting it in the back, which is the most common choice. If it doesn't work there you can assume that it is bad.

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10-11-2005 12:17 AM  12 years agoPost 7
rcdaddy

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Singapore

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anyone has any experience with the teebee gyro, are they worth the money? at least they are half price of 401.

J

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10-11-2005 04:56 AM  12 years agoPost 8
ozbach

rrApprentice

Olympia, Washington,​USA

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I have the digital set too off....I noticed before i even lifted the heli off the ground..."which never happened"..that when i would put left and right yaw signals the motor would glitch like it wanted to start...then when i spooled it up a bit the motor, and motor only glitched on and off real bad....took the 401 back out re-installed the little cheapy telebee and it flew like a dream.....Im sure the 401 will work fine in the Raptor 70
"I Hope"...!!!!

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10-11-2005 03:53 PM  12 years agoPost 9
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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Man, almost sounds like a problem with the 401... maybe a short, that movement from other components causes it to short... causing glitching, which causes more shorts... vicious cycle... kinda like your are describing. Try it in the nitro, but be careful, and see if it works....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-11-2005 04:08 PM  12 years agoPost 10
skyhawk

rrNovice

belvil mich

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401 settings

Given the symptoms you mentioned,
it sounds like you are flying in rate mode.
The status light would confirm this mode as blinking
instead of steady. You could adjust the 2 gain values
to correct or adjust the switch to the proper mode.
Your voltage to the 401 is critical as well,
if you are using the modern digital servos you need a better
power source to deal with the higher loads.
Thanks RR --for this great information medium.....skyhawk

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10-12-2005 05:08 AM  12 years agoPost 11
ozbach

rrApprentice

Olympia, Washington,​USA

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turn on the gyro in in HH mode "solid light" but it starts blinking as soon as i move the yaw left or right, but the manual says it will "detecting input" I cant wait to try it in the Raptor 70 , but the weather is not co-operating yet...pretty wet outside!...been flying REX inside the house...mostly in my living room...Thats what i bought the Rex for.....for the "rainy days"...ha ha ha....Im using the 315 woodies...and the 15 tooth....its a touchy little unit!...but i put in -15 in the futaba expo.....seems just awesome now!.....the telebee takes a bit too warm up..so i have to start out with the trim a bit too the left...after it warms up the trim is right back where Trim memory was...thats my only complaint....so if you start cold...it will spin a bit nose left....but once warmed up, it holds pretty steady, inside the house that is!!

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10-13-2005 03:06 AM  12 years agoPost 12
skyhawk

rrNovice

belvil mich

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tuning issues

I have used 4 of these gyros on mostly raptors and
JR machines. They are very sensitive to vibration and
[as you mentioned] the temperature change issue.
Try to let the gyro stabilize its temp from one environment
to another before you initialize it. [from your garage or car to
the flying site temp]
The other issue, which has been documented alot,
is the effect of vibration on the gyro. I have devised a method
of removing ™ of the vibration by isolating the complete gyro
from the frame by installing it in a plastic or cardboard box
lined with 1/4 inch of foam installed on the gyro platform with
the standard gyro tape. The box is lined with this small layer of foam
on all sides. We have varying results from 70 to 90 % increase
in stability, and an added bonus of increased ability to cope
with the temperature change from your vehicle to the flying
environment. Drift is very controllable with the fine adjustment
of atv or tvl volume on the gain channel. [HH side]
The length of the arm on the servo is critial to give the
gyro the time to react to the yaw changes effectively.
See Raptortechnique.com for the particulars [applies to
the 401 and 240 futaba version as well]
Good luck on your application.............skyhawk

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10-13-2005 04:13 AM  12 years agoPost 13
ozbach

rrApprentice

Olympia, Washington,​USA

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Thanks for all the info people!....I love this site...you learn so much!..I like the foam idea!....and i do know too much vibration does affect gyros.....but I was getting glitches, just by moving my yaw left and right...heli wasnt even spooled up....the motor tried to glitch on, while moving stick left and right...I was making sure I wasnt giving any collective or throttle at all.....The little Telebee is working just fine anyhow....I love flying the Rex in the house.....Oh another Question too you guys.....How do you know when to land the copter will it loose all the power all of a sudden if the battery gets too low?...I know that sounds like a dumb question...but this thing just seems to go forever...and since Im in the house Im afraid if i get too that point....I would hate to destroy the girly freinds knick knacks.....The weather has been too windy and wet to fly it outside yet...cant wait, so i can open her up a bit!

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10-15-2005 03:56 PM  12 years agoPost 14
skyhawk

rrNovice

belvil mich

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zero your mixers-gyro inputs

Regarding your "glitches" referring to the motor and
maybe other channels, the setup includes resetting or
inhibiting, revo, offset and any mixing features of
either your futaba or Jr TX. You could be feeding in
an unwanted mix from a previous setup.
You can get a glitch from any "metal to Metal" noise in
the rotating parts of the machine as well. One solution is
to -"ground" your engine/frame components to the tail boom
to eliminate the interference to the tuning on your RX.
check your antenna routing, keep it away from the motor
and any servo location.
This "pre-spoolup" symptom could also
simply be the result of
too much gain, either on the sensor itself or on the gain channel
of the Tx.
Your pitch curve can cure the twitch and tail swing as well,
You need a head speed of at least 1500rmp for your
application.Good luck on your setup, --the foam box idea really
works, try it before any other fix .
Good luck on your setup.......skyhawk.......mich

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10-15-2005 05:16 PM  12 years agoPost 15
ShellDude

rrElite Veteran

East Coventry, PA

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I recently upgraded to the 401 from the Align (telebee) gyro. I used to keep my align gyro inside the frame cage mounted on the MH gyro tray. It sat an inch or two above my esc.

The 401 said, "Screw that!". Either by interference, heat or both, its performance sucked sitting so close to the speed controller. I eventually broke down and moved it up on top of the frame where you find most mounted and now its performance is dreamy.

I considered putting a thin sheet of metal between two patches of the gyro padding but haven't gotten around to it. I've seen bigger gyros (like the 601) setup so. It'd probably help dampen things.

Another thought I've had is to get a new ESC. Afterall, I did upgrade Align gyro... the esc isn't much better.

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10-15-2005 07:09 PM  12 years agoPost 16
ozbach

rrApprentice

Olympia, Washington,​USA

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Found the glitch problem!.....The tip of the reciever antena had some bare wire exposed, it was brushing up against the boom....I picked it up and brushed the wire back and fourth, and holy cow , it did some wierd stuff....so i snipped it off and made sure it is secure, and not touching the metal tail boom....and it didnt glitch a bit....I should try out the 401 again...bet that was the problem!

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10-15-2005 08:51 PM  12 years agoPost 17
MikeInMobile

rrElite Veteran

Mobile, Alabama

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Put a small piece of heatshrink onto the end of the antenna ..... this will prevent fraying.

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