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HelicopterAudacity Models P6 Pantera - Tiger 50 › need tiger setup help
10-09-2005 04:20 AM  12 years agoPost 1
planesarenofun

rrApprentice

Ahwatukee, az

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ive got my tiger 99% built now, and im trying to get all the linkages right. everything seems good, BUT.... with the pitch curve in the radio at 100 75 50 25 0, the pitch on the heli is actually +14,0, -9. how do i get it to +11,0 -11, without losing the zero pitch at half stick?

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10-09-2005 05:14 AM  12 years agoPost 2
planesarenofun

rrApprentice

Ahwatukee, az

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i got it figured out... just had to screw with it a little more

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10-09-2005 05:29 AM  12 years agoPost 3
jvanscoyk

rrVeteran

Tucson, AZ

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That's a pretty typical problem with all CCPM machines.

Here are a couple tips and I'm sure others will chime in on this one.

1. Be sure your ATV on all three servos is +-100%.
2. Make sure that at 50% throttle you have a 90 degree angle between the servo arms and the control rods. Use the subtrim feature on your transmitter if you need to, to get to that 90 degree angle.

My setup involved working on one blade first then measuring the links and matching the links on the other blade to the 1st "master" blade.

For my Tiger I followed the first 2 steps then adjusted the long link so that the mixing arm is level when the throttle is set to 50%. I then adjusted the short link until I had 0 degrees pitch at the same 50% throttle position. That should give you a very symmetrical pitch range from bottom to top. This should now be considered the master blade. When you are satisfied with the pitch range measure the long and short links and match the slave blade to those lengths. Be sure to keep the flybar level when you are checking the pitch. This technique also has another benefit in that it will take little are no link adjustments to get the blades to track.

One more thing, be sure to get a longer servo arm for the front servo. The 2 side servos should have their ball at 20mm out from the center of the screw and the front should be 23mm out from the center of the screw. That will ensure the swashplate stays level throughout the entire pitch range.

I hope this helps.

Jim

must go faster, must go faster.........

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10-09-2005 11:52 AM  12 years agoPost 4
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Others Will Chime In!!!!

jvanscoyk
Now why would we do that???? You had him covered better then JB!!!!!

And planesarenofun, have a ball with your new machine...... bet you like it!!!!!

Stan (Tiger Grin!!!)

AMA 2918-Team JR, Spin Blades, East Coast Scale Helicopter,Castle Creations

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10-09-2005 02:59 PM  12 years agoPost 5
planesarenofun

rrApprentice

Ahwatukee, az

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thanks jim, thats pretty much what i ended up doing. just playing with the arms and rods and radio settings until everything worked right.

and stan, im sure i will love it. i cant wait. now im just waiting for my mpII and some decent weather.

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10-09-2005 06:00 PM  12 years agoPost 6
planesarenofun

rrApprentice

Ahwatukee, az

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ok heres a dumb question for you guys. when i try and fold the main blades back, the screws in the plastic blade roots hit the blade grips and they dont fold back far enough to put in the holder.

do i have something messed up here, or will i have to take the blades off every time i want to transport or store the heli?

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10-09-2005 06:28 PM  12 years agoPost 7
dbcaster

rrApprentice

Petaluma, Ca

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Usually the blades will just barely hit if they do. You can file down the corner that hits the bolt if it is a very small amount. One of my tt blades hit but it was just the corner left from the mold.

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10-09-2005 08:13 PM  12 years agoPost 8
flybarless

rrKey Veteran

Torrington, CT

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Make sure you have the spacers installed in the blade grips top and bottom, that 1mm will make a difference.

Just remember -- if the world didn't suck, we would fall off.

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10-10-2005 12:16 AM  12 years agoPost 9
jvanscoyk

rrVeteran

Tucson, AZ

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I run the TT blades with a spacer top and bottom and they fold fine without any mods.

Jim

must go faster, must go faster.........

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10-10-2005 01:52 AM  12 years agoPost 10
Foxden

rrElite Veteran

Port Charlotte, FL.​USA

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Blades

I currently run the TT600's with both spacers top and bottom like Jim and John mentioned.

I've also run Rotortech 600's and V-Blade 600's no problem folding them back.

Flybarless, just put 6 more tanks through my new Tiger 50 kit this weekend and it's flying great, Just put a QuicK UK swash plate on with some KSJ Venture 50 seesaw arms, can't wait until next weekend to give these toys a try.

Steven and I along with Tim Tompkins and Hotwings will be attending the IRCHASE event in a few weeks, should be a good time.

Clyde

Clyde Fox
Port Charlotte FL
Team Outrage

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10-10-2005 02:03 AM  12 years agoPost 11
bsc

rrNovice

Villa Park, IL

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I run the TT blades with a spacer top and bottom and they fold fine without any mods.
Really? My TT blades don't even come close to clearing the spindle. Each blade will clear it folding in one direction, but not the other, so I cannot fold the blades back. John Beech said the new grip design will not have this problem. The TT blade holes must differ from blade to blade.

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10-10-2005 12:51 PM  12 years agoPost 12
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Blades Hitting....

The stock wood blades will hit the tip of the bolts.... I just folded them in and out a few times to get the needed clearance and then removed them and sealed the end with thin CA.....
That should take care of that problem...
I an now running Maverick's and not a problem and I have never had a problem with the tt's either.....
Good Luck....... Stan

AMA 2918-Team JR, Spin Blades, East Coast Scale Helicopter,Castle Creations

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