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Other › removing screws from R48 (green locktight)
10-08-2005 09:38 PM  12 years agoPost 1
nojohnny101

rrElite Veteran

10 miles north of​Cincy, OHIO

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hey
guys i just purchased HDE T-rex XL V3.....and have completed the main build.....and am no getting into the eltronics...

i tried to put on the links but hten discovered that one that goes on the flybar cage needs to be slide on....

when i went to go unscrew the screw that are holding the cage together (the one side).....it started slipping...


i dont' want to go any further for fear of stripping the screw and never beign able to get it out....however i think part of the reason it's not coming out is becuase i applied green locktight (they call it R48 in the manual) and that's holding it in there nice and good

how do you recommend getting it out.....i can't heat it up because the arm it goes through is plastic and i'm afraid of melting that...


Thanks
~Will~

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10-09-2005 01:38 AM  12 years agoPost 2
Gary Hoorn

rrKey Veteran

Annapolis Maryland​USA

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Will,
I doubt if you will be able to get those screws out if you used R48 on them without damaging something. The only place where R48 should ever be used is maybe on a motor pinion. Never on the Heli itself. Order up some spares as you will probably need them.
Gary

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10-09-2005 01:39 AM  12 years agoPost 3
Gary Jenkins

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Nowhere, US

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Use a good screw driver. Put masking tape on metal part and hold with a pair of pliers.
Good luck. The R48 is strong thread lock.

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10-09-2005 01:40 AM  12 years agoPost 4
nojohnny101

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10 miles north of​Cincy, OHIO

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hey
The only place where R48 should ever be used is maybe on a motor pinion. Never on the Heli itself
i guess that i should ignore the manual then????


thanks gary jenkins.....i'll try that

Thanks
~Will~

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10-09-2005 01:49 AM  12 years agoPost 5
Tmaster

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TX

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same thing happend to me i stripped 2 of the 4 becuase i used the green R48. No way to get them out lol unless you drill them. Lucky I striped the opposite ones on each side, so I just leave it partially together when i take apart the rotor system. works fine. I dont use any of the green or locktite anymore.

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10-09-2005 03:16 AM  12 years agoPost 6
TMoore

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Cookeville, TN

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Someone at Align should be flogged for including that Green snot in the bottle in the kit. My friend did the same thing.

I got lucky because I built one of the first TRex's for the LHS and threw the green stuff away early on.

TM

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10-09-2005 04:00 AM  12 years agoPost 7
lakespinner2

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north carolina

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One thing u might want to try, especially if you've tried about everything else with no luck, is to get a soldering iron and hold it right on the head of the screw. With some good timing and a dose of luck you might be able to get the screw hot enough to let go without melting the plastic. It's a delicate balance but I've had some luck with this method in the past.

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10-09-2005 06:09 AM  12 years agoPost 8
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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The only place on a T-Rex where that R-48 DOESN'T work is the two swashplate halves!

That's the stuff the factory uses (and recommends) to hold the inner swash parts in the bearing. And every version of Align swash separates -- go review the RR T-Rex thread for background on this problem.

So -- if you haven't already, take the swashplate off and separate the inner and outer parts from the large bearing. Clean off all the old glue, then reassemble using a small amount of JB Weld or CA -- just don't get any in the bearing.

Dave

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10-09-2005 05:19 PM  12 years agoPost 9
nojohnny101

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10 miles north of​Cincy, OHIO

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hey
thanks guys...i'm just going to order a new cage and keep this one for backup...


i did hear about the swash problem....i have tried to seperate it though and it doesn't wnat to come apart?

does anyone have a pictuer of where to push...cause i have no clue where i just picked a place that i thought seemed logical


Thanks
~Will~

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10-09-2005 06:20 PM  12 years agoPost 10
dkshema

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Cedar Rapids, IA

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The idea is to remove the complete inner portion of the swashplate from the inside of the inner race of the large ball bearing. Support the outer ring, push firmly on the center of the swash, from the bottom.

It may be worth your while to flip it over, and carefully use a press or a drill press to pop it apart. Support the outer ring, and press the inner section out being careful not to damage the uniball or its supports.

Sometimes it takes a bit more than your fingers can provide, but a little extra coercion with a mechanical advantage will pop it like a zit!

Dave

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10-09-2005 06:24 PM  12 years agoPost 11
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Here is a good illustrated, step-by-step process from Align...just be careful when you "toast" the swash with a lighter!

http://www.align.com.tw/shop/produc...products_id=894

Use something besides their R48. In addition to CA or JB Weld, I'd think you could use Loctite Stud-n-Bearing mount (red), and probably green loctite. Whatever you use, let it cure fully, and don't get it in the bearing.

Dave

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10-09-2005 07:06 PM  12 years agoPost 12
nojohnny101

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10 miles north of​Cincy, OHIO

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hey
thanks so much


that is an awesome illustration...thansk again...will try


Thanks
~Will~

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10-09-2005 11:34 PM  12 years agoPost 13
MikeInMobile

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Mobile, Alabama

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Grain alcohol will chemically breakdown ANY form of Locktite (I use this whenever I get too much Locktite on a component and cannot get it free). Dribble some grain alcohol onto the joint containing the Locktite and let it sit for about 2 minutes. After letting it sit, repeat the procedure. After the second treatment, the screw WILL break free with sone effort. The alcol\hol breaks down the crystaline structure that makes Locktite work (the first Locktite was sugar-water). The only problem that I can see is that alcohol degrades some plastics.

Isopropyl alcohol will NOT do the job! The oil suspended in the alcohol coats the crystals, thereby preventing the chemical breakdown of the crystaline structure that is holding the threads. You can get grain alcohol at ANY liquor store (We all know where these are )

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10-10-2005 02:17 AM  12 years agoPost 14
willard

rrApprentice

Indianapolis,​Indiana, USA

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I tried like heck to pull my swash apart when I was building my rex, and it wouldnt budge so I thought it was ok.

Think again! luckily it was on the bench when it seperated I was trying to figure out why my pitch range was all jacked up all of a sudden then noticed the font of the swash was higher than the back!

when I took it apart, there was no glue of any kind in there.

I think they come from the factory as a press fit !

and heat from the bearing loosens it up

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