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10-08-2005 06:30 PM  12 years agoPost 1
clearsky

rrApprentice

connecticut

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Of the various types and sizes of available batt for the T-Rex what would the average life expectancy :charges/discharges be. How
many flights can or should one expect to get. I realize the cost of batt and it's replacement is in contrast to Nitro fuel just looking for some idea.

Thanks, Bob

Keep'um in sight

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10-09-2005 03:17 PM  12 years agoPost 2
clearsky

rrApprentice

connecticut

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anyone

Keep'um in sight

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10-09-2005 04:00 PM  12 years agoPost 3
Daniel Wee

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Singapore

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A lot will depend on how you treat the battery. If you constantly discharge the battery deeply, or run it at high temperatures, or overcharge it, the life is going to be significantly shorter. If you seldom use the battery to its' full capacity, and it is overrated for your usage, chances are it will last much longer. As such "average" is really subjective and actual performance depends a lot on usage patterns.

Daniel

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10-09-2005 04:06 PM  12 years agoPost 4
Gary Hoorn

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Annapolis Maryland​USA

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Bob,
Before replying I checked my Lipo Log and added up the cycles I have on my Gen2 TP2100's. I have 3 that have 146 cycles on them and will still give 10 minutes of 2400 headspeed with my Lehner motor. When they were new I restricted the discharge to .5C with short flight times for 6 flights. They have never been discharged on any cycle charger as you are just throwing away a life cycle doing that.
I have some of the new Prolites but only a few cycles on them so cannot comment on those yet.
Gary

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10-09-2005 04:21 PM  12 years agoPost 5
martinic

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NB, Canada

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My G2 TP2100 3S packs lasted ~30 cycles each - they were run at 140F regularly (measured at the end of each flight). I had to give two packs salt water baths and two more now only get 8 minutes (just installed balancing leads, but it's just to buy a little more time). I now have a TP2100 Prolite 3S and it seems to run a bit cooler. I'm running mine with a Mega 16/15/3 11T using stock 315 wood blades.

The middle cell cooks in these 3S packs under the high current draw. We really need 30C packs for these helis. The new "20C" packs should be better. I'm really looking forward to the flightpower EVO20s - the Polyquest 20C packs look good too. I like the idea of spacers as in the PQ1800s (recent ones?), but not sure if they'd made a real difference. or not. I'll never buy another pack without balancing leads though (a necessity based on my personal experience).

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10-09-2005 11:44 PM  12 years agoPost 6
clearsky

rrApprentice

connecticut

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Thanks for the replys. Gary an Martinic your answers were very informative.
Any others have anything to share as to Battery life.

Thanks, Bob

Keep'um in sight

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10-10-2005 01:18 AM  12 years agoPost 7
MikeInMobile

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Mobile, Alabama

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My TP2100 Gen2 packs have over a hundred charge/discharge cycles on them with no degradation ........ Maybe I'm doing something right ?

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10-10-2005 01:28 AM  12 years agoPost 8
martinic

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NB, Canada

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I dunno Mike - how hot do your packs run? In my case, the heat definitely cooked the packs.

What motor do you run?

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10-10-2005 01:49 AM  12 years agoPost 9
MikeInMobile

rrElite Veteran

Mobile, Alabama

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The packs have survived two motors. The first one was a 400LF. I was not satisfied with the headspeed, so after flying about 60 cycles (temperature of the pack was 10 degrees above ambient), I installed a 400DH. With this motor, my pack temperatures are a little higher (15 degrees above ambient), but the packs are still not hot.

You are right when you say that HEAT is the enemy of a LiPo !

If your packs get much over 25 degrees from ambient, you WILL reduce the life of the pack (All temperature measurements of your packs should be based on the ambient temperature, not absolute temperature).

I just bought some of the TP2100 Pro-Lites for use with the 400DH, and because of the lower internal impedance, temperatures dropped back to where I wanted them (10 degrees above ambient).

If you wnat your packs to last, match the pack to the motor ..... It will cost you a lot less in the long run !

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10-10-2005 02:03 AM  12 years agoPost 10
martinic

rrKey Veteran

NB, Canada

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Wow - that's weird. According to the tests I've seen, the 400DH defintely is more amp hungry than the Mega 16/15/3 on the Trex (will vary with pinion/blades). You'd think it would be harder on the packs and result in higher temperatures.

The manufacturer specs out the pack for an operating temperature of up to 140F, but that's too high for longevity.

I've probably got the most common config out there and I've seen plenty of other pilots with the same experience.

I'm holding off buying replacement packs because I may end up going 4S with a new motor (+SBEC).

Most of my flying was over the summer when ambient T was fairly high and I was mainly hovering. That's didn't help things - not much airflow. In retrospect, I should have let the heli rest for a few minutes every 5 minutes of lfight - who knew.

I'm running ~2400 RPM headpeed in governor high mode on the CC35, 1.61 firmware. Seems to work well.

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10-10-2005 02:27 AM  12 years agoPost 11
MikeInMobile

rrElite Veteran

Mobile, Alabama

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The biggest reason for battery pack failure is the connectors (beleive it or not). I use Ultra Deans connectors for the batteries, and NO connectors for the motors. I also shorten all of the leads to their minimum length. When I solder, I use the smallest guage of silver bearing solder (not silver solder) that I can find. This helps with the penetration of the solder into the braid of the wire (VERY important). I also use a 1C charge rate and have never had to balance a pack (guess that I've been lucky).

Contrary to popular belief, cycling LiPo packs DOES help them live longer. I use a 1C Discharge / 1C Charge cycle every 10 charges of the pack. People said that NiMh batteries didn;t need to be cycled, but that was proven false later. The low impact discharge / charge cycle helps to prevent the unbalance of the pack by providing a low power discharge cycle, which takes the load off of the weak cell, allowing the rest of the cells to "catch-up". When followed by a 1C charge, all of the cells will then return to proper geometry. When the pack discharges at a high rate, any cell that has a lower charge will depleat quicker, causing a higher resistance path for the other cells (think of a battery as a fixed voltage source with a variable resistor wired in series ..... this is how a battery acts) to discharge through, causing heat to be generated, causing slight chemical changes in the batteries (this is why you NEVER let LiPos get HOT).

I know that the battery experts will say that I am wrong, but I beleive that the proof is in the pudding !

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