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Robbe › Eolo config and other question need your help
10-06-2005 04:15 AM  12 years agoPost 1
lovemov

rrApprentice

St. Louis, MO

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OK, I think the Logo vs Eolo is over, you guys made me believe Eolo is what I need now.

So, I have following questions, hope you can help me out:

First of all, I have no interest in hard 3D now, so my goal is to get this good quality build heli and having some hover and light flying fun. So I want this thing can fly longer per charge, trouble free (at least less hassle).

1. Spirit Li, is basically an Eolo Pro plus belt drive, am I right? I should get it or the Pro is enough for me?
2. Which Motor/ESC (enough power, but have low power comsumption in mind, since NO hard 3D is required, already have battery 3s2p 4200mah)
3. servos (good quality one), only S3150? anything in JR line?
4. Gyro will be 401+S9354, no question
5. Co-pilot, worth investing? If not, need a good FM rx, PCM a good idea or regular PPM is fine?
6. Last and important, which dealer? I know rchover is selling it, basically same price as robbeusa, so doesn't make sense...

Thanks.

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10-06-2005 05:11 AM  12 years agoPost 2
Stet

rrElite Veteran

Key Largo FL

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Get the belt drive version for sure

3S2P is fine

Futaba 3150 is best servo. There are cheaper alternatives, but why save a few dollars when you can have the best

401/9254 is good, but if you already have a 401 get the 9650 servo instead

Good motor is the Hacker C40-9L Second choice is the Kontronic twist 37

First choice speed controller is the Kontronic 55-6-18, or 40-6-18. Second choice is castle creations Phoenix 60 (guess what, I am trying to sell mine so I can upgrade to the Kontronic)

Get the TP-425 charger, your most economical sollution

You will need a pinion set for the motor. I suggest the 14T for mild flying, the 15T if you want more power.

Check out my gallery for Eolo photos.

RCHover is a great dealer, he deserves your business and he has all you need in stock.

keepin' it real

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10-06-2005 07:44 AM  12 years agoPost 3
Lorents

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Oslo, Norway

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I second the setup from Stet.

You should definately go for a PCM receiver. Glitching can be a problem on some setups and a PCM receiver can prevent your Eolo from going wild if you get some glitches. Do a range check every day and you will discover glitches before you go into the air PCM also have failsafe.

From what I have read the Co Pilot is supposed to work fine, but some people have stopped using them because of glitching problems with the receiver.



What comes around goes around.

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10-06-2005 07:53 AM  12 years agoPost 4
Stet

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Key Largo FL

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forgot to add

copilots are great for arial photography, and beyond that I find them to be an annoying novelty that only causes complication to the setup and operation of the heli. Also, for CCPM you have to use their system that includes the receiver, that is unless you add some sort of mixer which I definately do not recommend

I run PCM on everything, especially things that have a tendency to glitch like electrics and gassers

keepin' it real

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10-06-2005 09:58 AM  12 years agoPost 5
Buzzsaw46

rrVeteran

Spring Valley, MN.

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Stet's plan is a sound one.

None of the good JR servos fit the Eolo frames, I really wanted the JR DS3421SA's but got the S3150's because of fit issues. Airtronics has a new Micro digital servo out, but there are no torque or speed specs on it yet. http://www.airtronics.net/2004_servos.htm bottom of the page. Tower has these listed @$59.99. Same price as the S3150. I would like to try the new Airtronics servos but will hold off until performance specs are out.

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10-06-2005 01:58 PM  12 years agoPost 6
Laurens

rrKey Veteran

Oegstgeest, NL

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1. Spirit Li, is basically an Eolo Pro plus belt drive, am I right? I should get it or the Pro is enough for me?

The pro is good enough, but the belt drive is very nice. Also crash costs are lower with the belt drive.

2. Which Motor/ESC (enough power, but have low power comsumption in mind, since NO hard 3D is required, already have battery 3s2p 4200mah)

The Twist 37/Jazz 40-6-18 are recommended by robbe together with a 3s2p pack.

3. servos (good quality one), only S3150? anything in JR line?

3150 is the best, but HS81 will work too.

4. Gyro will be 401+S9354, no question

The best option.

5. Co-pilot, worth investing? If not, need a good FM rx, PCM a good idea or regular PPM is fine?

Take a good PCM Rx, you'll love it. Don't buy a Co pilot though.

6. Last and important, which dealer? I know rchover is selling it, basically same price as robbeusa, so doesn't make sense...

I think this is just a personal choice. I heard RChover has a very good costumer service.

Edge rotorblades, Scorpion systems

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10-06-2005 02:47 PM  12 years agoPost 7
lovemov

rrApprentice

St. Louis, MO

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Thank you guys, very helpful!

For the motor, I think I will go either Hacker C40-9L or twist 37, question is which consumes less energy? Can't find hacker data...

ESC, I read some onboard BEC problems, but I really like to use the onboard one so less component, less cost; are these onboard BEC good (reliable) enough?

For rx, I will go PCM,.

Still, not sure Spirit Li or Pro; if Pro+belt drive upgrade = Li, things are easier; anyone knows?

One last question, for this setup, how long the battery will last after one charge? Any other motor that usable, equal quality, but consumes less power?

Thanks.

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10-06-2005 03:28 PM  12 years agoPost 8
HugeOne

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Quebec, Canada

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The C40 9L is a milder motor, it will consume less energy, plus the day you want real power just upgrade to 4S.

The Jazz's bec is very good, but if you use digitals all around, maybe a tiny hitec ni-cd pack in // with the BEC will make things safer. If the pack show no dicharge after flight you may consider removing it.

I got 3 HS-85 and I'm very satisfied, if you don't do any 3D I would not see why you could not use them. You can have them for 65-70$ shipped on ebay, half of the S3150's cost.

I'll go with the LI if I was you, the carbon battery tray and different canopy make installation of lipos easier.

Expect 15mins with a 4200mAh, before switching to 4S, I had a 3S 8000mAh and made up to 32mins flights with the C40-9L on 14T.

Raptor e620 w/V-bar, Tango 45-06, Phoenix 85HV, TrueRC 12S1P 4000mAh

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10-06-2005 06:56 PM  12 years agoPost 9
Lorents

rrElite Veteran

Oslo, Norway

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Wow, 32 minutes!!

I get about 19 minutes aerobatic/mild 3D from my Twist37 on 3S2P Flightpower 5000mah lipos.



What comes around goes around.

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10-06-2005 09:08 PM  12 years agoPost 10
Laurens

rrKey Veteran

Oegstgeest, NL

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Lovemov, the Li has the 3rd bearing as a std too. Also the carbon battery tray for lipo's are very nice. Since your going lipo anyway I'd take the Li.

The Kontronik Jazz 40-6-18 ESC seems to be the best available. It has the best BEC.

Edge rotorblades, Scorpion systems

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10-06-2005 09:33 PM  12 years agoPost 11
Buzzsaw46

rrVeteran

Spring Valley, MN.

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Just for a little info on the S3150, GY401/9254. I was curious about the curent requirements for these servos so I hooked up my wattmeter and started wiggling sticks, with all four servos going back and forth as fast as I could move them I was able to pull only .5a. I then held the swash with one hand and moved my collective up and down while provideing resistance still only .3-.4a draw. For comparison I did the same test on my Hornet with three JR 241's GY240/HS50 without any load these servos drew .6a I was affraid to try and add resistance due to the Hornets fragility.

I would like to do this test again with my HS85BB's but haven't had the time. The results of this first round of testing were a bit surprizing as I figured 4 digital servos would surely draw more power than 4 standard sub micros.

From the limited flying I have done since switching to the S3150s I would say they are well worth the added cost! You dont need to be a 3D master to apreciate the higher quality of the 3150's. But to be fair I did fly the HS85BB's for over a year with no problem other than the slop they developed

If you go with the Jazz ESC you should have no problems with your onboard BEC.

The Li doesn't exactly = Pro+belt drive there is at least one other differance and that is it comes with a longer flybar, weather there are any other differances I dont know. There seems to be little info anywhere on the exact changes that have been made on each of the new kits. I think if I was shopping for an Eolo today I would probably go with the Li.

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10-06-2005 10:12 PM  12 years agoPost 12
HugeOne

rrKey Veteran

Quebec, Canada

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Buzz

You measured the input current at the Jazz... The jazz use a switching type BEC.

It mean that it have around 85% efficiency:

So from (12V/5V)*0.5A*0.85 = 0.96A (more real figure of current.)

It work like a transformer, high voltage/low current at the input and low voltage high current at the output.

Raptor e620 w/V-bar, Tango 45-06, Phoenix 85HV, TrueRC 12S1P 4000mAh

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10-07-2005 01:50 AM  12 years agoPost 13
lovemov

rrApprentice

St. Louis, MO

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OK, I will take the suggestion:

Spirit Li
Kontronik Jazz 40-6-18 ESC


For motor, is it ok to use C40-12T? It's even milder...
according to this page, it's for Eolo too:
http://www.helihobby.com/html/brushless_motor.html

And, one more Q, why most people think Hacker is better than Kontronik? I think Kontronik is made in Germany, how about Hacker? Hacker has less to none information, their website has nothing either, makes me wonder how their build quality is.

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10-07-2005 02:10 AM  12 years agoPost 14
HugeOne

rrKey Veteran

Quebec, Canada

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Don't buy at hell-i-hobby if you care about customer service...

The 12T is a short can version of the C40, it is 3500kv and the 9L is 3333kv so the later one is milder, I think hell-i-hobby is wrong in their spec.

Hacker is made in germany too, some says that hacker, magnets resist heat better than kontronik's.

Lehner and hacker keep their mouth shut as they don't want to see clones of their motors, the Himaxx are of that kind. I think M. Hacker used to work for Lehner before starting is own business, that surely explain why Hacker motors are TOP quality product.

Raptor e620 w/V-bar, Tango 45-06, Phoenix 85HV, TrueRC 12S1P 4000mAh

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10-07-2005 02:12 AM  12 years agoPost 15
jmiceli11

rrApprentice

Erie, PA, USA

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Hackers are also made in Germany. My Hacker runs very cool. A nice an efficeint motor.

Word to the wise be very careful when ordering from Helihobby. More than one account of problems.

Look for the Hacker c40-9L. http://www.aircraft-world.com has them not sure who in the USA has them.

John

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10-07-2005 02:32 AM  12 years agoPost 16
HugeOne

rrKey Veteran

Quebec, Canada

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I think espritmodel.com have them...

Raptor e620 w/V-bar, Tango 45-06, Phoenix 85HV, TrueRC 12S1P 4000mAh

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10-07-2005 04:03 AM  12 years agoPost 17
lovemov

rrApprentice

St. Louis, MO

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Found this here, they said it's for Eolo too.
So I think 12T is ok?

http://www.fxaeromodels.com/product...16da83b22c0ffcf

No place selling 9L;

What about twist 37/33, some good deal there...

If twist33 = 12T/9L, I may go with twist, it's easier to get.

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10-07-2005 08:13 AM  12 years agoPost 18
Buzzsaw46

rrVeteran

Spring Valley, MN.

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I believe the Twist 33 would be very close to the 9L but a bit smaller so it would heat up more.

Ok guys I just checked my HS85bb-GY240/HS81 with the wattmeter and got .9a with the servos just lying on the table no load!

HugeOne, I'm using an S-BEC due to the 5s setup and CC ESC but in the tests I have just used a 2s. Since I'm measuing the the input current that should be exactly what is being pulled through the BEC and what the servos are really drawing would be 15% lower? Either way the digital S3150s are pulling less than the standard Hitecs so one should be more carefull when using the cheaper servos

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10-07-2005 01:24 PM  12 years agoPost 19
cyber-flyer

rrApprentice

Boston, MA

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c40-9L

Got mine last week from espritmodel.com

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10-07-2005 01:44 PM  12 years agoPost 20
HugeOne

rrKey Veteran

Quebec, Canada

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Always tough that digitals pulled more current... thanks for your experiment!

Are the S3150 coreless?

Raptor e620 w/V-bar, Tango 45-06, Phoenix 85HV, TrueRC 12S1P 4000mAh

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