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10-05-2005 05:18 PM  12 years agoPost 1
bandit41

rrNovice

jackson ohio

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is there anyone using the [funkey carbon] and if so are they any count ??? i guess im still lookin for a replacement since my mavericks almost destroyed one of my cals !! flutter !!!

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10-07-2005 12:24 PM  12 years agoPost 2
AutoMike

rrNovice

Seymour In.

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Im using SAB 550's. WOW, amazing is not the word. Full on 3D setup and 1850-1950 rpm on the head and the Cali is a wonderful ride. Like a scalple in the sky

Dang!! Thats going to leave a mark....

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10-09-2005 05:29 AM  12 years agoPost 3
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Odd that you had flutter with Mavs on your Caliber. In the past three years, only one of mine has ever fluttered. All three of mine have been running Mav 550 Fiberglass blades exclusively.

The flutter problem I had was tracked down to the radius block, and too much slop in the two grooves that guide the two pins in the washout block. The slop allows the upper part of the swash to have quite a bit of movement (could grab the washout block and rotate the thing through several degrees). The slop made for a springy collective system.

I replaced the radius block with a new one, and while I was at it, the two levers on the washout block. The new radius block has no slop, and this Caliber is now the best flying of the three I own. And still on those great Mav 550 glass blades.

The radius block is the two-piece plastic assembly just below the MR hub, held together by a couple of screws. The problem seems to be that in molding, the hole for the MR shaft is a bit small. When you tighten down the two screws, the parts flex in the middle, and the slots get wider, resulting in slop. As I see it, you have four options: 1) buy a new part (CA3040) and hope the mold was right and the slots don't distort when you tighten down the screws (I got lucky on mine!); 2) very carefully make the hole for the MR shaft a bit bigger so you can tightent those two screws and not distort the slots, 3) shims between the two halves that allow you to tighten the screws to hold the part tight on the shaft without distorting the slots, or 4) build your own metal radius block as ROYS55 did here on RR. Check his pic:

The CA3040 part costs about $9.00, much cheaper than a new set of CF blades...

Dave

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10-09-2005 02:56 PM  12 years agoPost 4
cootertwo

rrApprentice

Labelle Florida USA

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SAB 550's here on Calibers (2) and SAB 600's on my Raptor 50V2

One Day At A Time

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10-09-2005 09:32 PM  12 years agoPost 5
bandit41

rrNovice

jackson ohio

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problem solved !!!!

i took the fun-key blades off of my other caliber and put em on the 2nd one and they never fluttered once !!! and my 3d buddy rung the poop out of it !! so that leads to the maverick blades wont work on it !!! 50 bucks down the toilet !!!! thanks for all your help guys !!!!

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10-10-2005 12:01 AM  12 years agoPost 6
AutoMike

rrNovice

Seymour In.

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u know bandit, about an hours worth of work re-checking the balance and CG on those blades and you'll most likely get them back into shape. Kinda sounds like the CG on one blade might not match the other one and be a bit too far aft. But if you'd rather part with them PM me. I've never played with that brand of blade before. Mike

Dang!! Thats going to leave a mark....

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10-10-2005 07:50 AM  12 years agoPost 7
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario,​Canada

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i'm using 530mm Funkey's blades with great results, great bang for the buck factor.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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10-10-2005 02:08 PM  12 years agoPost 8
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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Maverikks are good blades and Heliproz stands behind what they sell, I'd be shocked if you called HP and explained what happened, if they didnt do something for you.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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