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Helicopter
e-
Century Radikal E640 - Swift 16 NX
› 3D pro belt drive conversion plus..
11-07-2005 04:59 AM  12 years agoPost 81
alanhsu

rrKey Veteran

Vancouver, Canada

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Hey you guys,

Do you think we can use the T-rex tail hubs and etc instead of HB's.

I am just tired of having the stupid tiny screw left, it just strips so easy.
a belt drive system would remove all the part with that screw except the tail hub, so that's why I want to try a t-rex's tail hub.

I figure everything should fit ok.
I think shaft is the same size, both 3mm.
so all we would have trouble with is the bell crank since the point of attachment on the gearbox is not going to be correct.

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11-07-2005 05:05 AM  12 years agoPost 82
alanhsu

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Vancouver, Canada

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Actually, if someone, perhaps RCRacer ^^ can make a different version of that gearbox which has the tab for bell crank at the right position
the whole T-rex tail stuff can be mounted easily.

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11-07-2005 01:35 PM  12 years agoPost 83
rerazor

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Mich.

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Just make an adapter to move the pivot point if possible.

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11-08-2005 08:14 PM  12 years agoPost 84
johnny b

rrApprentice

Central Coast, CA

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Get the kits out! Guys can get Ark parts from US based distributors and retailers. Get some flight reports and videos!

The world needs a belt-driven tail micro 3d heli that works!

BTW, how about a kit for the Hornet 2's? Shouldn't be too much difference between the kits, right?

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11-10-2005 03:55 AM  12 years agoPost 85
birdmanheli

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Adelaide, South Australia

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alanhsu,

Looking at thTREX tail as next option on th all-belt machine. Should be an easy fix.
Once I get this weekend's indoor meet out the way, will have a new tail version which will accept TREX slider and lever etc.

Building a couple of Belted 3d pros for the local 3D pilots and plan to have some decent video soon.

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11-10-2005 05:18 PM  12 years agoPost 86
CRB68

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Tombstone, AZ

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hey alanhsu,

I have done just that with my 3D Pro and have never looked back.

Check my gallery for a belt drive system for the Pro and HB and Dragonfly heli's.

PJ

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11-10-2005 06:07 PM  12 years agoPost 87
rerazor

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Mich.

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All belt drive is from the motor to the main gear to the tail pulley with one belt. No more gear mesh!!

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11-10-2005 09:50 PM  12 years agoPost 88
birdmanheli

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Adelaide, South Australia

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11-11-2005 06:54 PM  12 years agoPost 89
timb_171

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Norwich UK

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Hi,

on the rc-helitech website the picture of the "complete kit" doesn't seem to have the small 10 tooth tail pulley.

Will it be included in the final kit? or does it need to be ordered aswell?

Also any idea about UK shipping costs?

thanks!

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11-11-2005 07:07 PM  12 years agoPost 90
rerazor

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Mich.

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Yes its included.

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11-11-2005 07:20 PM  12 years agoPost 91
timb_171

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Norwich UK

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wow! quick reply!

one other question

I'm a novice pilot, and say for example I have to ditch into long grass and the tail gets tangled and cannot turn, but the main rotor is still autorotating at ~1500+ - surely something somewhere has got to give!

so my question is, what's most likely to break? - will the belt slip/snap? will teeth strip off the pulleys? or will the tail pulley just unglue from the tail shaft? or will the main shaft snap?

I just wondered so I can order any spares when I order the conversion kit

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11-11-2005 07:35 PM  12 years agoPost 92
rerazor

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Mich.

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Belt will slip. All my tail blades have grass stains .

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11-11-2005 08:16 PM  12 years agoPost 93
cudaboy_71

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sacramento, ca, u.s.

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going into winter, as we are, it is worth noting that belt tension should be watched on these little guys before and after flights.

if you're in your nice, cozy house at 75°-80°F and set the belt perfectly, when you go outside into the cold 40°-50°F, the belt will get really loose ...probably start slipping as soon as you start to feel comfortable flying around. careful you dont dump her because of a too-loose condition.

on the other side of the coin, you're out in your sub-40° weather adjusting your belt tension and get it perfect. now, you're done flying for the day and go back inside to the 75°-80°....next time you go grab your little bird, that belt's gonna be strung up like a banjo.

this is something the big-boys have to deal with on their belt-drive systems. just a reminder that with the micros now going belt-drive we need to mind the ambient temp, too....especially since a tight belt might actually end up pulling something apart on these tiny airframes.

if it ain't broke, break it.

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11-11-2005 10:05 PM  12 years agoPost 94
timb_171

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Norwich UK

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thanks for the info

yet another question

how important are the boom supports? - how strong is the belt drive boom mount vs the stock one?

the reason I ask is, I'm building my 3D Pro into a semi-scale airwolf, and I've removed the skids to mount a CF subframe for the retract mechanism.
It will save me loads of work if I don't have to provide extra support for the boom ( +there's also not much room for the supports inside the fuselage)

and,last thing - I promise

the only mod Ive had to make to the actual heli is, tapping out the skid mounting holes to M3 - will this be a problem with the upgraded boom mount?

Many Thanks,
Tim.
ps. I've only just registered with RR although I've been comming here for six months now. I've not needed to register because every question I've had, I've always been able to find the answer already listed!!
so just to say many many thanks to everyone

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11-11-2005 10:16 PM  12 years agoPost 95
cudaboy_71

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sacramento, ca, u.s.

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IMO (and, its just that--my opinion), the boom supports are not needed.

from what i gathered around here when the 3dpro first came out, the ONLY issues people MAY have had were with the stock gears coming out of mesh during high-g maneuvers...thus requiring the struts.

however, with the belt drive, even if the forces do bend the boom a bit, i dont see any nominal amount of flexing affecting the belt drive setup at all. however, testing will be required for a testament of fact.

to your question about the boom mount itself, it is again my opinion that it is much stronger than the stock mount....for whatever that's worth. i never broke a stock one either. but, the rc-helitech mount is solid.

if it ain't broke, break it.

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11-11-2005 10:36 PM  12 years agoPost 96
timb_171

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Norwich UK

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thanks again for the info!

Payday on tuesday - my order will be placed midnight monday!

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11-11-2005 11:38 PM  12 years agoPost 97
timb_171

rrNovice

Norwich UK

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sorry to be a pain!

but refering back to my previous (previous) post - will I be ok to tap out the skid mounting holes to an M3 size on the upgraded boom mount - will it interfere with the belt guides etc?

also, a matter of ettiquette!

is it better to only ask one question per post and keep the posts short, or, do as I have been doing, and lump a few things together?

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11-11-2005 11:43 PM  12 years agoPost 98
cudaboy_71

rrElite Veteran

sacramento, ca, u.s.

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doesnt really matter. i think ask them all in one post is fine.

however, sometimes peoples attention spans are short and you might not get them all answered.

cant answer the 3mm tap question though...maybe something to direct to rcracer directly.

if it ain't broke, break it.

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11-12-2005 12:01 AM  12 years agoPost 99
rerazor

rrElite Veteran

Mich.

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The boom supports IMHO on the 3D pro do nothing. They are a tension fit and can pull out of the struts very easy. I never used the boom supports. On larger helis the boom supports are bolted to the frame and serve a good purpose to keep the boom from flexing (up/down/left/right)..

You should be able to use M3 bolts with no problem I would think.

I personaly think there is no wrong way of posting or asking questions. Yea, use the search or post away if someone doesn't want to answer/read the post, Oh Well!!!

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11-12-2005 12:15 AM  12 years agoPost 100
timb_171

rrNovice

Norwich UK

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thanks!

don't know who to mention it to, but it might be a good idea to list an email address on the rc-helitech website - since the only way to contact them/him online is through this forum

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Helicopter
e-
Century Radikal E640 - Swift 16 NX
› 3D pro belt drive conversion plus..
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