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Helicopter
e-
Century Radikal E640 - Swift 16 NX
› 3D pro belt drive conversion plus..
12-04-2005 06:20 AM  12 years agoPost 181
friz

rrNovice

Great Bend, KS

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Thanks cuda I feel better about it now. I plan to measure my amp draw after the conversion and settle the question once and for all. My draw is now about 10 amps at full throttle hover between 6-7.

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12-04-2005 11:51 AM  12 years agoPost 182
zoom

rrElite Veteran

Galveston, Texas

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Thanks Cuda, I just have not found any that I use to have since it has been so long since I have done that tail mod. I have asked RCracer to send me some.

Predator, Raptor 30, TRex CCPM 450TH, 3D Pro 400F

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12-04-2005 12:04 PM  12 years agoPost 183
gorn

rrElite Veteran

Western Australia

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Upperking
Regarding your problem with the belt riding high.
I have a belt drive Zoom, and had the same problem.
Here is a detailed explanation of why it happens and how to remedy it.
http://runryder.com/helicopter/t215633p1/
I hope this sheds some light on your problem mate, as it had me scratching my head and cursing for some time

For the love of the hobby

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12-04-2005 01:08 PM  12 years agoPost 184
upperking

rrApprentice

Spring Hill, Florida

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That makes sense gorn, the belt needs to track from the tailbox to the front pulley strait by shimming but with this design I can't shim the front part of the boom, no adjustments up or down no room for play.. any ideas? did anyone do it to your 3dpro with the belt drive? can you show pics?

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12-04-2005 02:49 PM  12 years agoPost 185
gorn

rrElite Veteran

Western Australia

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No shims used mate. All you have to do is pay close attention to the angle of the boom as you apply tension to the screws on the boom mount. Also you can move the angle a bit by moving your boom support mount back or forward. This should keep some tension on the actual boom to keep it in place.
For a belt thats riding upward to high, you need to acually raise the angle of the boom.
Like in the link, turn the rotor blades by hand and play around with the angles to see the effect before you go moving things.
Once you have a physical idea of how it works, then you can play with the angles, tighten up, lowest rotor speed your heli will allow, and watch the effect. I would take the blades off about now, as the last thing you need is a wack in the face lol.
I dont yet have the belt kit for my Hummer yet. Landcruiser needs 4 new tyres before xmas, so Im fresh outa cash till new year
By the way, people in past posts on the Shogun listing have tried all sorts of shimming, and none of it worked. Only by adjusting your angles will you get the desired result.
Dont give up mate, your REALLY close now

For the love of the hobby

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12-04-2005 02:53 PM  12 years agoPost 186
RCRacer

rrNovice

Denver

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Gorn,
Thanks for the post. This makes sense to me as well. I also wonder if there is some bias in the belt. Have you tried flipping the belt over, I have noticed twisting them for shipping that some of the them can only be twisted one direction. One problem in the past was a boom droop from machining, this didn't seem to cause any ill effects. It might have held the belt lower on the pulley.

Upperking,
I understand your frustration, trust me we have not run into this problem before. I want to be able to test the problem out and see what's happening.
I will install a different kit today on my heli, if it works as it should I will plan on shipping it out to you. This could be a manufactoring problem that I have not caught yet. (Been many so far).

Ron

Must fiddle with everything!

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12-04-2005 05:55 PM  12 years agoPost 187
RCRacer

rrNovice

Denver

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I just pulled one of the kits that was to be shipped. I installed the kit and have a few notes. You can see my Heli is a mess, was attempting to redo much of the electrical system.

You can adjust the boom (Up/Dwn) slightly by loosening the screws that mount the adapter plate to the upper frame plate. Very minor changes.

For the belt tension, I turn the blades by hand. When the belt is too loose it will be notchy as the teeth hit one another. Tension it slightly tigher and tigher until this condition just ends. This seems to be the least load that I could find. Also as the belt breaks in and the corners get warn down it should get slightly smoother yet.

When I twisted it my hand I would get 2.5 Revs most every time, I am not sure what this proves other than it should turn easily. I have a simple video but have not figured out how to post it.


This showns where the belt should ride on the main pulley. I used a drill to turn the system, the belt wanted to stay right in this location.

Upperking, I suspect the kit you received might have a machining problem. Before tightening the pulleys to the point that the adapter was distorted where did the belt want to run? Was the boom coming straight out or did it deflect up/dwn?

If you are willing to try another adapter, I will ship this one out on Monday.

Thanks
Ron

Must fiddle with everything!

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12-04-2005 10:41 PM  12 years agoPost 188
rerazor

rrElite Veteran

Mich.

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UP,
Post a pic like rcracer did with the scews loose so we can see what is going on.

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12-05-2005 12:08 AM  12 years agoPost 189
upperking

rrApprentice

Spring Hill, Florida

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I took it all off
and put the crown back on and now the damn crown stripped when i hit a blade of grass

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12-05-2005 12:19 AM  12 years agoPost 190
upperking

rrApprentice

Spring Hill, Florida

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send me that new one and i will try it instead prolly need a new belt to ..

Heres the rub marks on the top of the boomholder from the beltdrive kit..

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12-06-2005 05:58 AM  12 years agoPost 191
friz

rrNovice

Great Bend, KS

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Got mine today and hovered a pack out in the living room. Seemed very good. Can't wait to turn it loose outside.

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12-06-2005 10:28 PM  12 years agoPost 192
upperking

rrApprentice

Spring Hill, Florida

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I got my new motor today and put it on the heli!
I was able to drill out some meat and get it to stop rubbing somewhat and wow what a difference. The tail holds rock solid and I let it loose!!
Its so smooth and quit! the tail goes right where you want it.
I even landed in the deep grass a few times "It would have wounded the crown gears"
but not this belt tail ! didnt faze it a bit!

this is a great mod once it does not rub, once I get the new peices from racer I wont have to worry about rubbing.

Its a great mod cant wait for the new peices "dont trust my Moded version for extreme3d".
Get rid of that crown gear and put this mod on its a must!!!
I have faith back in this bird!!!


I hope to see a alum version soon with bearing idler rollers!!

I dont need a sig.....

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12-07-2005 12:49 AM  12 years agoPost 193
superdave420

rrApprentice

Sunnyvale, CA. USA

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I hope mine showed up today, I have to run home and check. I'm excited about it

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12-07-2005 01:58 AM  12 years agoPost 194
RCRacer

rrNovice

Denver

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Great to hear you got it going. Where did you need to cut material out of? It will help to make sure I don't send out more bad parts

For everyone else, order placed before Nov 29th have all been shipped. Many went out on Monday the 5th. More machining later this week and should be close to catching up by the end of next week. (I hope)

Thanks
Ron

Must fiddle with everything!

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12-07-2005 03:09 AM  12 years agoPost 195
friz

rrNovice

Great Bend, KS

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Mine works great. Draws almost the same amps as the shaft. Maybe a 1/10th of an amp more. Did find that the position of the boom is critical. Mine would ride up on the bearings and rub at high power until I found that the boom supports were distorting the boom slightly. I am considering making the boom supports adjustable with threaded clevises.

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12-07-2005 04:00 AM  12 years agoPost 196
cudaboy_71

rrElite Veteran

sacramento, ca, u.s.

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I am considering making the boom supports adjustable with threaded clevises.
that's a good idea, especially now that i just broke the stock support holder on the boom. good excuse to actually make them functional rather than just ornamental.

i was thinking i'd use something like this:

the threaded piece could be fashioned onto the front end of the support and threaded into the struts (rcracers should take that quite easily). i was just thinking of using a spare ball link to attach to the boom; but i'm still struggling with how to make a) the link thread onto the CF rod and b) how to attach the link to the boom.

if you work anything up before i do, post some pix.

if it ain't broke, break it.

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12-07-2005 04:32 AM  12 years agoPost 197
friz

rrNovice

Great Bend, KS

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Although I have reduced it mine is still having a tendency to ride up on the roller until its riding against the top plate. What is happening is my idler bearings are tilting due to the slight pressure of the belt. this pressure is increasing with power and causing the belt to ride up the idler. I may try to install a bearing at each end of the idler because the one in the middle is allowing it to tilt.


BTW do I need to adjust it until i can no longer hear the teeth on the belt "whining" against each other? If I do this my belt rides up imediately.

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12-07-2005 04:44 AM  12 years agoPost 198
cudaboy_71

rrElite Veteran

sacramento, ca, u.s.

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odd. if anything, my belt rides too low, bordering on getting down on the raised flange. when i spool up it stays about the same spot.

i do have a #2 washer above and below each idler pulley which keeps them from tipping a little...but they can still wobble a bit.

as far as tension goes, i'm running the fiberglass rod now, which is a little narrower than the stock boom. but, on the stock boom running the 380t belt i had no 'belt rub' in the boom, and the belt was fairly loose--i could use a tool to put slight pressure on the top of the belt at the tailbox and almost hit the bottom of the belt. my only objective in setting the tension was to be able to spin the main rotor while holding the tail and not have teeth slip on the pulley.

if it ain't broke, break it.

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12-07-2005 04:47 AM  12 years agoPost 199
upperking

rrApprentice

Spring Hill, Florida

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I took some meat off the top by filing it off then taking a 5/16 drill and from the back side of the mount where the boom enters I reamed it strait through and doing so took meat off the top of the mount under where the idler pullys are, also grooving it to clear the belt, then I used washers on the bottom of the idler pulleys, then bolted it back on with the screws on top using washers, If you don’t use washers the screws will be to long and pop through and will rub the belt.
Also there is a small Alan screw on top of the mount, make sure you back it way out or it will push your boom down and force the belt to ride way to high.. I didn’t even tighent that screw i backed it all the way out for fear of bending it

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12-07-2005 05:08 AM  12 years agoPost 200
friz

rrNovice

Great Bend, KS

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I just put the two washers under the idlers and replaced my idlers with a couple new ones. The bearings in the ones I got with the kit did not seemed to be pressed in the same depth. In other words I pushed the pivot point up and sure enough my belt now rides against the flange on the bottom of the cogged wheel. I guess this is better. I would still like to find a better solution to keep the idlers from tipping.

I guess I might loosen up my belt a little but the sound of the teeth riding together makes me think it will wear prematurely.

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Helicopter
e-
Century Radikal E640 - Swift 16 NX
› 3D pro belt drive conversion plus..
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