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10-04-2005 03:19 AM  12 years agoPost 121
Big-Red

rrNovice

Detroit MI.

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Don't Try This At Home

This Is why you want a cam aboard!!!!!!!

Flight 1

Something i just noticed the 2nd movie is much more unstable and that was a pro-lite 2100 which puts out more amps i wonder if the distortion is from the diff. higher output battery. (flight 1 was a gen 2 tp 2100)

Flight 2

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10-04-2005 10:30 PM  12 years agoPost 122
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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I need to find a good place to upload my vids with a straight link, not to a zip file... and I really hate putfile... I'll look around....
Stpeteheli... just got back rom VaCa and I would definitely go with the newest version.... I just upgraded ops to .12
Big Red... I like the flying man.... I am going to experiment with different headspeeds to see if that changes the distortion....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-04-2005 10:48 PM  12 years agoPost 123
Big-Red

rrNovice

Detroit MI.

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ozydego ,

i have been discussing this effect with some engineers at work and i think we all came to the conclusion that the wobble you see with my bird is a direct effect of the a strobe effect cause by the blades (speed)

my gen 2 battery doesn't get the headspeed that the new gen 3 tp prolites get...........

sorta like when you put a monitor running @ 60 hz near a flourecent light you will see a similiar type of distortion.

i was going to mock up a litttle shade to try to minimize the stobe effect....

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10-05-2005 02:46 AM  12 years agoPost 124
stpeteheli

rrApprentice

St. Petersburg, FL

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Just wanted to say thanks to Big-Red and Ozydego and anyone else who replied to my questions. Everything works fine so far. Just too windy today for any test flights (had a wind gust up to 43mph)

I was a little concerned with my solder job but no magic smoke after power up. That was just as risky as trying to find a 3.4.

Is it pretty safe to try 640X480 using the USP utility?

Thanks again!

Niles

Swift C550, Z30A-800 11T, CC45HV, 7s MaxAmp - 8s eMoli, DX7

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10-05-2005 02:49 AM  12 years agoPost 125
Big-Red

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Detroit MI.

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I read that it locks up somtimes---------- not as stable.....

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10-05-2005 03:57 AM  12 years agoPost 126
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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I haven't got that far yet, I'm still in the changing the startup pics phase.... Glad eveything works for you Pete... now comes the fun part

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-05-2005 04:23 AM  12 years agoPost 127
Big-Red

rrNovice

Detroit MI.

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be very carefull changing the start up and shut down screens if not done right it will stop your cam from booting........

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10-05-2005 02:47 PM  12 years agoPost 128
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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Well, no probs changing screens yet, just the digital logo doesn't show anymore My splash logo shows the whole time now... but idiot me, was playing around with the cam last night, makeshifting a ferrite choke setup, and accidentally applied power in the form of a 12 volt lipo, instead of 4.8 buffered voltage.... this camera is fried literally... I'm going to get a replacement today.... Man, I'm an idiot.....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-05-2005 04:20 PM  12 years agoPost 129
lakespinner2

rrVeteran

north carolina

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Is it possible to do a video wiggle/undulating test by doing a couple of flights and positioning the camera at different distances from the motor and ESC ?

I'm still not convinced it's not the EMF generated by either the ESC or motor affecting the vertical 'sweep' of the camera. It seems there are times when, for instance, the top of the video frame is 'shrunk' down and moving lower when the bottom of the frame is unaffected. If it were vibration woundn't the entire frame all jump around together in the same direction and by the same amount ?

I haven't had time to modify mine yet but I'd like to make a mount so I could mount it out on the tail boom to get it as far away as possible from all the electrical noise.

The distortion resembles my computer monitor when certain cell phones are near it and it rings.

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10-05-2005 06:46 PM  12 years agoPost 130
johnny b

rrApprentice

Central Coast, CA

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Think about running a splice from the black wire on the battery lead side an grounding it on one of the screws used to mount the motor. Supposed to substantially reduce EMF. Saw it in an Hornet 2 related thread for reducing radio glitching. Guy with a radio shack meter said it took EF readings down from 5 bars to 1 bar.

Simple fix. Found the link to that thread, there's a pic of the wiring about 2/3rds down the main page:

http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t136530p1/

Hope this helps

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10-05-2005 06:48 PM  12 years agoPost 131
Hellijunky

rrVeteran

Chicago

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Hey Red

How much would you want to set one up for me and send it ready to go with cables and everything ?

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10-05-2005 07:08 PM  12 years agoPost 132
JiggerInc

rrApprentice

Arlington, VA

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Be careful frying these cams... the easily hacked 3.40 firmware is a rare breed and getting more rare as they're recycled. The 3.62 firmware will be a game of Russian Roulette with your $30 camera. A tip for those cam hunters out there... the cameras with the Dark Grey stickers covering the dataport at the top, and with "Model 200" printed on the bottom should all be 3.40.

The light grey stickered ones could be either 3.4 or 3.62. Anything with Model 100 on the bottom isn't hackable at this point.

Have fun!

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10-05-2005 07:19 PM  12 years agoPost 133
rob10000

rrKey Veteran

Western​Massachusettes

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Hellijunky, look on E-bay, they are going for $50 modified with the cable.
Item #7551803871

I tried several local stores, and they didn't have any of the 3.4 firmware, only the later ones. I probably wasted $20 bucks in gas and alot of time trying to get the right one.

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10-05-2005 08:27 PM  12 years agoPost 134
Big-Red

rrNovice

Detroit MI.

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Ebay is the place.... i saw a couple with cables !!!

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10-05-2005 08:43 PM  12 years agoPost 135
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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Helijunky.... is it you can't find a camera, or don't want to set it up or solder... cause I was able to make one this morning.. since I fried my mine last night... in about 45 minutes... its actually very easy when you use the installer.... after that its just plug and play... We could walk ya through it... or I could make a second one for ya...
Cam $30 (already purchased)
Deans connector $5 (for USB cable)
USB cable $10
Shippng $5-$10
$10 for my time

Ebay sounds like a good deal to me....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-15-2005 07:17 AM  12 years agoPost 136
Hellijunky

rrVeteran

Chicago

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oh man i went and got one from ebay before i read your post oz...lol
i just got it today..i downloaded the CVS Camcorder Quickinstall v2.11
is that all i need to do the hack ?also i have a fataba 401 it uses ch5 is that the only way to power it ?

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10-15-2005 05:36 PM  12 years agoPost 137
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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Well Heli, I now use OPS .13, the installer is 2.13, but yes, thats all you need, but be sure to read the instructions first, as they tell when to plug the cam in, as well as other install notes. I use the power from channel 5 because its an easy way for me to get power to the cam... and its regulated at 4.8 volts which is perfect for the cam. You can wire it seperately using batteries, but why waste the weight.... So I'm guessing that the cam already came wired with a USB plug, to get power, without the case, you may need to modify it slightly, soldering connections over the ones already in place... Post a pic of what the cam looks like from the inside, and I can explain it further.....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-15-2005 07:40 PM  12 years agoPost 138
Hellijunky

rrVeteran

Chicago

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yea it came with a usb connector ,where can i get the OPS 13 ?

here is a pic of the cam


http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/5351/dcp12767os.jpg

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10-15-2005 08:59 PM  12 years agoPost 139
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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Ops .13 with the installer is here

As far as you setup, you will need to solder two more wires to make it work... Here is where you will solder to your cam...

I drew the wires from both the pic and the diagram for reference, so don't let that confuse you, pin 4 is the negative (black) wire and pin 5 is the positive wire (red). These go to the pins on the reciever. The easiest way to do this is to get the kit to make servo connections yourself and make the pins to push into the 401 existing connection. If this seems like too much, the cam can be wired straight to batteries instead, but this way really saves weight....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-15-2005 09:39 PM  12 years agoPost 140
Hellijunky

rrVeteran

Chicago

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thanks oz

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Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
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Other › Ride along in my CDE (stock) jgf 400dh
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