My Posts: All Forum Topic
I have been using QuickUK parts for a while. The head and swash parts definately make manouvres more precise provided you have servos to match. The bearing wear tends to be a little better than with standard TT plastic parts, although a crash usually necessitates replacement of all bearings anyway. I like the solid main shafts as they are they can't be distorted into an oval and cause washout binding.
My only gripe with the swash is that it tends to be slightly restricted in the amount of tilt, particularly at full negative.
I'm not convinced that the QuickUK tail parts are worth it as I have found that tightening the tail belt sprocket grub screw can easily distort the shaft; I prefer the pin and setscrew arrangement as its better for balance and evens out the stresses.
Just to remind everybody, do not use the 18mm setscrews for the tail grips. Use at least 21mm with a washer unter the nyloc. This prevents endfloat problems and moreover, prevents throwing a blade if & when the screw snaps at the base of the hex hole !!!.
I use QuickUK fans simply because they shift more air. However alignment can be a bit tricky - I've often had to bore out the bezel whatnot, then use gentle tapping and red loctite to get a respectable runout - 0.3 thou is a reasonable target. However I'm not VERY impressed with the wall thickness at the clutch mounting flange. I've found varyations as much as 0.08mm (measured around various points). I tend to not use the QuickUK clutches due to bad manufacturing tolerance; there seems to be a great deal of inconsistency with the runout inspite of the fact that they look to be turned on a lathe. The one way bearings also seems not to be very true. This is frustrating for me as I like the idea of an oval hole to spread the shoe load. However, I have never had a clutch failure because I make sure the balance is good and the runout is less than 0.5 thou.
Vegetable rights and Peace