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05-04-2005 06:06 AM  12 years agoPost 1
ThomasNB

rrApprentice

Roeyse, Norway

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i bougth a second hand vigor cs. the mail gear and the bewel gear is rotating together, is it not a one way bearing in there that makes the main gear slip together with the clutch bell, or is mine just broken?

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05-04-2005 06:13 AM  12 years agoPost 2
Saint728

rrProfessor

Honolulu, Hawaii

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Sounds like your one way bearing is stuck or broken? I would take the main and beveled gear out and have a look. I'm pretty sure you need a new one way bearing.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

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05-04-2005 06:53 AM  12 years agoPost 3
ThomasNB

rrApprentice

Roeyse, Norway

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that was what i was afraid of.. hehe. its not an expensive part eiter, to bad it seems like the former owner has tigthend the bolt to hard, making the autorotation unit oval. thanks for your answer.

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05-04-2005 07:34 AM  12 years agoPost 4
Saint728

rrProfessor

Honolulu, Hawaii

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It seems to do it weather you tighten it hard or not. I had a bearing in my one way fall apart after a couple of gallons of fuel. At least the auto hub cost a lot less then it did a couple years ago. You can get one at Rick's for $35.16 plus shipping. Here is a link to buy one. CS Autorotation Hub

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

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05-04-2005 07:53 AM  12 years agoPost 5
ThomasNB

rrApprentice

Roeyse, Norway

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hm. it costs 299 nok here in norway, that equals about 47 dollars..... maby i need to get some more parts and buy them from the states... But i cant seem to get the main shaft out of the body, it seem slike its stuck. rock solid. is it ok to just pull harder?

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05-04-2005 12:36 PM  12 years agoPost 6
onemetre

rrApprentice

Mansfield, Tx - USA

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Loosen the top bearing block. That's what I had to do to remove my main shaft after a crash.

Rob

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05-04-2005 12:50 PM  12 years agoPost 7
wolfdad

rrKey Veteran

Southern Maryland

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If loosening the top bearing block doesn't help, although it is a pain, you may want to remove the entire assembly, which means essentially, splitting the side frames. However, if you purchased it used, you may want to take it down to "parade rest" for a good "look-see" anyway (check all bearings, etc....if it has been sitting on a shelf somewhere, things tend to rust and get sticky). As the "Saint" said, for some reason the auto-rotation units on both the Vigors and Voyagers sometimes are overly sensitive and often benefit from a good dose of lubrication. If you are ordering parts, were I you, I would probably go ahead and order a new main rotor shaft....not that expensive and will come in handy sooner or later. If, once you remove your current MRS, it is not bent (glass test it), then you can chuck it in a drill and using some 1200 grit wet/dry sand paper, polish the entire shaft to get rid of any residual rust corrosion and/or burr's (I do that even with a new shaft to be sure I don't catch a burr when installing it).

Also, be sure you check that tail rotor gearbox for lubrication as well. Every three flights, I check mine and fill it with Triflo if required. And, if this is a stock GRP gearbox, I would also consider replacing it with the M&M Mfg. metal gearbox, also available from Rick's (http://www.ronlund.com) or Rotarsoft (http://www.rotarsoft.com) in the UK. The CS gearbox has a long failure history (GRP gearbox) so, I would consider replacing it asap.

On the subject of Rotarsoft, Mark Christy has an extremely nice line of upgrades for the Vigor CS including a beautiful metal head with close tolerance spindle shaft, bevel gear re-enforcing plate (another near necessity on the CS) and upgraded tail rotor control system. All of Mark's upgrades have been born out of pure necessity (not just bling), are reasonably priced and of the highest quality.

wolfdad sends....

"There are those who have...and, those who will" IRCHA #2117, AMA #70068, Turbine Waiver #105

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05-04-2005 01:28 PM  12 years agoPost 8
Dr Lodge

rrElite Veteran

Guildford, Surrey - UK

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I just received my dose of bling from Mr Christy yesterday, however I believe he's no longer doing the head block/spindle asembly since the Vibe will provide this upgrade path in due course.

Vibe 90, Vibe 50, Vigor CS x2,
Dyna-x, Knight 503D, Logo 10,
TRex 500, Furion, Gaui EP200

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05-04-2005 07:05 PM  12 years agoPost 9
wolfdad

rrKey Veteran

Southern Maryland

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Dr. Lodge,
Man! I sure hate hearing that! Lots of Vigors still out there flying and probably will be for the forseeable future, although I know Mark has to look downstream. Just wonder when we are going to see the Vibe....maybe that should be an "if" question. Has MacGregor's made any predictions on the "when" part of this equation because Horizon sure isn't saying a thing.

wolfdad sends.....

"There are those who have...and, those who will" IRCHA #2117, AMA #70068, Turbine Waiver #105

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05-05-2005 03:44 AM  12 years agoPost 10
atvracer

rrVeteran

Transplanted to Oklahoma

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CS Autorotation Hub when mine went out and lockup I got a peace of lather but anything would work stick it between the two gears and grab the head and spin it forward. it may(will) take some force but it should release


atvracer

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05-05-2005 04:15 AM  12 years agoPost 11
Saint728

rrProfessor

Honolulu, Hawaii

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A better way to unlock the gears is to have one person hold both sides of the main gear while another person moves the head backwards. I use a towel to hold the gear in my hand, it's easier to get a good grip on them.

The reason the auto gear locks up is because the casing that holds the bearings in breaks really easily. After you pull the main gear out and look inside the one way bearing, you will probably see where one or more of the case that holds all the bearings in cracked and the bearing gets stuck and wedges itself against the main shaft. I've had two of my auto hub one way bearings do this. I think it happends because it wears away the metal after it spinning around on the main shaft. I'm not sure all of them happen like this, but I do know mine did and it's good to check to see if yours is doing the same thing?

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

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05-06-2005 01:46 PM  12 years agoPost 12
wolfdad

rrKey Veteran

Southern Maryland

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Saint,
Precisely! Case gets thinned through wear, takes one good whack (even a hard landing will do it) and that's the end of that. And, what's worse, the cracks are extremely difficult to see. Almost a diagnosis by symptom problem.

wolfdad sends...

"There are those who have...and, those who will" IRCHA #2117, AMA #70068, Turbine Waiver #105

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05-06-2005 02:15 PM  12 years agoPost 13
BladeRunner

rrElite Veteran

Ontario Canada. Member of "some sort" s

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Is there a fix for this problem? Like an aftermarket piece? Or is there something else that can be done to prevent this??.......

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05-07-2005 03:38 AM  12 years agoPost 14
atvracer

rrVeteran

Transplanted to Oklahoma

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Is there a fix for this problem

well when i got my New one about year ago the guy at my LHS said there are better now ???? but mine is still working fine after 15 gallons or so with a 91 in it

atvracer

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05-09-2005 07:05 PM  12 years agoPost 15
ThomasNB

rrApprentice

Roeyse, Norway

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Curtis yougblood claimed the auto hub to have nothing to do with the failure, but the main shafts have been known to not be hardend enough, causing the hub to lock. read that on his website. thanks for all answers, i have fixed my problem, and ended up buyins some new parts and ballbearings as some of the ones in my maschine wasn't glued in with locktite from before, causing the clutch bell to loose its ballbearing mount ans some of the bb's was just dry and sounded BAD....

waiting for parts and looking forward to first fligth

Thomas

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