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MS Composit › Tip Weighted / Foolish Experiment?
05-02-2005 07:40 AM  12 years agoPost 1
Swashplate

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UK

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I had a pair of non wieheted tip blades lying around for sometime, I thought I would do this



Any suggestion or comments welcome.
Thanks

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05-02-2005 03:10 PM  12 years agoPost 2
MBird

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Central Europe

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Hello,
interesting pictures... I'm not an expert (yet) however, IMHO from what I can see I would be affraid to fly with blades modded like this... As I said, I don't know much about RC Heli flying (complete green beginner here) but I think the blades should be weighted in pairs so the weight is distributed equaly (now i don't know if you understand me, since my english is not that strong). I mean CoG wise. If you shift the weight even slightly, then at the full head/blade rotation speed even small shift in weight distribution between blades can result in a nasty vibration...

Now... this is what they call "to make a bad impression"... first post and it is a negative one... ehh...

Sincerely,
MB

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05-02-2005 03:49 PM  12 years agoPost 3
Blade-X

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Singapore

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I've done what u did... unless u really really like a fast bird, that's not the reccommended way to weight blades. And i can see that there's not enough solder. that's probably like 1.5 inch length of solder per blade. u need at least 9 inches to get above 1gram....

Also,U need to fill up the hole with CA and baking soda then sand it down to shape.....

A little work and effort goes a long long way on a hornet 2. When u cut corners u simply short-change yourself.

Do a google for DIY MS weighted blades. I know the Hornet forum is down at the moment. But we're here to help. Please give extra details of how u did to get what u got in the picture.... for ur sake i hope that's Ca u glued them down with and u've not spun up the rotor yet.

Dun be too upset, the only thing u did write was that u did cut the holes very nicely.

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05-03-2005 03:26 AM  12 years agoPost 4
Dr. Fibinotchi

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Sioux Falls SD

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hmm.
looks interesting. What the guys recomend above it good. On a 1800rpm its like 6:1. at near what do you guys run 2600rpm? I am sure the balance rotational mass gets more like 10:1. ounce off at 1 inch=10 ounces. Just go for balance as good as you can.

-Cody

If you want others to be happy, practice compassion. If you want to be happy, practice compassion.

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05-03-2005 11:36 PM  12 years agoPost 5
Swashplate

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UK

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Blade X:

, No I havent mounted the blades. Still running my Like90s (they dont boomstrike ). I tried reinforcement tape (as suggested in one of the posts here) on this blade, Even then I had to write off a HS50 because It blew into pieces, many of which I could not find.

Thought I would try it on these blades(worth 30quid) as it was lying aside for ages doing nothing.

Yes, I soaked the hole with glue and inserted about 2inches of solder it.

Would it be a good idea to melt solder generously into the crevice? Oh, and the hole - I spent about and hour with my hobby knife and screw driver to dig it.

And yes I wouldnt have mounted it without balancing them anyway. I havent done it yet as was a bit tied up with other things.

Thanks for that guys, keep them coming in.

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05-04-2005 01:14 AM  12 years agoPost 6
OT45

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Kingston, NY

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rameshpat,

I would not melt the solder into the slot. It will run and you will have no control over balance. Not to mention the heat could weaken the epoxy used in the layup. I CNC milled the slots to accept lead shot into the original stock blades. The key is to make the slots the perfect size and identical on both blades. Also I suggest using JB weld which is thick to prevent adhesive runoff inside the hollow blades when bonding the lead shot. Walt documented his mod on the Hornet forum. I suggest following his method.

scratch building is not just for planks

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05-04-2005 03:10 AM  12 years agoPost 7
Blade-X

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Singapore

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U inches of solder wont be enough. but it's your blade and your call.

Adding JB Weld to mount would help. When i last weighted mine, i used CA and baking soda for attachment.... i'd soda powder at the root as well ( I broke the blade and found out). Juet remember to keep the aerofoil shape as it was after u've finished weighting it.

U'll need to balance the blades to help. A good way would be to disengage the oneway and main gear, hold ur hornet 2 vertical and balance the whole head with the blades on. This way the blades would pivot on the main shaft bearings and u dun have to spend 25-30 USD on a balancer.

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05-04-2005 06:08 PM  12 years agoPost 8
OT45

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Kingston, NY

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Blade-X

Good idea about the balancing. I'm just wondering if the bearings don't add too much friction for accurate balancing. II'll have to try your method some time. I usually use a long 080 screw with brass bushings on razor blade fulcrum. Works very well and is cheap. There is a pic of it in my gallery.

scratch building is not just for planks

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05-04-2005 06:28 PM  12 years agoPost 9
spinfree

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vancouver washington

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OT 45
are those blades painted or heat shrink?
the razorblade balancer looks great i use same method only on my vise yours looks to be much less friction.
great Idea
thanks
Thor

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05-05-2005 01:39 AM  12 years agoPost 10
OT45

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Kingston, NY

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Thanks spinfree. The blades are painted. I just keep adding paint until they are in balance.

scratch building is not just for planks

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05-05-2005 03:17 AM  12 years agoPost 11
Blade-X

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Singapore

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Thanks OT45, but credit goes to "ammo" for sharing this method with us that he used to tame his Zoom vibes. The plus point is that this method of static balancing allows you to balance up to the whole head as well. And it's really sensitive as well. I dun see any problems with friction.

OT45,
those blades are neat! Are they difficult to make? I seem to recall u writing a thread on fabricating ur own blades. Is it expensive? I broke my stock ones which i weighted and am looking for cheaper alternatives....

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05-05-2005 06:01 PM  12 years agoPost 12
OT45

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Kingston, NY

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When you factor in the materials and time, it costs more to make your own blades than to buy them. Making them is not very difficult. It just becomes a bit involved. Making good molds is the key. Layup, adding a foam insert and lead is quick but trimming carbon and balancing is a pain.

scratch building is not just for planks

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06-27-2005 08:31 PM  12 years agoPost 13
Swashplate

rrKey Veteran

UK

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A couple of weeks backs i did some mods as suggested by you guys. The Result:

Top View:

Bottom View:

Please ignore the fracture near the corner for the moment, it was damaged in a crash after test flying 12-15 battery packs and trying nose in

The closeups of fractured blades are in my galllery.

I have CA'd them, balanced, they work fine. I would probably use 5min epoxy and cover it.

It was suggested that i use Baking Soda. I will do it. But excuse my ignorance here, what does baking soda do?

Thanks very much.

ps. I would have burnt about 25 packs until now including about 10 packs after crash and reCAing. I am pleased, no vibes, track perfect.

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06-28-2005 12:58 AM  12 years agoPost 14
OT45

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Kingston, NY

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Baking soda is usually used by some with cyanoacrylate glue. It makes the glue "kick" faster. The result can be sanded a bit easier than straight cyano. It possibly also makes a weaker joint but is fine for filling. BTW its the moisture in the baking soda that accelerates the cure of the adhesive...

scratch building is not just for planks

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06-28-2005 05:10 PM  12 years agoPost 15
Swashplate

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UK

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OK, so it is not abosolute necessity to use baking soda unless you are in a rush .

Does the mod look OK, or should i be expecting something (disaster )?

I have very little experience, any advice would be much appreciated. For me, it looks like it is doing the job perfect considering 1) I have always flown Woodies and 2) I only hover and some forward flights. and having burnt considerable number of battery packs.

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06-28-2005 09:24 PM  12 years agoPost 16
OT45

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Kingston, NY

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It's hard to tell from the pics if the repair is okay.
Are both pics of the same blade? If so, It looks to me you cut the slot for the lead through both skins! That is not the proper way to do it. That weakens the blade and gives less bond area for the lead!!! If that's the case I would not fly with them.

scratch building is not just for planks

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