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Align
Other › Anyone 3D’ing a T-Rex?
04-01-2005 01:10 PM  13 years agoPost 1
Paul_C

rrVeteran

Limpopo, South Africa

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Howdy dudes!


I’m thinking about getting a T-Rex, but want to be able to 3D. Are any of you 3D’ing your T-Rex? If so, how does it perform, what kind of manoeuvres can you do with it, and what is your setup? Any other comment regarding performance and quality are welcome too.

I currently have a Raptor 30v2 with 3d mods, an Eco 8, and a piccolo.

Many thanx in advance…

Paul.

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04-01-2005 01:11 PM  13 years agoPost 2
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Videos all over the place....including the Align website.

Dave

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04-01-2005 02:09 PM  13 years agoPost 3
mudbogger2

rrKey Veteran

Hoschton,Ga.

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I 3d mine!

Mega 16/15/4 10 tooth pinion
5S1P 1320 thunder power batts.
cc25 esc
medusa bec
325 carbons
stretch kit
401 gyro
al's ccpm mod
3 hs-56
1 hs-50

Tic-tocs, piro flips ,funnels, rolling circles,ect....

only thing it won't do is auto very good.

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04-01-2005 03:11 PM  13 years agoPost 4
Coolpowered

rrKey Veteran

Youngstown, ohio

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I see you have a raptor 30, the t-rex will out perform it easily.

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04-01-2005 03:36 PM  13 years agoPost 5
Paul_C

rrVeteran

Limpopo, South Africa

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Yes, I can see so from the videos I have downloaded – selling my hardly-flown raptor and getting a T-Rex is making more and more sense – especially considering I’ll get about 50 times more 3d’ing as I’ll then be able to fly it at the park across the road.

Besides… I'm growing increasingly more intolerant of fuel, noise, smoke, heavy field boxes, and cleaning – not to mention travelling 25Km to get to somewhere where I can fly a Raptor!

What about the Align 400 motor? Not a good choice?

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04-01-2005 04:22 PM  13 years agoPost 6
WRXRonald

rrKey Veteran

Auburn, OH

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...
search around... align 400 is not the choice if you are heavy into the 3d...

try searching any of these motors...

Neu, Lehner, Mega 4 turn, Warp, etc........ newbie to Trexys... go here for a good breakdown of what you'll want to do some impressive 3D... site is dedicated soley to trexys and review of all the stuff that goes with them. become familiar with it and you could likely save yourself many of the headaches we've already had while getting to know this heli and it's quirks, and it's part's quirks.

t r e x t u n i n g . c o m (less the spaces inbetween of course)....

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04-01-2005 09:32 PM  13 years agoPost 7
korzry

rrApprentice

Fort Collins, CO

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What's with the spaces in "t r e x t u n i n g . c o m"? Will MR close this post down or something?

Ryan

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04-01-2005 09:34 PM  13 years agoPost 8
WRXRonald

rrKey Veteran

Auburn, OH

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....
if you type it normally...

it populates looking like this...

http://www.trextuning.com


ok... well now its working fine... but used to be when you typed in trextuning... for some reason this site would automatically reword it to "trexspaming.com" i don't know why, but now it appears fixed.

thanks.

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04-05-2005 06:00 AM  13 years agoPost 9
ScottH

rrApprentice

Long Beach, Ca.

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The T-Rex will 3D just fine stock, or stock with the stretch kit. Piro snakes, piro loops, etc. It does take a great pilot, but the heli is capable. It will also auto just fine on the long carbon blades and the driven tail removed.
I am NOT the capable pilot, just the willing owner of the heli.....
Scott

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04-05-2005 09:45 AM  13 years agoPost 10
electron_flyer

rrApprentice

Cape Town, South Africa

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It seems to handle the wind better than the ECO, higher disk loading I think.
However, it is harder to 3D than a R30 I found, a skilled pilot will have no problem with it, but im finding it harder to learn 3d on the Trex as it is so much quicker responding (to mistakes too!) and visibility can be a problem if you stay several mistakes hight as it gets small really quickly! So one ends up spending a sphincter clenching time a little too low for comfort.

Did I mention this thing is FAST!!!!? It has double the climb rate of my R30 and moves out to about 60km/hr in a couple of seconds. One ends up having to do continuos turns and reversals to keep it in sight in FF! The ECO and R30 are much more relaxing to fly, but then, thats not the point of this thread eh?!

At least the spares are reasonable, and the heli seems much more rugged than the fragile ECO8, I feel Im gonna need a lot more of em till I get the feel of this sporty little heli!

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04-14-2005 01:52 PM  13 years agoPost 11
Paul_C

rrVeteran

Limpopo, South Africa

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Well, after doing some research, downloading some videos, and checking out the T-Rex at the LHS, I am the excited new owner of a T-rex! Got the Align 120 deg swash (oh so nice!) and built it with eCCPM using 9g JR servos mounted strait into the side frames, a faster GWS servo on tail. I don’t have a motor yet, but the LHS will be getting stock of the WARP4 soon, until then, I’m going to try a 40g 160W kit outrunner motor which I acquired really cheap at an electric event, after I wind it appropriately of course.

I must say, this was a really pleasurable little heli to build, very good quality and precision for a micro, and even compared to some larger helis. The head was impressively free even before I ‘ran in’ the linkages. I put in a speed 400 6v motor just to adjust the tracking, and it was perfect! Even got to hover a little with the speed 400 (with kokam 1500 3s) and it seemed both stable and responsive, but could hardly get out of ground-effect, and only while the motor was cool. The wooden blades needed a lot of tape to get balanced, and a small piece of tape on one paddle, but otherwise it’s a really smooth running, vibration-free heli. I am most pleased and can’t wait to get a powerful motor into this thing.

Just had to share.

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04-14-2005 02:59 PM  13 years agoPost 12
richie1967_uk

rrVeteran

London UK

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how do you remove the driven tail???

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04-16-2005 07:16 AM  13 years agoPost 13
ScottH

rrApprentice

Long Beach, Ca.

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To remove the driven tail:
You must remove the middle of the center section of the lower gear, so that the jesus bolt only goes thru the metal collar for the one-way bearing. Leave the plastic that centers the lower gear on the main gear. Basically, you are drilling about a 1/2" hole in the middle, doing away with the lower nub and making room for the auto-hub bushing thing to rotate. Then, attach lower gear to main gear. I use small zip ties, rotated so the nubs don't hit anything around the spokes. The shape of the spokes holds the ties in perfect place.
Sounds hokey, but it works, with no failures to date. When my main gear got stripped from a crash, I just cut the ties, replaced the gear, replaced ties, and off I went. If zip ties arent your thing, you can get small screws to hold the two gears together, but its a pain.
As far as the filming of auto's,
I am done doing them. I got 3 down, with even a bit of hover at the bottom, but the 4th, I pancaked it in. It started to piro 10 feet off the ground, so I concentrated on correcting with cyclic. Forgot to flare and add pitch. Oops. Boom and skids needed replacement. You have to bomb the heli so fast towards the ground, and the flare and collective have to be perfect. More nerve racking then fun...
Scott

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