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Zoom › Belt Drive, Better plastic Gears for tail drive?
03-30-2005 04:00 PM  13 years agoPost 1
Metallikiller

rrNovice

Pittsburgh, PA - United States

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I must admit this little heli flies great now that I've got everything tweaked. But I am disatisfied with the gear that mates with my motor which drives the tail. What should I do to fix pre-mature wear? I flew last night for about 7 mins no crashes no hard landings and the gear is hosed. I am running the 400 DH motor as well. I was thinking this high end motor could be the cause as it was not rated for the quality of plastic used in the tail drive crown gear?

Belt drive(which one do I buy where to get it)?

Better plastic gear(which one blue one or other type)?

Please give me some feed back which is the better way to go, you know pro's and cons of each.

**Soldier boy, made of clay now an empty shell. Twenty one, only son. But he served us well.**

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03-30-2005 04:39 PM  13 years agoPost 2
wings

rrApprentice

Stafford, UK

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Hi,

belt drive is very popular as many will tell.

I have used gears (standard protech input and beveled output)succesfully for a good while now tho, 7 mins flying should not strip a tail input gear unless something is wrong, are you sure you got the lash set right, that part is critical. I have flown several dozen flights on the same gear now with no signs of too much wear yet. I would recommend puting some extra sealed bearings in the boom though if you do stick with gears, there is definately a lot of vibes in there without !!

I personally wouldn't give up on gears just yet unless you're happy to part with a good sum for a belt drive upgrade. Maybe you just had a badly manufactured gear.

NOTE!*!*! *!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!*!

I'm not trying to start up the old belt vs gears rift again, i really actually like the idea of belt drive and some day i'll likely upgrade. I just think that sometimes gears aren't given the credit they're due.

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03-30-2005 04:40 PM  13 years agoPost 3
c/f

rrApprentice

Evansville, IN, USA

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Not so,

I have about 5 hours use on a 4000DH and the stock gear. The 8T pinion on the motor is showing more signs of needing replacement than does the input gear.

IMHO what you may not realize is the tail rotor drive shaft beit carbon or aluminum will shift laterally in the boom so the combination of gear mesh both sides should never be so great as to accumulate to one side and cause it to slip and destroy.

I am convinced the stock driveshaft is fine. here is my way of doing things, If using carbon I use 4 bearings, one at each end and one 5 " from one end and the other 4" from other end. I then Ca the bearing inner race to the shaft. I then insure all the indents are removed from boom and shaft slides in/out for service if needed. I generally lube the shielded bearings on occasion. Then you can set the gear flush on the motor side then on the T/R side its a balnce of using the gearbox shaft and sanding end of carbon shaft to get the proper mesh so that by pusing the carbon shaft within boom fore/aft that no mesh is to great to strip.

I also bought the sparrow aluminum shaft cause I am wanting to get to the point that one gear is the weakest link and shears first salvaging all others from repair/replace. I like the aluminum same set up with bearings because no need for Ca. I use my hand tool for crimping pins for servo lead pins. It holds shaft in center and makes to line hash marks by applying slight pressure. This allows the bearing to slide up on hash indents by hand easily yet never slips on ID.

I'm now at the point of a hybrid shaft, I am using the aluminum shaft for the front hex and first 1" with bearing near end. Then a piece 3mm ID tubing is used as a coupler to allow use of remainder of carbon fibre. A fifth bearing was used on other side of tube coupler. Using Ca' wicked within coupler it is more than adequate to hold. My goal is to find the right bonding on either the aluminum portion or the carbon portion to create a weakest link decoupling if you will.This 5 bearing hybrid is really smooth, no longer have any vertical fin vibe at any spool up rpm. My vertical fin is 3" long below tail and is of .030" carbon so it is a nice sign of vibes.

Well hope I have'nt confused you further........good luck.......Belts not for me. I like the non destructive forces of a 450gram flying Shogun.
Power combo of climbouts with the 4000DH is just plane awesome.

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03-30-2005 04:48 PM  13 years agoPost 4
Metallikiller

rrNovice

Pittsburgh, PA - United States

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more advice please.
I'm assuming my backlash is incorrect. Help with setting back lash. This is the 4th gear in 1 week , help.

**Soldier boy, made of clay now an empty shell. Twenty one, only son. But he served us well.**

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03-30-2005 06:28 PM  13 years agoPost 5
playfair

rrKey Veteran

Rochester, NY

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I simply set the lash so there is some...

Find the "high point" of the gear mesh (the tightest it will get), and back it off there is a tiny bit of slop. If the gears are "bottomed out", they wear quickly and add undo torque to the sytem.


The sky is our canvas

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03-30-2005 11:08 PM  13 years agoPost 6
c/f

rrApprentice

Evansville, IN, USA

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Set it so close that if you rock one back and forth against the other there is some minascual play, but if you try to go closer the play is gone, meaning rocking one the other turns as well. The closer the better but must have some freeplay with mating gear both ends of driveshaft.

Like I said earlier you really cannot lock the drive shaft down laterally in the boom from shifting thus finding its own dynamic center fore/aft or else it would be non servicable, so take this into consideration cause the sum of both ends gear clearance will ultimately end up to one side

This is my point that may explain such unsatisfactory results with drive shaft.

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03-31-2005 04:30 AM  13 years agoPost 7
Metallikiller

rrNovice

Pittsburgh, PA - United States

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No more wear
The problem was the gap on the gear.

Boy this little baby can get away from you in a hurry.

hehe


thanks all

**Soldier boy, made of clay now an empty shell. Twenty one, only son. But he served us well.**

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03-31-2005 02:33 PM  13 years agoPost 8
jhc10

rrNovice

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I bought a set of nylatron and vespel gears. I've run several packs through the nylatron and there is no sign of wear.

Apparently nylatron is much stronger than the blue gears and vespel is much stronger than nlyatron. Apparently vespel is the toughest industrial grade plastic out there at $20+ an inch.

Anyway RChover carries them or you can buy it from the guy that makes them (not me) chrisquagliana@comcast.net

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03-31-2005 03:20 PM  13 years agoPost 9
RC-Hawk

rrApprentice

Westminster Colorado

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Wings....
(Sorry, I do not wish to hijack this post and turn it into something else, but I do have a question)
I was just looking at your heli pages .
Do you have any "more detailed" pics of your case. I noticed in some of your flight pics, there is an aluminum case on the ground in front of you and it would appear to be just the right size for everything to fit.
Would you be willing to share what you have done? (please)

Thanks

Hawk III 46 -- Raptor 30 -- Hummingbird Elite CP -- Shogun

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03-31-2005 04:40 PM  13 years agoPost 10
wings

rrApprentice

Stafford, UK

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RC_Hawk - I would love to take credit for this one, but i cant.

http://helibits.com/customer/produc...&cat=314&page=2

I wasn't sure about spending that sort of money on a case, but it has turned out to be a very worthy investment. I'm taking my kit across to France for a wedding next month so it should be even more useful.

Not sure where you'd get one outside the UK tho.

If anyone has any kool ideas on cutting foam let me know - its the really soft spongy stuff. I want to cut out some sections for extra batts and tools etc. Cheers.

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03-31-2005 10:20 PM  13 years agoPost 11
c/f

rrApprentice

Evansville, IN, USA

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Try using an electric carving knife used for carving meats ...ie turkey/ham etc........

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04-04-2005 06:26 PM  13 years agoPost 12
RC-Hawk

rrApprentice

Westminster Colorado

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I have cut ht esame foam with a very sharp X-acto blade.
I have also found that the blade from a carpet knife works well.
As long as the blade is real sharp, it will cut the foam well.

Hawk III 46 -- Raptor 30 -- Hummingbird Elite CP -- Shogun

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04-05-2005 12:58 AM  13 years agoPost 13
BlakeMcBrayer

rrElite Veteran

Georgetown, Ky

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I have over 80 hours on my belt drive with no failures! Yes it may use a tad more power than gears, but at least it's not failing!

Here is the only way to go in my mind: http://www.heliworkz.com/

Install it and forget it! HubDave's customer service is the best in the hobby!

Don't come off the throttle untill you see your GOD!

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04-05-2005 04:55 PM  13 years agoPost 14
Hoverdown3K

rrKey Veteran

Rochester, New York

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Get a Belt drive and you will NEVER have a gear problem again, that is the fix plain and simple.

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04-06-2005 07:34 AM  13 years agoPost 15
wings

rrApprentice

Stafford, UK

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cheers RC-Hawk & c/f for the cutting suggestions, will have a go this weekend.

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