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HelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › How to seal muffler to engine?
03-28-2005 06:13 PM  13 years agoPost 1
RCfun

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Denmark

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I have a Zimmermann 2615 on my OS 50 Hyper. The bolts go all the way through and is fastened with 2 nuts on each bolt. They are pretty tight. Still it seems that oil escapes between the engine and the muffler. How can I seel this connection. I thought about making a gasket but do not know what I should use to make it. Can someone please provide some advice.


/RCfun.

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03-28-2005 06:19 PM  13 years agoPost 2
Ashdec87

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chicago suburbanite

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A little smear of epoxy works great

R 30, TT 39, Hatori 415, GY401

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03-28-2005 06:22 PM  13 years agoPost 3
ShempHoward

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San Francisco, Ca - too many beggars + bad drivers

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I have had very good success using a thin layer of High Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket sealer found at most Automotive Supply Shops.

The brand I use is made by Permatex but other companies make this same item.

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03-28-2005 06:30 PM  13 years agoPost 4
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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I would use the epoxy too, I have seen too many posts with problems because of the use of silicone breaking free and fouling the plug. Chris

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03-28-2005 06:53 PM  13 years agoPost 5
RCfun

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Denmark

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So you say I should just mix some epoxy and smear a small layer onto the the muffler? Can I use 30 min epoxy? Wont it melt with the heat from the engine?

I was thinking of making maybe a paper gasket. Some of of my plank engines came with a gasket for the muffler that feels like thick paper.

/RCfun.

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03-28-2005 06:59 PM  13 years agoPost 6
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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It works fine, I have to heat mine to get it off. I have only used 5 min so I don't know for sure, but I would give it a try. Make sure both are clean, very light smear. Chris

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03-28-2005 07:00 PM  13 years agoPost 7
rstacy

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Rochester, NY

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A paper gasket will soon fail.
Red RTV can work but I always seem to get a piece in the plug and kill the engine.
5 minute epoxy has worked well for me for three years.

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03-28-2005 07:04 PM  13 years agoPost 8
BarracudaHockey

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Jacksonville FL

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Or better yet, make sure all the mating surfaces are clean and bolt it up. Fly till it gets hot, land and snug the bolts. Should be all you need if the mating surfaces are true.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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03-28-2005 07:13 PM  13 years agoPost 9
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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Explain fly until it gets hot then snug bolts, everything expands when hot, so why is it not better to just tighten when cold, then as the parts expanded it would become tighter as it heats. Not being confrontational just looking for the reason. Chris

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03-28-2005 07:31 PM  13 years agoPost 10
DS 8717

rrProfessor

Here wishing i was somewhere else

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I use a real thin layer of JB WELD. It will still come apart when you need it to.

YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE..IF YOU LIVE IT RIGHT THATS ALL YOU NEED

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03-28-2005 08:09 PM  13 years agoPost 11
AlanR8

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Saddleworth near Manchester (UK)

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I do what barracudahockey does.

NO silicone and NO epoxy. What he means is fit the exhaust on the bench, go fly, and after the first flight just tweak up the bolts whilst it's still warm.

Go fly LOADS before it needs any attention!

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03-28-2005 08:24 PM  13 years agoPost 12
ShempHoward

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San Francisco, Ca - too many beggars + bad drivers

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I have been using the Silicone High Temp RTV gasket sealer for many years on both Planes and Helis without ny incidents regarding it ever getting into the engine. If you are careful with it there will be no problems. I guess some people just slather it on too thick and then complain later about it not working.

Epoxy works as well. My Weston UK pipe on my Raptor 60 came with directions to use epoxy but I chose the Silicone RTV and have never regretted it.

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03-28-2005 09:51 PM  13 years agoPost 13
BarracudaHockey

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Jacksonville FL

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The aluminum and the bolts expand at different rates.

Is the same theory as putting your engine in the oven for a few minutes then the bearings drop right out.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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03-28-2005 10:03 PM  13 years agoPost 14
Ted Toth

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Myrtle Beach S.C.

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I agree with rstacy on a chance of gasket material
getting on top of the cylinder and causing glow plug failure
I lap all my muffler flanges on a flat steel surface, you
can use a piece of carbide wet or dry abrasive cloth.
then after the engine comes to temperature re-tighten the bolts


.

You don't stop laughing because you grow old, you grow old because you stopped laughing.

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03-29-2005 01:05 AM  13 years agoPost 15
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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Barracudahockey, I understand that the metals expand at different rates, the aluminum should expand faster thus keeping a force on the bolts which won't expand as fast as they are a steel alloy, as you stated in your analogy. I guess that the aluminum could expand so fast that the torque on the bolt lessens, but it will not just expand away from the threads it will also grow in length. You should not be able to put more torque on the bolts, as the aluminum threads and bolt should be tighter when hot. Chris

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03-29-2005 01:10 AM  13 years agoPost 16
littleman

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Pasadena, Ca

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i used Rtv on my os 32 and it worked fine and i now use 5 min epoxy on my westons and it works fine the only i difference I keyword I have found is that epoxy stinks and is a pain in the butt to get off. go with what youo fell comfortable with. as people have said there is achance to get rtv in the engine but hey your heli. personally id go with the epoxy as it does burn off the extra.
my .02
A.J.

Proud member of Teams Castle, MSH USA, Futaba, Scorpion, & Nick Maxwell Products

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03-29-2005 01:38 AM  13 years agoPost 17
drmgcm

rrApprentice

Anywhere

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I have to go with the epoxy myself, been doing it this way for years and never had a problem, i use the slow set epoxy and let it cure for 24hrs, still check the bolts and nuts after the first flight, i guess everyone has there own way of doing things which work best for them.

Regards

Dmac

IRCHA: 2528 AMA: 849513 R50V2, OS 50 Hyper, MPII, GY601, TJPro, 9CHP & Cool Power 30%

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03-29-2005 02:06 AM  13 years agoPost 18
jkelly

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Bedford, PA

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A super thin layer of RTV works great. I use the shaft of a screwdriver to spread it on. Then I use a twisted up napkin to clean the edge near the exaust. It only takes a tiny bit and it has never leaked for me. I have never fouled a plug in 12 years. Removal is easy and it wipes right off.

I bought an engine that was epoxied and bits of epoxy were ingested in the port and the piston and ring had severe scratches. I could see light pass through where the scratches were. I doubt silicone would do that if it made its way into the cylinder but like I said it takes a very tiny amount. There is no reason to cake it on for it to spread out.

If you want to make or buy paper gaskets that will work too but soak them in thin oil to saturate the material before assembly. Generally they will loosen up after a while if you don't. They also degrade over time.

I'd rather use nothing than epoxy but we all have our preferences. Good luck finding what works best for you.

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03-29-2005 09:04 PM  13 years agoPost 19
wouter

rrApprentice

Belgium

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i used RTV and epoxy.
but now i only use epoxy (my own preference)

i once had some RTV get into the engine gumming up
against the plug...
(on the other that's also an advantage: if it gets in the engine it doesn't
hurt too much where epoxy could make scratches.)

i never had epoxy in the engine even though sometimes a little bit gets
on the inside of the exhaust port.
(not easy getting the muffler on and keeping it completly still will bolting
on the nuts )


also if you use a little more resin than hardener it stays a little flexible
when it's dry.

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03-29-2005 10:22 PM  13 years agoPost 20
sharam

rrElite Veteran

Northern California - Fly at Morgan Hill Field

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I just screw on the muffler, go fly, land and tighten some more while the engine is still pretty hot, and then just go fly - no RTV, no gasket. Has worked fine on all my nitro ships so far; no leaks or loose botls.

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HelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › How to seal muffler to engine?
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