yes is 9650

i looked for my mh ccpm swash and it has "same problem" of slop in the center ball (at least 1mm), anyway i think this slop doen't affect in anyway the flight performance, shouldn't be so?
in fact there is absolutely no slop between the 2 plates.

Very Nice Nam....

Looks like you have the twin to mine...so how does it fly???

I can say the Lehner has lots of power so much that I cut the throttle down to 70%, on mid-timing, I should have tried low timing, but forgot to. But what really amazes me is the Align 400LF, for a low $$ motor, it really works, but you must really practice collective managment.

Dennis

SAB 320mm blades

Well, I recently received my SAB T-rex blades and they are very nice to fly. Very efficient and quiet even at high headspeeds with good lift. They also track perfectly and needed very little balancing.

Some people were concerned that the 320mm blades (from bolt hole to tip) would touch the TR, but I had no problems flying them. I only did loops, rolls and flips with them though.

After taking the third pic seen above I held the blade in one hand and the TR in the other and pulled one towards the other. With force I can actually touch the blade tip to the TR, so someone doing tic-tocs and such might touch the two... Not sure... Maybe I should put on the stretch kit... The whole heli is so smooth now and trouble free that for me this will be fine for now. Oh yes, these blades are (these SABs also come with 305mm lenght from bolt hole to tip. I think Align measures from end to end) a lot better suited for the T-rex than the 280mm MS Composits I had on before as the SABs have more lift being longer.

dnam,

I'd recommend that you put the stretch kit on. That looks like an accident waiting to happen. Your heli is too sweet to see it in more than one piece.

...

yeah...

plus those blades are not too cheap i don't think... so you don't wanna risk 'em.... i imagine they might stand up to a strike of the soft plastic tail rudder blades, but the impending crash you might not be so lucky.... stretch it i say.

although-- i know your feeling of not wanting to touch a thing on the bird when she's flying nice... aint broke? don't fix it comes to mind.

Up In The Air

Shot of dnam's friends TRex at the Maryland Helicopter Association Open House today. He is very good flyer and had some of the nitro boys taking notice. Sadly the only shot of him inverted is too blurry Shutter speed too slow...
Several TRexs in various states of construction there today.
Gary

RCHFLYER or DNAM

What's your radio set up?

I know both of you are Futaba radio users. What direction and values did you use for the CCPM set up?

Mine will be ready to fly shortly.

Rob Clark

Nice Picture!

Gary,

Nice picture of a great flying helicopter, thanks for posting!

Should be a lot of people flying those things at the MHA Fun Fly, just a few weeks away.

Rob

RotorheadBob,
This should get you started:

CCPM Setup
Connect the servo on the center line of the Heli to the elevator channel, on the Futaba channel 2. Connect the other two servos to channels 1 and 6, doesn't matter which. Make sure your TX is set to 120 degree swash. Clear your Pitch curve, center all sticks, zero out sub-trims. Set servo output arms at right angles to the pushrods. Disconnect the motor or unplug the ESC and use a Rx battery to power the system. Switch on the radio. Move the collective stick and reverse servos as necessary so all servos move UP with raised collective stick. Try aileron and elevator movements. DO NOT REVERSE servos to get the correct movement. Use the swash mix ratios! Example if +60 change it to -60 to reverse movement. Avoid using large amounts of sub-trim to either level the swashplate or align the servo output arms. Adjust servo end points to ensure swash stays level at all collective positions with centered aileron and elevator stick.
Hope this helps.
Gary

Hey, Dennis (RCHFLYER)

Dennis,

I trimmed a new frameset like yours. Thanks for the tip to use the T-Square, that did the trick for me.

Will post questions if I have trouble, or pix when complete!

Rob Clark

What's your radio set up?

I know both of you are Futaba radio users. What direction and values did you use for the CCPM set up?

I hope this helps. (I have 14MZ so the channel assigments are different from other radios, also using SL560 gyro plus Schulze ESC)
1 throttle - rev
2 rudder - norm
3 - gyro - rev
4 - aileron - rev
5 - Elevator - norm
6 - pitch - norm

All ATVs set to 100%. Sub-trim as needed.
Swash AFR:
Aileron -50%
Elevator -50%
Pitch +47% (I have +/-10º pitch, but you can put more if you like)

My pitch curve:
normal: -39% 0% 100% (-4º 0º +10º)
idle up 1 and 2: -100% 0% +100% (-10º 0º +10º)

My throttle curves are just straight horizontal lines as I use the gov mode in the ESC. Here are some things to look out for from this thread: http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t152795p1/

One thing about the ESC is that the juice it pumps out doesn't always correspond to the radio throttle percentage. For example on my JR radio a setting of 90% throttle on the radio meant 100% on the ESC. However on my new Futaba radio 100% full blast from the ESC when I am at only 45% throttle on my radio! Easy way to see what corresponds to 100% ESC power is to disconnect the motor from the ESC so it won't start spinning. Just set a default throttle curve going from 0-50-100. Arm the ESC and start pushing the throttle stick up. The red light on the Jazz will come on and stay lit when it is pumping out 100%. Just note the position the stick is at now. Let say it is at 90% when the ESC is at 100%. To set 80% for the ESC you would have to set 90% x 0.8 = 72% on the throttle curve.

Nam

Just remembered something. Duc if you are new to e-helis I would suggest taking the blades off before you first spool up the heli, to see if the throttle stick reverse setting is right. When you want to initialize the Jazz you have to pull the throttle to full down position, the motor should give a little sound and the red LED lights up on the Jazz. If this doesn't happen your throttle channel might need to be reversed!

Further evolution of my T-rex

Well after much pondering I decided to buy the Heliup CF CCPM frame. Today I had 6 flights with the newly rebuilt Rexi. I have all the Align metal head parts also + the new Mah blades. All I can say is WOW! The heli has never been this smoooooth with SO much control feel! The quality of the frame is just awesome! Everything fits perfectly without any mods. The whole things is very stiff and I am sure it will hold up very well in a crash. Hopefully that won't happen anytime soon...

Here are some pics for those who are interested. This is my best iteration of the T-rex so far.

The new XL canopy. I like the see through version as it is so easy to paint from the inside, you just can't mess it up.

Tried to do a funky color scheme

As you can see I have the blue CF version. (It also comes in black or silver CF.) What a beautiful frame! It matches all the Align CNC parts very nicely.

Love the Align blue bits! Very well made, fit perfectly and at a good price! Just can't be beat!

For this build I decided to add a Medusa Research 2A, 6V external BEC (blue thing under the battery tray) to see how it works and if it adds any improvements to servo performance. So many things were changed in this build I am not sure how much this contributes to the overall much better control feel of the heli. Anyway at least it is working fine without any problems.

The only servos you can use with this frame are the HS-56s. You need to use the second holes on the longest arms. The excess is cut off.

So well designed...

The XL canopy is slightly bigger than the normal T-rex canopy and as such can be seen a little better in the air.

These Mah blades are just so beautiful and well made! Their surface is ultra smooth too. These are my favorite blades so far.

That's it for now. There isn't any big assembly tip I can give as the whole thing goes together perfectly. Can't wait to go fly again tomorrow! If you have been thinking of buying a CF frame IMO you just can't go wrong with this one! The price is a little stiff at $184, so if you don't want to spend this much money on a frame I can recommend Hubdave's CF frame ($100). It even comes pre-assembled and Dave will send you replacement parts free of charge.

Cheers!
Nam

DNAM, that helicopter looks awesome. I can't believe that the frame cost $184!!!!!! You can buy a carbon fiber plate for $20, I can't see how they get the other $164 for the machining and tooling. I just wish the price were more realistic. Awesome helicopter though. You plan on getting the new eCCPM when Align releases that?

Team JR
Team ThunderPower RC
Boca Bearings

You plan on getting the new eCCPM when Align releases that?

Not now, as I am VERY happy with my Rexi at the moment! All the components on it work together to make it one hell of a smooth and precise machine. I was even confident enough to land it nose in or maybe this was just because I practiced it a lot on the sim...

My friend, Rchflyer, is however getting one of the new XL kits probably at the beginning of next week. Once that is built and all I'll post some pics of it here.

Hi Dnam!

Trex looks gorgeous man!!!

What tail servo are you using??

Regards Benz

Thanks! The see through new XL canopy is great to paint. Just spay whatever you want inside, mixing a couple colors is no problem, and no need to worry about finish either as the outside will always stay smooth and shiny.

The tail servo is a digital Futaba S9650 (you can see closer pictures of it if you look at the yellow dragon T-rex further back on the 3rd page). A little heavier than the small micro servos, but the tail holds very steady in any direction! It doesn't mess up CG either. They way all the stuff is arranged CG is spot on.

Cheers!
Nam

dnam, what is your weight?
i think to buy 9650 any problem with mounting?

Sorry, but I am not sure. I lost my digital scale.

But weight is only 16g more than if I used a small micro servo.

26g vs. 10g

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...?&I=LXDTB4&P=ML

I am using it at 6V so transit time is 0.11sec + I can use the digital mode of the gyro. It actually worked great without the 6V, so the new BEC is just there for fun.

Mounting is easy. You can just use the original mounts. Go back to the 3rd page. You'll see a pic of it mounted. Just 2 screws.

thanks, i am ordering it now