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Robbe › Assembled head doesn't look right?? Help!
12-08-2004 08:01 AM  13 years agoPost 1
albireo

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Sacramento, Ca

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After reading and re-reading the instructions AND getting my wife's help I finally assembled the head. The problem is that it just doesn't look right. Here are my concerns:
1. Are the critical bearings facing the right way?
2. I noticed that one of the spacers in the middle has holes for hex bolts, yet there are no instructions for putting them in.
3. One of the washers on each side has a large ID diameter and seems just to hang there. Is this ok?
4. The whole assembly is not tight with all the bearings, spacers, etc to make one continuous fit down the shaft. Seems to be too much room - everything isn't snug against the bolts at the ends.
5. I have 3 mysterious washers in the end. The instructions don't even mention them, and I don't see where they go. They were in the bag, but I don't get it.
6. I'm using 2 rubber "O" rings to start with on each side. Is this right? Why not have one thicker one, instead of two smaller ones?
Below are some pictures I took, I hope they help.
PLEASE look at these and let me know how I'm doing...
Thanks!
Joe



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12-08-2004 08:33 AM  13 years agoPost 2
Futurac

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Belgium , Europe

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Eolo


Check the drawing again, "shims" you have are a part of Trust bearing
S3364
bear in mind there is one part With larger diamete 4.2mm and 4mm ,they should be correctly located as per drawing.
Start from scratch, you will be ok.

Alex (Formerly Known as RCMarket )

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12-08-2004 08:37 AM  13 years agoPost 3
dnts

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Israel

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Nice...
Take it all apart and follow the instructions... you first fit the thrust bearings into the blade grip. Pay attention to the instructions as the two rings that make up each bearing have different I.D. Then place one spacer S0053 and one radial bearing in and then the "spacer" with the threaded holes aligned with the holes in the blade grip. Socket head screws will be used to secure that collar in place. Make the second grip this way. Now put the feathering shaft into the head block. Two rubber rings come on each side, followed by S5146 spacer and another radial bearing. Now slide both grips on and bolt them using M3x10 socket head screw and S0001 spacer. Screw them in until the assembly seems solid. Now take out each socket head screw and apply blue loctite (carefully) and put them back in. This applies to all 6 screws.
That should be it.
Nir

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12-08-2004 11:47 AM  13 years agoPost 4
Sparkhead

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Melbourne Australia

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Hey Joe,

The mysterious washers are the other parts that make up a thrust bearing. You should have 4 of them all up not just 3. Slide them on the shaft to see which 2 have the slightly bigger hole and these are the 4.2mm ones on the plan. Then there should be another 2 that are a snug fit on the shaft, these are the 4.0mm ones. Have another good look for the 4th one because from memory they are packaged seperately from the other parts. If you cant find it you will have to see the place of purchase and get a new one. Where you see the 4.2 and 4.0 measurements on the plan this is where these parts are meant to go. The side with the groove has the ball bearings from the gold washer running in it. There will be 1 washer each side of the gold bearing race and this should take up all of the spare room on the shaft.


Mick.

Robbe & Futaba.

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12-08-2004 01:53 PM  13 years agoPost 5
darrens

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United Kingdom

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Hi Joe,
as Sparkhead said, you should have 4 of those washers. These are parts 2 & 3 of your bearing assembly (remember the 3 arrows in the diagram!). You have to put one washer each side of the bearing cage so that the grooves face inwards towards the bearing. This give the bearing balls something to run in (remember to grease them!!!). Also, as Sparhead said, you must make sure that the washer with the smallest Inner diameter is on the outside. If you cant find the fourth washer, you will have to get spares. However, most of us find it easier to assemble this lot into each blade holder and not on to the shaft. They are quite a tight fit and it is easier to push them into the blade holder than it is to push the blade holder onto the fully assembled shaft. If you do this, then the S0039 screw and S4524 washer are left out as they go in the blade end of the blade grip.
hope this helps

He who dies with the most toys is the winner!

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12-08-2004 04:15 PM  13 years agoPost 6
albireo

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Sacramento, Ca

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Ah... NOW I get it! I did a test fit to put things in the blade grip and now it makes sense. I went to work early to escape very bad weather and traffic, I tried it before work. I think I'm going to wait until I get home from work to actually finish that part, as the wife was scratching her head with me till midnight trying to do this too. She'll get a kick out of how it all goes together.
As far as where I got off track, the instructions just said to "fit the parts EXACTLY like in the drawing" and that's about it. All it said about the axial berings was that the S3364 needed to face the blade holder. Nothing was mentioned that the "bearing" was actually three pieces. If the drawing had shown each of the pieces on the side instead of skipping a half dozen of them it would have helped! Before I started I matched each piece with the drawing and just tried to figure out what the leftover pieces were!
A couple of questions left over if you don't mind...
Can I lube it with the super-lube R/C car oil I have? It's a thin clearish liquid used on gearboxes of the nicer competition R/C cars.
I like the idea of assembling in the blade grips, There's a little washer that goes first, S4524. Do I stick hex bolt S0039 and the washer together in first and then assemble the rest?
Thanks SOOOO very much!
And I thought that the Corona was a pain to put together!
Joe

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12-08-2004 09:40 PM  13 years agoPost 7
darrens

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United Kingdom

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Hi Joe,
Leave the washer/bolt until last. Get each of the blade grips completed first and then slide them onto the spindle and then lock the bolts up tight, remembering to use threadlock. As for the oil, I would not suggest using it. The head is rotating at sufficient speed for centrifugal force to drive the oil out, so high viscosity grease is your best chance at keeping these parts lubricated.
When you do fit the blade grips, they should move freely on the shaft even though the bolts are tight. I have used a metal head (Quick UK) and found the small washer caused them to bind a little, so I left these out, but in the plastic head they should be OK. If you do get some binding, this may be a starting point?
I do agree that the manual is less than perfect, we have all had similar dificulties in interpretation!

He who dies with the most toys is the winner!

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