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HelicopterHIROBOOther › X-Spec building tips?
12-07-2004 10:22 PM  13 years agoPost 1
JitsuGuy

rrKey Veteran

Tulsa, Oklahoma

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Anything I should check or look out for? It seems the ball ends thread on and off rather easily on the arms but they do hold . What else? I don't want to have some serious malfunction on her first flight in my hands.

Thanks!
J

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12-07-2004 10:30 PM  13 years agoPost 2
tris_heli

rrKey Veteran

Lidlington, Bedfordshire, UK

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Hmm which ones excatly ?...

From memory, mine went together really well. Oh, make sure you realy loctite the 4 M4 bolts that hold the yoke on through the dampers (or even better drill them through and use a longer bolt with a nyloc nut as per the carbon extreme kit)..

There's lots of little mods you can do and some very good posts from augusto about it.

Cheers
Tris

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12-07-2004 11:58 PM  13 years agoPost 3
JitsuGuy

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Tulsa, Oklahoma

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Cool, I'll look into that!

Thanks!
J

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12-08-2004 02:06 AM  13 years agoPost 4
f3roadracer

rrNovice

Snohomish, WA

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Here are a couple of tips:

1. dial indicate (and correct) the starter shaft on the clutch, this will save you a lot of grief later. There is lots of info here on RR on how to do that.

2. Use CA glue to secure the 4 self tapping screws that hold the radio tray to the main upper frame. The CA acts like locktite for plastic to keep the screws from backing out.

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12-08-2004 08:25 AM  13 years agoPost 5
I3DM

rrProfessor

Israel

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1. i use M3 allen bolts in that tray, they hold much better.
2. the long bolts with nuts on the yoke is probably the #1 mod.
3. dont forget Augusto's grease mod to the one way bearing housing - its important !

4. use the boom supports on the bottom hole in the frames.

other then that, its a pretty straight forward build - enjoy it.

www.liorzahavi.com

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12-08-2004 08:31 AM  13 years agoPost 6
mrNoodles

rrProfessor

Borlänge, Sweden

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Pre-thread the holes in the plactic part of the swash, too easy do damage the threads while trying to get a in the balls. I found out that using small adjustable wrench works very nice. Securing them with CA might be a good idea also.

Dial indicating the clutchshaft and flywheel is good.

Here´s a thread which I think remembers some useful XSpec tips.

Good Luck with your build - it´s a nice kit!

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12-08-2004 05:08 PM  13 years agoPost 7
JitsuGuy

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Tulsa, Oklahoma

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Is the yoke the part of the head the dampening goes through? If so, I've go the carbon extreme dampening kit version2 and I'm going to install that which I noticed did come with a drill bit and longer bolts.

Thanks!
J

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12-08-2004 05:10 PM  13 years agoPost 8
mrNoodles

rrProfessor

Borlänge, Sweden

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Yepp thats the yoke, shiny blue bling bling.

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12-09-2004 02:56 AM  13 years agoPost 9
Metalizer

rrApprentice

Canton, Ohio

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.......

What is this with drilling and new dampeners? Im also building a x-spec for the first time and not shure why this has to be done. I read where the 4 dampening bolts should be removed and reset with red loctite. Is this not good enough? I will be swinging 700mm blades. I always use ca on screws that thread into plastic. Any other tips or links to building tips would be great. Thank You

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12-09-2004 03:06 AM  13 years agoPost 10
z11355

rrMaster

New England

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some people drill out the big center hub and use
a long M4 screw w/ locknut instead of using
the stock M4's w/ red Loctite.

You can get the CarbonExtreme optional damping
kit which is really slick (and also has the right
drill bit and screws in addition to adjustable
damping).

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12-09-2004 03:27 AM  13 years agoPost 11
Metalizer

rrApprentice

Canton, Ohio

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........

Is this for better performance or to keep it from flying apart. I may upgrade later but i was hoping it was ready to go out of the box. Thanks for your help. Jeff

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12-09-2004 03:29 AM  13 years agoPost 12
z11355

rrMaster

New England

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mostly better performance but you do want to
use RED Loctite on those 4 bolts on the head
and clean the screws first.

When you want to remove the screws, heat them
up w/ the tip of a good size soldering iron lest you
strip them

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12-09-2004 03:34 AM  13 years agoPost 13
Detroit Steve

rrApprentice

Michigan

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Boom Supports

Make sure you JB Weld or Epoxy the plastic Ends into the Boom Supports. Also make sure thrustbearings are installed in the proper orientation.

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12-09-2004 04:00 AM  13 years agoPost 14
TMoore

rrMaster

Cookeville, TN

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Just to add to this discussion. If you run the Carbon Extreme dampner kit, the B setup flies most like stock. The stock teeter rubbers really fly smooth, have great stability in FFF but get rather loose over the course of time. I did not use the provided drill bit because it would have drilled the clearance hole a little bigger than I wanted so I used a number drill that is just over the 4mm OD of the SHCS. In addition, use a bottle of white out to mark the screws and remove them prior to taking a Dremel Cutoff wheel to trim them. The cutting process heats up the screw and there is really no need to heat up the Carbon Extreme plastic parts.

Another tip is when you build the tail pulley assy. Check to make sure that the endplay on the shaft is minimal. After a gallon of fuel I had to shim my tail rotor output shaft with one 5mm ID shim that I made from .005" shim stock. If after a little flight time you notice the tail vibrating up and down, this is usually traced to a slightly loose belt.

Dial the fan to .0015" or less. After you get the fan hub dialed in, if the clutch shaft runs out even if you flip it 180 degrees just take an X-Acto knife and remove material where the Clutch boss fits into the counterbore of the fan hub. This will give you some clearance so that the clutch can be moved around to get it dialed in as close as possible. Be sure to check the runout at the base of the start shaft and the very end. The WC Fan hub is a nice tight fit on the crankshaft of the 91 C-Spec. Use a crank locking tool and get the nut tight. Don't forget the key in the crankshaft and the washer.

Once you have the mainshaft installed, mark the mainshaft with a magic marker, install the collar and tighten the set screws to mark the shaft. Once the shaft is marked take a Dremel and grind a flat at each set screw location. If you don't, the mainshaft will slip, guaranteed.

Trial fit the blade grips and only use the shims that you need. There are 4 in the kit and you may not need any or you may need all 4. It will depend on the length of the hub and the traverse shaft. If you want, you may use a set of SHCS to replace the button heads that come in the kit. You can get these new screws a lot tighter and I typically don't use loctite as I haven't found it necessary. This is a personal decision and if you aren't comfortable in your building skills use loctite. I don't want to get into a pissing contest about this little detail. I've been building hells since before the traverse shaft machines first appeared on the market in the mid 80's with the Heim and Schluter machines and I haven't had a single failure.

Do a search for Augusto's auto hub mod. I can't speak for its effectiveness but it can't hurt to do if it adds life to the auto bearing. I skimmed .002" out of my hub to give the one way some clearance and this seems to do the trick.

I run the middle mobiity setting on the flybar. If you run the high mobility settings be prepared for some fast cyclic rates. I also run only one weight in the flybar paddles. Actually if you didn't run any weight it probably would still fly smoothly.

If your muffler runs really close to the SHCS on the side of the frames you can swap out for a flat head screw and a trim ring to get some extra clearance. I had to do that on a standard Freya because of the Funtech Muffler I use.

The shroud can be a PIA to do if you have never done a shroud before. On my X-Spec I cut the shrould for 1mm clearance on the top of the Viper head and I left the sides of the shroud intact for some extra material. Be sure to cut off the mounting posts per the instructions, otherwise the shroud won't bolt up. The standard Freya shroud has much more clearance than the X-Spec and I haven't had any cooling issues so far with the standard Freya. A drum sander on a Dremel is a good way to smooth up the cuts on the shroud.

Depending on the gear ratio that you go with you may want to change the pinion on the clutch bell. It isn't hard to get the pinion off if you know how. It is loctited from the factory. Mount the pinion in a vise VERY LIGHTLY so it won't turn, preferably a vise with a set of smooth jaws. You don't want to actually clamp the pinion just keep it from turning. Take a rubber bungy and wrap it around the clutch bell and turn off the bell by hand. The threads are Right Hand so keep that in mind. The bungy will give you some leverage. A drop of blue loctite will secure the pinion back on the bell. Don't forget the o-ring and washer when you put the bell back on the clutch.

TM

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12-09-2004 04:03 AM  13 years agoPost 15
elviswl

rrApprentice

Fort Lauderdale, South Florida

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careful also with the size of the blades... mains and tail.

Review here for more info.


-elvis

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12-09-2004 04:12 AM  13 years agoPost 16
TMoore

rrMaster

Cookeville, TN

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If you run 700NHP's and the stock blue blades, there is 5mm clearance when you pull the blades down to the tail boom.

Take the lower bolt out of the hub and pull the blades down until they touch the tail boom. See for yourself.

TM

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12-09-2004 05:04 AM  13 years agoPost 17
Metalizer

rrApprentice

Canton, Ohio

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....

Thanks guys for the help. Been flying raptors and xcells and can't wait to get her going. Then i can coment on the raptor/fury or x-spec posts.

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12-09-2004 05:29 AM  13 years agoPost 18
Metalizer

rrApprentice

Canton, Ohio

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Dang

Just read the link to the 700mm blades being to long. Nice not having to have long blades, but Heliproz sent there 700mm g4s with the x-spec. Any one want to trade there MS680v2

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12-09-2004 01:13 PM  13 years agoPost 19
TMoore

rrMaster

Cookeville, TN

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When you get the head built, take the lower bolt out of the hub, bolt on a blade and see for yourself if the 700 will clear. Just pull the blade down to the tail boom.

This is another reason to use the Carbon Extreme kit.

TM

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HelicopterHIROBOOther › X-Spec building tips?
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