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HelicopterThunder TigerOther › Solution for stripped out landing screw
10-24-2004 08:19 AM  13 years agoPost 1
lozza6

rrVeteran

Sydney, Australia

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Hi,

One of the 4 screws for my landing gear gor stripped out.....

taken in and out too many times i think...

whats the best solution?

I have put super clue in the hole, and screwd it in...

but now i am required to change my clunk line.... so have to take the fuel out, hence have to undo the landing gear again

is there i way i can change this to a metal nut and bolt?

Have any of you guys had this problem? Whats your solution?

Thanks heaps..

Loz

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10-24-2004 08:26 AM  13 years agoPost 2
alonafuta

rrNovice

Los Angeles, CA

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get new landing gear

I did, i just bought new landing gear, and I wouldn’t risk it
Carbon fiber is highly recommended

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10-24-2004 08:27 AM  13 years agoPost 3
genovia

rrElite Veteran

N UR NECK OF DA​WOODS

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is there i way i can change this to a metal nut and bolt?
Now your starting to think, Jedi

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10-24-2004 09:03 AM  13 years agoPost 4
Lozzyho

rrApprentice

Tropical Ayrshire,​Scotland

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Hi Loz,

I assume you mean one of the screws that goes into the side-frames securing the undercarriage struts to the fuselage?

I stripped one on mine. I just replaced it with an M3 bolt and it held ok without a nut, but you'll find there is a recess on the 50 v2 that holds a nut.

Bit of a bugger to install though!

You could try epoxy instead of super glue, bit more forgiving.

Cheers bud,

Loz (different one)

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10-24-2004 09:09 AM  13 years agoPost 5
DOKEY

rrProfessor

Northamptonshire UK

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How about drilling the undercarriage out a little and then using a larger self tap screw ??

Ryan.

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10-24-2004 09:25 AM  13 years agoPost 6
Lozzyho

rrApprentice

Tropical Ayrshire,​Scotland

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Just remembered another method. Might be worth a try.

Take a match and cut it lengthways with a craft knife (1/2 or maybe 1/3). Now shorten it to the length of the screw hole.

Put the match piece in where the screw goes, then screw in the undercarriage.

You should find that the match holds both the screw and the hole. If it doesn't, use a bigger bit of match. The advantage of this method is that it's reversible - no permanent damage to the side-frame if it doesn't work well.

Finally found a use for my dad!

Cheers,

Loz.

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10-24-2004 09:34 AM  13 years agoPost 7
l337hxr

rrApprentice

Irvine, CA

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I have the best way. I did this on my Raptor50v2 but sold it to "freezin eskimo". The mod I did is virtually un-strippable.

Basically I put nyloc nuts at all four points. You'll see that at the back frames, there's a window, you insert the nyloc nut in there. Yes if you try to turn the socket screw, the nut turns with it, and does not screw in. So the solution? = JB Weld. I position the nut properly, then I JBweld'd all four nyloc nuts to the frame. After a few hours, it all fits. Never stripped the landing gear bolts any more!

SceaduEvo50, FF9

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10-24-2004 09:59 AM  13 years agoPost 8
Skillmaster

rrVeteran

LA cali

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im just asking all the guys gave u great replys but why do u need to take off the landing gear to remove the fuel tank?

1992 3000gt vr4

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10-24-2004 10:16 AM  13 years agoPost 9
Drunk Monk

rrProfessor

Preston, UK

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You need to remove the 2 screws that hold the rear strut on to be able to open the frames enough to get the tank out with a little squeeze.

Personally I just use a M3 bolt and nyloc nut in the recess on the bottom of the frames. I didn't bother to glue the nut in since a 5.5mm open ended spanner fits fine

I swapped all 4 to nut and bolt as my screws kept backing out all the time.


Stephen

I only open my mouth to change feet.....

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10-24-2004 12:34 PM  13 years agoPost 10
lozza6

rrVeteran

Sydney, Australia

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hmm i see.. i didnt realise i could get a nyloc but in that hole.....

that does seem like a solution..

so M3 is the Hex type?

how long??

i want a whole bunch of spares M3 M2 stuff.. for my raptor....

whats the easiest way? Esp since i dont know EXACTLY what i need...

thanks for the responses guys...

Loz

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10-24-2004 12:50 PM  13 years agoPost 11
onebigjunker

rrKey Veteran

Wellsville, Ks

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the easyest way to fix the problem i have been shown is to drill the holes out and zip tie the landing gear to the bottom, so in a crash it will come off with out breaking!

work hard, play even harder!!!!
Team Empire Hobby/GAUI USA

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10-24-2004 12:57 PM  13 years agoPost 12
lozza6

rrVeteran

Sydney, Australia

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Could i use this?

http://www.microfasteners.com/catal...ts/ASThelia.cfm

to have spares and also replace the landing nuts and bolts?


so to change to nuts.. what length M3 do i need? also, do i have to drill the hole right through?

BEFORE I can use an M3 and a nyloc nut...

Drunk Monk.. you said.. you dont neven need to JB weld it?

you can get aspanner (or pliers) to hold the nut while screwing through?

sounds like a good mod i need....... everything else seems fine..

first with engine problems.. now clunk problems... I'd much prefer the 4 landing gear screws to be nts and bolts

Loz

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10-24-2004 03:21 PM  13 years agoPost 13
ornatep

rrApprentice

San LUis Obispo, CA​USA

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Loz, if you are carefull, very carefull you can squeeze the take together in the middle and pull it out but don't knick one of those nipples or it will leak, good luck

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10-24-2004 03:25 PM  13 years agoPost 14
Drunk Monk

rrProfessor

Preston, UK

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If you pull the back to skid screws out then it comes out much easie without deforming the tank and risking damaging it


Stephen

I only open my mouth to change feet.....

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10-24-2004 04:13 PM  13 years agoPost 15
tailrotordave

rrVeteran

Burbank, Ca

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I agree with Lozzyho at the top of the thread. A normal M3 socket head bolt works well all by itself. It the hole is badly damaged, then put a nut on it. You can hold the nut in the window from turning with a small flat blade screwdriver between a flat on the nut and the frame.
The nice thing about the screw by itself is a bit of a fuse....same as the zip ties......if you crash hard, it will pull out and hopefully save your frames.
A bolt and nut will not have any give

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10-24-2004 07:37 PM  13 years agoPost 16
PietervA

rrVeteran

New Zealand

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The landing gear protects the rest of the heli, so I don't want it to ever come off!

I've used M3 cap head bolts, with M3 nylocs (held with a 5.5mm open spanner), and anchor the nuts with JB once installed. Just make sure the frame's nice 'n clean. You can drill out the holes to 3mm if you want, but the bolt will do it for you.

I agree with Steve: undo one rear bolt before you slip the tank out. Not worth the risk of damaging the tank/nipples.

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10-24-2004 08:14 PM  13 years agoPost 17
Skillmaster

rrVeteran

LA cali

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u have to remove the rear screws? i have never done that i thought it slides out, thats what ive done every time, well i guess we learn somethin every day

1992 3000gt vr4

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10-24-2004 10:11 PM  13 years agoPost 18
AirWolfRC

rrProfessor

42½ N, 83½ W

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Well, some people slide in and out and some keep screwing.

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10-25-2004 08:24 PM  13 years agoPost 19
playfair

rrKey Veteran

Rochester, NY

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FWIW, I change my clunk line every month or two, and have never pulled the tank to do it (except once when the clunk line broke from waiting too long).

You just carefully pry the hose barb with needlenose pliers and/or wirecutters, then carefully use the needlenose to pull out the grommet, all from the muffler side of the frames.

EDIT:
To put back in, insert the assembly (with grommet loose over the tubing) into the tank, then push the grommet in, and finally the barb fitting. Needle nose work fine, but hemostats may make it a little easier, especially re-connecting the tubing to the muffler.


The sky is our canvas

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10-25-2004 10:51 PM  13 years agoPost 20
lozza6

rrVeteran

Sydney, Australia

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hmm playfair.. thats an interesting option!

i might give that a go!

harder to put back in?

Loz

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HelicopterThunder TigerOther › Solution for stripped out landing screw
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