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10-22-2004 10:42 PM  13 years agoPost 1
darenh

rrApprentice

Hull, UK

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Can anyone give me any tips on how to improve the tail response on my zoom?

Im using a Supertec servo in the stock position with an uncased Robbe 3D gyro and stock push rod/wire thing.

While Im not looking for out and out 3D performance it would be nice to hover without the tail wanting to do what it likes!!

Thanks Daren

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10-22-2004 10:52 PM  13 years agoPost 2
8AxleEd

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San Jose, CA

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Tail response, or stability? Is it oscilating, or hunting right now?

Where is the gyro placed? If it is between the ESC and the battery, most have found that spot to be troublesome. Others have put it on the plate next to the cyclic servos. Others have put it on the tailboom, although they have balancing issues later on. Either place seems to work better than between the battery and pitch servo.

It would be helpful to get more information about your setup.

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10-23-2004 07:34 PM  13 years agoPost 3
darenh

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Hull, UK

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No its not hunting, its more waffie.

The gyro is mounted on a plate other side to the collective servo. Thinking about it its as though the gyro is not working all that well, the tail holds then piros to nose in almost, and Ive maybe not got enough gain on.

Any ideas on how to improve the push rod with out spending £25+ on and upgrade!!

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10-24-2004 05:24 AM  13 years agoPost 4
czechyour6

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Orem, Utah

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Use a small carbon fiber rod and use some small wire pieces on each end like the GWS planes use, wrap thread around wire and rod, and CA it. Then use the mini dubro connectors on the servo and tail lever. you can double stick tape your tail servo to a small plastic ziptie base they sell at hardward stores, then servotape and ziptie the base to the bottom of the boom. I have some pics of mine if you want me to send em, PM me

Blade 130x - DX7s

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10-24-2004 05:31 AM  13 years agoPost 5
Rob_T

rrElite Veteran

..

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Go buy a pair of fin mounts (you only need one, so sell the other to a friend!), then silicone glue your tail servo to the fin mount. Now you can boom mount the servo. Use some CF tube (about 3mm OD) and glue wire into each end to make a light but stiff pushrod. Use Dubro E-Z connectors at each end (I used micro size). At least as good as any of the high priced upgrades, but should cost you much less than 25 quid. (The photos in my gallery show this done with CF rod, but that didn't work as well as tube as it flexes a little- I've changed it since the photos were taken).

I've seen a similar version of this mod that left the servo in the stock position

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10-24-2004 05:57 AM  13 years agoPost 6
8AxleEd

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San Jose, CA

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I run a completely stock tail without any modifications or problems. I don't know that you should need to do any upgrades.

How fast is that tail servo?

If you hold the model and spool it up while it is above your head and rotate it about the main mast axis, do you feel the model resist your rotation?

Do you have a screw-head holding the tail pushrod to the frame of the model?

Is there a tie-wrap near the end of the tail boom holding the pushrod against the tail boom?

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10-24-2004 10:23 PM  13 years agoPost 7
chrisv

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Maybe your tail servo is too close to the main gear and is getting hit on each rotation ?

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10-24-2004 11:07 PM  13 years agoPost 8
pigs dont fly

rrKey Veteran

City, State -​Country

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Hi darenh

Heres how I did my tail: cost £5.50 appx.

Carbon boom supports and carbon tail pushrod buy 1 length of 3mm carbon tube, cut new boom supports, then chop the ends off the original ali boom supports, slide and CA these ends over the new carbon supports and remount them on the heli. Pushrod, cut to size, CA a threaded pushrod end into the rod, use a bit of heatshrink over the joints to stop them fraying (keep the old boom supports to make new endcaps with) . Job done cost less than £5.

Ball joint instead of pin on the pitch slider, get a servo pushrod balljoint from LHS 50p, plastic and brass, dremmel down the ball mounting pin untill its the same length as the original pin, replace the original pin with the new ball and expoxy it in. Chop the step in the slider arm off leaving the flat vertical, cut the ball joint cup down to the same length as the bit just removed , find a screw that fits the plastic cup and cut that down so it will screw the cup up tight against the crank arm flat, cut a hole and a divot in the arm to accomodate the screw head, Screw the cup to the arm.Use a bit of Epoxy to strengthen it.

Boom servo mounts: mains wire clips the ones with nails in to nail mains wire to the skirting board. remove the nail, cip to boom, screw servo to clip, CA the clip to the boom to stop it sliding

Hope this helps
Rgds
E

Warning...This hobby is very addictive and may damage your wealth

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10-26-2004 07:53 PM  13 years agoPost 9
darenh

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Hull, UK

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Thanks guys I'll see what I can do!

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11-08-2004 09:42 AM  13 years agoPost 10
darenh

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Hull, UK

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Well, made a carbon pushrod and boom supports out of the left overs, adjusted gains and ATV's etc.

Charged my batteries and of I went, I thought I'd cracked it when the little heli started piroing to the left?

Cant understand why it should be doing this as its ok when it lifts off the ground.

The only thing I can think of is the battery cant supply the current that the gyro needs baring in mind its a standard small servo. Or/and the head speed is affecting the rudder but it dosnt appear to speed up/down when in the air, havent tried taco.


Just looking for ideas now guys, my next choice is to try a different stanadard gyro.


"Im out woodworking right now"

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11-08-2004 11:36 AM  13 years agoPost 11
rich4

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UK

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Hi Daren,
Good to see you on board. Where abouts do you fly? I am out near Beverley. Just Kits on Hessle Road stock a limited amount of zoom spares if you didn't know.

Rich

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11-08-2004 11:57 AM  13 years agoPost 12
darenh

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Hull, UK

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Hi I am in Kinswood, Used to fly on the Westwood but joined the Beverley club earlyer on this year - so down at the club field on Sunday mornings. Other than that its at a farm field around the corner from where I live, dry mud permitting.

Where do you?

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11-08-2004 12:12 PM  13 years agoPost 13
rich4

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UK

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Fly mainy round where I live (North Frodingham) my house backs on to open fields
Thinking about joining the Routh club.

Back to the topic - definitely make yourself a C/F push rod. Also a nice little tip is to put a tiny screw inbetween the 4 screws holding the tail gear onto the boom. Just let it 'bite' the boom. This will prevent your tail housing rotating.

Cheers

Rich

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11-08-2004 12:16 PM  13 years agoPost 14
darenh

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Hull, UK

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Yep thanks got the C/F push rod, I,ll look at the screw, I ve also check my battery figures which have a discharge constant rate of 13.2A which is 12C and can peak at 20A.

I wonder if this is enough for 4 standard servos and the stock motor?

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11-09-2004 12:09 AM  13 years agoPost 15
TheRickster

rrApprentice

Beaumont Texas

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Gear case rotating

Trick I use is a strip of 320grit sand paper CA'ed to the inside of the gear case..When you tighten it up the 320 bites in and you CANNOT rotate it when tight..I use this method on my CF boom because the finish on the boom is so slick the case would rotate easily...

Rick

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11-09-2004 09:51 PM  13 years agoPost 16
darenh

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Hull, UK

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Well guys I finally worked it out!!

I was playing in the kitchen holding the zoom nothing untoward hear, I even moved the gyro and tie wrap it to the boom just to elliminate intaraction with the esc.

I finally flew it to hear a strange noise which was the gears spinning on the tail shaft at load.

A quick strip and thick CA had it working ok, only one thing my dog barged the door in, nad do you know when you look away for a second and the heli is somewhere else!!

needless to say I need a new set of blades, I'm preaty sure the shafts are ok

Thanks for all your replys


Daren


"Im out woodworking right now"

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