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HelicopterMain Discussion › CUTING DOWN NHP FIBRE BLADES
10-18-2004 05:57 PM  13 years agoPost 1
parksi

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England

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Hi Chaps,
Can u give me some advice.I want to cut down a set of NHP carbon fibre blades.They are 68cm and i want to cut them down to 66cm can anyone tell me what the best way to do this..i am usung them a concept 60 sr11 with a 61 os eng when i give it fell pitch which is only +7 the head slows down and sounds like it wants to stall..any advice here the instructions say it should be flown with 66cm blades..
cheers
parksi

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10-18-2004 06:03 PM  13 years agoPost 2
gt900uk

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Scotland

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Would 2cm a blade make any significant difference? Im not sure but i dont think it would be a good idea to cut them down. Would u ever trust a set of blades u had hacked the end off? It would damage the lamination and with the speed the blade tips go at i doubt it would be 2 safe but hey i may be wrong im sure someone with more knowledge will answer ur post. If the head is slowing make sure that the engine is tuned and that your curves are set up OK. I dunno what level of flying u r at but just a thought

This Heli Will Self Destruct In Five Seconds!!

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10-18-2004 07:30 PM  13 years agoPost 3
G-DAVE

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Tyne and Wear ,​England

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My local model shop only used to buy in nhp 55cm blades for the 30 sizes, and would cut them to length for you - if you needed 53's you got 53's tailor made .
I agree it seems dangerous but nobody ever brought them back or had a problem
Dave

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10-19-2004 10:07 AM  13 years agoPost 4
gt900uk

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Scotland

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Anyone else got an opinion on this? Interested to know if its safe to do such a thing?

This Heli Will Self Destruct In Five Seconds!!

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10-19-2004 10:18 AM  13 years agoPost 5
Crusty Commie

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Wales

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Dont use a hacksaw ...seriously if care is taken with a fine grade cutting disc in a dremel, it can be done, just make sure the end fibres are sealed with some resin, cyano is good but obviously not with a foam core
the tips are actualy quite lightly loaded, but experiance greater airflow, so as long as the fibres are intact and sealed, should me no problem

ps....take care to find where the weights in the blade are located, you dont really want to mess in that area

I am dsylexia of borg..resistance is fruity...your arse will be laminated

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10-19-2004 10:20 AM  13 years agoPost 6
bobj

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United Kingdom

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Hi

The older NHP 30 sized blades all had the weight in the same place but I am not sure about with the Razor's now and certainly the larger size of blades have different amounts of weights in different locations so you would have to be very careful when cutting any down.
My biggest concernt would be the sawing action loosening the lead weight, if in doubt then don't do it!

Cheers
Bob J

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10-19-2004 10:22 AM  13 years agoPost 7
Crusty Commie

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Wales

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damn beaten to it

I am dsylexia of borg..resistance is fruity...your arse will be laminated

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10-19-2004 10:48 AM  13 years agoPost 8
bobj

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United Kingdom

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Hi Janek

From memory I think 68cm's will "sort" of be ok on a C60, by this I mean for 3D they will not work and will probably clip the tail blades but
I do know of someone that used them for sports flying and they never clipped.

The C60 in all forms had a large head with a big spacing between the bolt holes so 68cm blades would probably give about the same rotor diameter as a Futura on 71cm's so will load the engine up a little more than you might expect but even so should still be ok with a 60 engine as long as set up correctly, the guy would just have to run less pitch.
When setting up any heli forget the actual pitch numbers (degrees) and just listen to the engine.

Cheers
Bob J

BTW long range forecast shows a nice sunny warm day with light winds, next July

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10-19-2004 08:57 PM  13 years agoPost 9
JustDoIt

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Albuquerque, NM

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parksi

The blade length isnt your problem.....leave them alone. If your running only +7 and getting blade stall you have got to have some serious tracking problems....Set your collective stick to whatever your 0 degree is, (it should be half stick) and pitch gauge both blades....if there both 0 then move the stick to get +5 degrees and pitch both blades....and at +7 which i think is to low you should shoot for more like +8 1/2 to +9 at least unless your just starting out. If the blades read different after you leave 0 degrees your linkage is not set up right.....all your linkage arms should be at 90 degrees to each other through the rods.....pay close attention to your washout arms and seesaw arms at 0 pitch.... they need to be the same. (level)

Its just like flyin the sim......

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