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HelicopterAerial Photography and Video › My First Aerials
10-18-2004 10:45 AM  13 years agoPost 1
mcatech

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Mount Gambier SA​Australia

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Hey Guy's
its been a long time in the Making but I finally Got some Aerial Shots for the First time here are some examples
And I am officially addicted to Aerial Photography its a great new element to RC Helis
Equipment Used
Robbe Cuatro Gasser
Hanson Pro 260 engine
Sab 810 assymetric's
Zimmerman Pipe
JR PCM 9X
JR 8425's on flight Controls
JR 6000G Gyro
Pwr box pro Isolator
2 2400 subc nicads (flight radio)
GV1 + Stator Gator

Helicam Solutions Pro 60 3X
Blackwidow Video Transmitter
Sony F828 8 megapixel camera
about 12 Months of Rooting around to get it all working perfectly

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10-18-2004 11:58 AM  13 years agoPost 2
groundeffect

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Canada

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welcome..

Welcome aboard!
Neat shots!


cheers,
Dean

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10-18-2004 12:42 PM  13 years agoPost 3
prebres

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Knoxville, Ohio

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Nice shots, tack sharp too.

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10-18-2004 12:57 PM  13 years agoPost 4
electro212

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Lancaster Pa

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spring time downunder

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10-18-2004 01:39 PM  13 years agoPost 5
mcatech

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Mount Gambier SA​Australia

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Thanks Guy's
Yeah definately Spring down here everything is greening up nicely and the days are getting longer perfect for Aerial's
I am very happy how my first attempts came out so hopefully its only forward from here
I am hanging out for next weekend to try again its very addictive
I have not had a problem with vibration at all which amazed me
I dropped the shutter speed to 240 for a test and the result was perfect indicating I could most definately go lower so sharp stills at dusk should be possible
Cheers Michael

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10-18-2004 04:34 PM  13 years agoPost 6
MPA

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Australia

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Nice work Mike

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10-18-2004 08:36 PM  13 years agoPost 7
fitenfyr

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Port Orchard,​Washington

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Maybe

I could most definately go lower so sharp stills at dusk should be possible
Something I found with my mount (sport 60) and my D70
Even though the mount will isolate the vibration down to slow speeds the ship moves too much to go below about 1/60th and still get sharp images. Even at 1/60th it was a crap shoot as to the sharpness of the overall image.
My high school photography instructor you to always tell us that anything below about 1/125th was no longer a hand held shot and that you should use a tripod. I have found that to be true over the years, but I am prety anal about sharpness in an image.

I will try and post a few to show you what I mean tomorrow.

Jason Stiffey
Fly Fast....Live Slow...

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10-19-2004 12:19 AM  13 years agoPost 8
mcatech

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Mount Gambier SA​Australia

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Thanks that will be most appreciated

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10-19-2004 02:39 AM  13 years agoPost 9
bell-230

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sonoma, ca​(currently milano​italy)

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great heli i love the robbe helis!

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10-19-2004 11:05 AM  13 years agoPost 10
Ozzy Pilot

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Victoria, Australia

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Well done Mike great photos. Keep up the great work and best of luck.

BTW $272 for the items we discussed.

Cheers
Noel

Member of Good Guy list (seller) Pg. 23. Turbines - Audile pleasuring

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10-19-2004 11:26 AM  13 years agoPost 11
mcatech

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Mount Gambier SA​Australia

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Thanks Noel most appreciated

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11-06-2004 09:18 AM  13 years agoPost 12
duczz

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Kerikeri, New​Zealand

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Yeah Michael, very impressive pictures, and the bonus that this was the first attempt, I would be happy too! Agree with you on the addictive buzz with taking aerials, adds a whole new dimension to our hobby. Look forward to more excellent pics from your area ... when do we get to see the blue lake?

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11-06-2004 09:32 AM  13 years agoPost 13
mcatech

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Mount Gambier SA​Australia

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Thanks Duczz

Lmao at Blue lake pics
Currently I am concerned of turning my Cuatro into a submarine
so I wont be taking any shots of the lake for a while yet
but I plan on taking a few of the Valley lake its easier to access
its just muddy brown instead of irredecent Blue
Cheers

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11-06-2004 10:31 AM  13 years agoPost 14
duczz

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Kerikeri, New​Zealand

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Hehe I dont think id want the job of recovering a Cuatro from the bottom of Lake Gambier either, it looks kinda deep when I was there last! would make an impressive photo though if you could pull it off somewhere from the saftey of terra firma.

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11-06-2004 11:10 AM  13 years agoPost 15
Clicky finger

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Christchurch, New​Zealand

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fitenfyr
My high school photography instructor you to always tell us that anything below about 1/125th was no longer a hand held shot and that you should use a tripod. I have found that to be true over the years, but I am prety anal about sharpness in an image.
I think as a rule of thumb, for hand held shots you don't go lower than the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens you are using assuming the use of a 35 mm camera. ie. if you are using a 135 mm lens, you stay at or above 1/135 of a second (or 1/125 which is the closest on most cameras). For a 50 mm focal length lens, you would choose 1/60th of a second (the closest to 1/50 sec on the shutter dial) etc.

Pete

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11-06-2004 12:37 PM  13 years agoPost 16
Graeme

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Jeffersonville, IN,​USA

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Not so sure that the lens' focal length has anything to do with it.

You can get a crisp, clear shot at 1/125th but, generally, the motion of your finger, (or even taking a breath), will cause a blur at 1/60th. Given that, I'd have to agree with the instructor's definition of hand-held.

Following the "reciprocal" formula, you might be tempted to try 1/30th for a 30mm lens - and there's no way you'll get a crisp shot, hand-held, at that speed.



Give a man a program and you frustrate him for a day; teach him to program and you frustrate him for life.

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11-06-2004 05:46 PM  13 years agoPost 17
fitenfyr

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Port Orchard,​Washington

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Correct

Pete,
You are correct. If you are using a longer focal length lens then you should move that shutter speed up accordingly.
1/60th is the "hard deck" so to speak. In that you should never attempt a hand held shot below that shutter speed.
This prevents camera shake from you hands. Now it has been done I am sure, but like I said it is just a "rule of thumb"

Here is that sample image I was telling you about. Sorry it took me so long. Haven't had much time in front of the computer I stored it in.

First up is the "bad" image.

If you notice the focus is locked on the subject, but the image is blurred at several noticable places. The lens was almost wide open at F4.5 and the shutter speed was at 1/80th of a second.
This was shot on full automatic. If I had kicked it over to apature priority with f/3.5 the shutter speed would have come up a tad, but still not enough to keep out the shake I feel.
Minimum shutter speed for me is now 1/125th of a second. If I can't get that then I bump up the ISO till I can and use noise reduction software to smooth out the image.

Now for the "better" one.

This image was shot in the middle of the day (hense the harsh light) at f/9 and a shutter speed of 1/320th. Notice that the image is overall sharp. The only "distortion" is due to the pixalation of the image (I did no post production work on either of these) and the harsh lighting.
If I had shot this one again on apature priority I could have gotten the shutter up even higher and removed all of the shake issues. (there are some in there still. )

Keep in mind if your camera does not allow you to choose apatures or shutter speeds then you can "trick" the camera into shooting "faster" by pushing the ISO, or setting it to a higher number.
For example most digital cameras want to shoot at ISO 200 which both of these were shot at. (equivelant because digital doesn't really have ISO values).
So lets say you think you will not get the shutter speed you want you can tell the camera to shoot at ISO 400. This will effectively double your shutter speed in most situations, but be careful of noise when shooting at 400 or higher "speeds"

Hope some of that helps.
Got fogged out of our job yesterday. Really bummed about that, but we scouted out several locations for the next good day all close.
Turn apples into apple juice sort of thing...

Jason Stiffey
Fly Fast....Live Slow...

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11-06-2004 07:22 PM  13 years agoPost 18
Clicky finger

rrNovice

Christchurch, New​Zealand

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fitenfyr
1/60th is the "hard deck" so to speak. In that you should never attempt a hand held shot below that shutter speed.
Agree 100% if you are using a 50 mm lens. If you are shooting with a 20 mm lens however, then you can 'safely' shoot at 1/20 of a second. The "hard deck" is dependent on the length of lens you are shooting with.

Pete

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11-06-2004 07:42 PM  13 years agoPost 19
Clicky finger

rrNovice

Christchurch, New​Zealand

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Graeme

[QUOTE]Not so sure that the lens' focal length has anything to do with it.

If you are looking at a subject through a pair of binoculars, you may notice, particularly if they are reasonably high powered, it isn't easy to keep the image still. A slight movement or shake of your hand makes the image you are viewing jump around. Now look at the same scene through your camera with a 50 mm lens on the front. You will find the image doesn't appear to jump around anywhere near as much. The focal length you are using has much to do with how still you can keep the image. The beauty about the reciprocal rule is that the shutter speed it suggests takes into account the length of the lens you are using. So, perhaps surprisingly, if you are using a 30 mm lens (remember we are talking 35 mm camera equivalents) a shutter speed of 1/30th of a second will be just as crisp (or shakey as the case may be!) as 250 mm lens shot at 1/250th of a second.

What we are talking about is 'Apparent Image Motion.' (AIM) There is a formula that ties all this together for shoot vertical aerial photographs:
AIM = fv/Hg where f= focal length, v is ground speed in m/s, and Hg is height above the ground.

AIM should be a maximum of 30 micrometres (0.030mm)

Pete

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11-06-2004 08:06 PM  13 years agoPost 20
fitenfyr

rrProfessor

Port Orchard,​Washington

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Different but same

Ok that is fine.
Theorys and rules of thumb are personal issues.
I have always found that less than 1/60th of a second yeilds poor results unless it it on a tripod or stabilized some other way.
Even with a wide angle lens (my main stay lens goes to 18mm) I would not shoot hand held less than 1/60th, but that is my choice.

Either way the idea I am trying to convey here is that you need a fast shutter speed when you are working with an aerial platform or you will end up with motion blur in your images.
What that fast shutter speed is for your own setup is up to you.
Shoot images and try different speeds to find the best solution for your own setups.

Jason Stiffey
Fly Fast....Live Slow...

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