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HelicopterThunder TigerOther › Raptor 90 SE ""WARNING"
05-06-2005 12:44 AM  12 years agoPost 101
Luckylandings

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Oregon USA

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you apply sleeve retainer between the hub and the output shaft
Ok, ill be the dumbass. What the hell is a sleeve retainer?

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05-06-2005 01:01 AM  12 years agoPost 102
tailrotordave

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Burbank, Ca

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Typically it is red locktite. The blue is for nuts and bolts and the red is used for more permanent fastening like retaining bearings and sleeves.

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05-06-2005 01:03 AM  12 years agoPost 103
Luckylandings

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Oregon USA

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Thanks man.. I know what the different colors or for. Never heard it called that before though.. I have been enlightened !

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05-06-2005 01:14 AM  12 years agoPost 104
D.C.heli

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Toronto, Canada

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Officialy the green is the retaining compound '635' for bearings or sleeves, but all will work to a point.

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05-06-2005 01:18 AM  12 years agoPost 105
Luckylandings

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Oregon USA

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So why not just say green, red, etc.

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05-06-2005 02:01 AM  12 years agoPost 106
tailrotordave

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Burbank, Ca

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I got this from the Loctite website regarding red loctite:

"Loctite® Threadlocker Red

OEM specified as 271

High temperature, high strength for heavy duty applications

Designed for larger fasteners 3/8" to 1" (9.5mm to 25mm)

Locks studs, bushings and large fasteners against vibration loosening

Strengthens slip and light press fits

Removable with heat and hand tools


Suggested Uses

Temperature range: -65 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit (-54 degrees to 149 degrees Celsius)

Use to secure metal to metal nuts and bolts on swing sets and ready-to-assemble furniture

01-27100 - .20 oz. Tube (6 ml)
01-32243 - 6 ml tube (Canada)"

While it may not be specifically designed for the same applications as green loctite, it does say it can be used on bushings. I have always considered blue to be for hardware that you service regularly, red for hardware you service infrequently, and green for hardware you never want to remove again..........

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05-06-2005 02:12 AM  12 years agoPost 107
Luckylandings

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Oregon USA

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I have always considered blue to be for hardware that you service regularly, red for hardware you service infrequently, and green for hardware you never want to remove again..........
Thats what I had in my head to...

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05-07-2005 01:57 AM  12 years agoPost 108
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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The simple fix to all this and without having to buy other manufacturers parts is to purchase 22mm setscrews (or longer if you can't find them), cut them down to 22mm, file the end down to a rounded point, install them with blue loctite. Finally, place washers under the nylocs. This will prevent a thrown blade due to more 'meat', and dramatically reduce blade grip wobble due to the removal of bearing end float. Do not over torque anything and it will last longer than you're next crash.
This applies to the whole range of TT helis.

Vegetable rights and Peace

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05-15-2005 12:38 PM  12 years agoPost 109
K-Lo

rrApprentice

Monterrey Mexico

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Why not

Get a standard 90 Shaft, hub, SCREWS and everything so you could at least fly the 90 SE?

Do what you can with what you have. Often is more than enough.

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09-11-2005 09:48 AM  12 years agoPost 110
rccopter

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Perth Australia

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Great post thanks.. good to see the input from Ace...

I believe the new kits may have changed this part but just want your help to confirm.

I just got a kit a few weeks ago and the set screw seems longer.

Here are some pictures:

The part in question is part number 5, it states here that its 18.5mm. I believe from the discussion above your guys had 18mm screws.

The end is still not a cone but perhaps not important as the length is longer.

Here the screw is fully screw into the hub with the lock nut beside for comparison.

Can one of you confirm that my part #5 is different from those in the kits you have had problems with?

Thanks Guys

www.perthrcheliclub.org.au

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09-11-2005 10:10 AM  12 years agoPost 111
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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I think you also need a washer under the nut to prevent end float on the bearings. If you look at your nut, the 6 points are schamfered. You will need to profile the end of the screw for correct engagement into the shaft dimples. With all that in place, does the end of the hex hole extend into the threaded portion of the nut ? If so, it's too short.
You can easily profile a cone by putting the screw in a dremmel and use a small file.
Blue loctite works just fine provided everything is nice and clean prior to assembly.
I also use that for sleeve retainer. Things can easily be separated with a bit of heat. This is the problem with high temp loctite, it's hard to separate with heat !

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09-11-2005 10:20 AM  12 years agoPost 112
rccopter

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Perth Australia

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oh crap my mistake, quickly whacked the parts together for a photo and forgot to line the setscrew up with the dimples, looks like if I profile the end of the screw and add a washer (even without profiling it or the washer) it will be too close for comfort. I’ll have to follow some advice from post above to change this…

Thanks Guy

www.perthrcheliclub.org.au

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09-11-2005 10:27 AM  12 years agoPost 113
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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The hex holes are abut 2.5mm, so yours looks a little close. You can always get longer ones and cut them down. Just make sure they are both the same length afterwards. ie to within 0.1mm as the tail blades rotate fast and balance is everything.

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09-11-2005 10:32 AM  12 years agoPost 114
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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Oh yes, I forgot to mention; you may find the washers bind a bit on the grips. Use a scalpel to remove just a wee bit of plastic. I also found that the M3 washers I had, had a hole of about 3.3mm, so I was careful to make sure the washer was centred just before nipping up. You dont want to overtighten the nyloc, and also use loctite on it.

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09-12-2005 11:43 PM  12 years agoPost 115
xagent

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Centreville, VA / MHA member

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I was just at the LHS and it seems that TT has a new design TR Hub. The set screw are now in the side of the hub and the treads for securing the bearings are simply part of the hub. The material now also seem to be SS.

Jeff...was this design change made to resolve the problem in this thread?

X

Someday, I might put a cute statement here.

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09-13-2005 01:24 AM  12 years agoPost 116
Jeff Swartz

rrKey Veteran

Ohio

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Guy, you are correct in the fact that you have the latest parts that are included with the SE kits. The first batch of SE's that were out over a year ago had set screws in them that had sharp points on the ends, and the ones that had potential problems.

I build my kits just as you have yours set up and have never needed the washer as the nut only holds the inner race of the bearing so it can work properly.

The new SUS tail hub will also eliminate many of the hub problems that some have experienced, but remember, It can snap also under rpm itf the nut is attached to tightly.

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09-13-2005 01:41 AM  12 years agoPost 117
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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Yes but the point I am making is that because the 6 points of the nyloc are schamfered, by the time the metal of the nut point meets the inner race, you can end up with a bit of end float. The washer stops this. I used to file the end of my nuts flat, but that leads to less meat.
And yes, these nuts must not be overtightened, just snugged up plus a bit of loctite for good measure.

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09-13-2005 11:59 AM  12 years agoPost 118
olivierparis

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PARIS FRANCE

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New hub

Hello all ,

I received last week tne New Hub ( PV 499 ) it seem better for our "babys" ,but im ok with Jeff , i think you have to make attention to not over tighten the nuts .

So i try to install it soon...

anyway i hope this new hub ( if its ok! of course) be delivery with all the new box of Raptor 50/90 .

best regards

Olivier

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09-22-2005 07:41 AM  12 years agoPost 119
ATHAM

rrVeteran

santa clara

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question

im in the process of building my 90se and i read this thread and i check mine kit still have old design hub system so im thinking to do what guymartin wrote:

The simple fix to all this and without having to buy other manufacturers parts is to purchase 22mm setscrews (or longer if you can't find them), cut them down to 22mm, file the end down to a rounded point, install them with blue loctite.

i agree with this but:
Finally, place washers under the nylocs. This will prevent a thrown blade due to more 'meat', and dramatically reduce blade grip wobble due to the removal of bearing end float.

this going to make not as tight as original and how big (inner and outer dia?) and how thick the washer i should put it in?

or just consider call heliproz and ask them to send me new hub system?
i got the kit from them last week

thanks for all input in this thread.
what else should i look closely other than this tail hub system?
currently i own 50v2 with 0 problem on the tail system

R90 SE YS91
trex600n YS50
trex450 v2 medusa
trex600 xl

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09-22-2005 08:47 AM  12 years agoPost 120
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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ATHAM
Just an ordinary M3 washer. This spreads the load (when spooled up) from just the outer edges of the nuts 6 points, to the whole base of the nut.

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HelicopterThunder TigerOther › Raptor 90 SE ""WARNING"
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