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HelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › Rx Battery Pack
06-06-2004 03:03 PM  13 years agoPost 1
spongebob1871

rrApprentice

Yokota Air Base, Japan

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curious what battery pack i should use for my gasser. i am going to go with all digital servos, and governor. i am building a predator gasser, which will be my first with digital servos, so i am unsure how much power i need to provide.

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06-06-2004 03:05 PM  13 years agoPost 2
pepper

rrVeteran

GREAT STATE OF TEXAS!!

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i would go with duralite's. well worth the money!!

pepper

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06-06-2004 04:23 PM  13 years agoPost 3
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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AA 1700mah

You can go with a NiCD 1700Mah AA size pack (which is the largest capacity in Nicd in AA size that I've found) and it should be fine for at least 4 flights which is enough in a day. Or you can go other types of batteries like NiMH or something else. I use the NiCD's still because I have them and they work good enough for me.

Just check whatever pack you use with an ESV meter after every flight so you know how many flights you can have with that particular pack. Once the ESV meter touches the high end of the red band, then you're done for the day.

-=>Raja.

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06-06-2004 06:52 PM  13 years agoPost 4
AGRAV8

rrProfessor

Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

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Personally

I use a high cap NiHm in my larger heli's. 3300 to 4500 MaH packs.

Maybe one day I can collect enough cans to afford the Li-poly setup.

James

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06-07-2004 12:23 AM  13 years agoPost 5
Jared J

rrApprentice

Harrisonburg, VA

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2400 5 cell sub c Nicads with regulator in mine.

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06-07-2004 12:37 AM  13 years agoPost 6
docramage

rrNovice

Warlingham, Surrey, UK

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NiMh flight packs

I just replace my flight pack with (Sanyo) NiMH 3300, 'cos I'm now using digital servos.

However, I got dire warnings at the field today from those much more experienced than me, suggesting the discharge curve 'knee' is so abrupt as to be d a n g e r o u s. Is this really the case in practice? ( - I use an on-board LED battery monitor, and my gyro displays the actual voltage)

Secondly, the pack is printed with instruction to charge at 330mA, but my reading of the best book I know on batteries suggests that I should be able to charge at 3A or even higher.

So, shouldI revert to Leyden Cells....think they don't work inverted...


Philip

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06-07-2004 01:24 AM  13 years agoPost 7
dariof

rrVeteran

Henderson, NV / Laguna Niguel, CA

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NiMh are fine, but you have to be very careful about the discharge. As the battery discharges, it drops voltage much quicker than the NiCd.

A 2700 NiMh may indicate when tested (using a meter capable of .5 and 1.0A loads) a volatage below the safe "fly" voltage (4.9v or so), but may actually take only a 1100-1200 charge to bring back to capacity. Is essence approx 1/2 the Mah are remaining, but the voltage is not there.

NiCd are safer from a drop voltage standpoint. THis means they lose their voltage much more consistent that NiMh (and more of the Mah are available for use), but they hold less MAh given the same size battery as a NiMh.

I just switched my gasser to the Duralite system. I flew today approx 1.5 hours on the 4000Mah pack, and their system still shows 7.4V under a 1 amp load. This is excellent since the recharge voltage is 6.9V.

BE VERY CERTAIN to ALWAYS test your battery using a load. I use a 1 amp load for my Fury Extreme and Fury Gasser (all digitals) and a .5 load for my 30 heli (only 1 digital). This is very important in assessing a "fly or no fly" situation. Also, the test should be conducted just AFTER a flight when the batteries have been working the hardest.

An on board LED and gyro voltage indicator are not accurate enough. They do not show the situation under load. It is impossible to see either when flying, and if you look at them while the heli is on the ground, there is no load.

Best Regards, Dario

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06-07-2004 01:32 AM  13 years agoPost 8
dariof

rrVeteran

Henderson, NV / Laguna Niguel, CA

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docramage

As the second part of your post (charging rate) it goes as folllows:

Nicd may be charged at 2C. This means at twice the rated capacity. So, a 2000Mah (2 Amp) Nicd may be charged at 4Amps.

NiMh are on a 1:1 ratio. Therefore, if you have a 2000 Mah (2 Amps) pack, you may charge at 2A.

THE REALITY is you do not want to charge at max rated. I charge my NiMh and NiCd at approx 0.4 - 0.8A/ This is a slow charge, so I just let it charge overnight. Your batteries will last longer and will not heat up using this method.

The Duralite system has it's own charger. However, Duralite recommends 0.4 Amp if you use a Triton or something similar......a slow charge to assure the pack is fully charged and no heat is generated.

Best Regards, Dario

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06-07-2004 01:46 AM  13 years agoPost 9
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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I just got a GP-3300 (sub-c) four cell NiMh pack from http://www.battlepack.com for less than $30.

Anyone who says Ni-Mh can't provide enough current should read the spec sheet: http://www.gpina.com/pdf/330sch - PBR043-01.pdf The GP3300 can handle 30A continuous. That's several times more than any all digital servo setup is going to draw.

Additionally, looking at the discharge curve fro battlepack.com http://www.battlepack.com/images/chart1.gif the curve Ni-Mh discharge curve doesn't too different compared to the Ni-Cd discharge curve.

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06-09-2004 03:15 PM  13 years agoPost 10
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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What about the weight?

All you guys are using C size batteries and/or several cells with regulators. Isn't weight the idea for "good practice" is setting up a model? Sure, we can put 12 lbs on a gasser in payload and still fly it, but, the lighter you keep it the better it is to throw around, right?

Anyway, don't mean to jump in and comment, but I just wanted to say put enough battery in there to suit your flying needs for a day. I see putting in 2.4 amp or even more like 3.3 or even 4.5 amp as some people say overkill. If you are coming home and your batteries are not close to being drained, then why do it? In that case you are using only the top 50% of power for your pack, so why not cut it in half and use most of it.

Of course people like to put big packs in there and say they have them. Its kinda like having a firari, you have to tell everyone you have it. I personally limit the battery size to AA, if its not in AA I don't want a C cell pack, since they are heavier. A good AA pack weighs about 4.7oz, a C size pack (or sub C) will weight about twice that much. Sure, I can get over 2 amps worth of capacity with a C size pack, but I only use about 1400mah in a day's worth of flying, so my 1700 is enough to suit me.

-=>Raja.

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06-09-2004 03:49 PM  13 years agoPost 11
ciarrzue

rrNovice

Ontario,Canada

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I would go with the Duralite's as well works great for me.

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06-09-2004 04:06 PM  13 years agoPost 12
electro-parts

rrNovice

El Salvador

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Duralites is the way to go,

I am using them in my tx and rx.

great product

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06-09-2004 04:19 PM  13 years agoPost 13
Raffy

rrElite Veteran

Chicago, Illinois

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With all the hi-tech electronics sucking too much juice requires hi-tech batteries for peace of mind - Invest on Duralite!
Less weight, more flying time.

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06-10-2004 03:48 AM  13 years agoPost 14
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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What about the weight?
Do you really think 4oz. is going to make a difference? The 1700AU cells have a high internal resistence and the small AA cells can't deliver the current of the larger (sub-c) cells. The cost of a GP3300 4 cell pack vs. a 4 cell 1700AU pack is only about $10-$15 difference. For full a digital setup I think the added weight/cost is worth the security of the extra capacity. Your mileage may vary.

Quite frankely, I'm not all that impressed with the Duralites.

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06-10-2004 11:02 AM  13 years agoPost 15
BIGRCR

rrVeteran

Easley, South Carolina

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I know for one thing, the gas machines can stay up much longer than the glow counterparts. Many gas machines can get 45 minutes to an hour of flight time on a 20-22 ounce tank of fuel and use digital servos and heading lock gyros.
I went for a weight savings in my gas SE and installed a 10 ounce tank in replacement of the 20 ounce one and can still fly 20-25 minutes on a tank. This will stress even the best 1700 mah battery!
I really started sweating during a flight when a friend would be flying my gas bird (after I had already been flying for a while) with the nickel metal packs I was using.

I switched to the Duralite Plus system and now I don't sweat it out any more. It is great to get more than 2 flights on a pack before getting unsure about the battery! Now I can just go out for a weekend of flying and just check the batteries and smile!

I was most worried using the nickle metal packs of voltage "spike" drops during a flight as I had no good way to monitor for that. The Nicads in enough capacity were way too heavy to put in my 12 lb. gas machine.

OH, BTW, 4 ounces does make a difference when flying heavy 3-D.

Later,

BIGRCR- John Garst

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06-10-2004 11:52 AM  13 years agoPost 16
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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John, what size Duralite pack are you using? Many guys are running the 4A pack which weighs 6.6oz. Add another 0.6 oz for the regulator and you're up to 7.2oz. Thus, the weight savings isn't much over a 4-cell sub-c pack.

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06-10-2004 04:14 PM  13 years agoPost 17
dariof

rrVeteran

Henderson, NV / Laguna Niguel, CA

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Ace Dude:

I am also using the Duralites. For me, the issue is really not so much weight savings over another sub-c type battery. In fact, I removed my sub-c NiCd (2200) in favor of the Duralites.

The issue with me is flying (all day) without worrying about what voltage is remaining in the pack. The Duralites just keep on going.

Having said that, the pack you are flying is also an excellent pack. I know many that are using the 3000 NiMh. They definitely power the electronics for ample time prior to voltage drop.

I am so pleased with my Duralites on my gasser, I am going to put them on my R50V2 as well. I know I can get away with 2700NiMh, or even 1800Nicd, but those Duralites just keep on going.....and I would rather save the charging for the bench at home rather than break out the chargers at the field, wait around for awhile, etc.

Just me, but I can understand as well what others are saying about the Duralite longevity.

Best Regards, Dario

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06-10-2004 04:59 PM  13 years agoPost 18
nivlek

rrProfessor

Norfolk England

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You can go with a NiCD 1700Mah AA size pack
Rbort,
Where did you find 1700Mah AA nicads?The largest AA nicads I can
find are only 1000Mah, so I am using sub -C nicads because I don't want to use nimh cells.

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06-10-2004 05:30 PM  13 years agoPost 19
Heli-Driver

rrElite Veteran

Arlington, TX

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I'm running Lipo and a Duralite regulator and I will be dropping this into my new gasser.

The benefits of having the extra capacity is very appealing especially when you consider the extended flight times a gas heli provides.

I have a 1950mah pack in my 9Z and 4400 for the gasser rx. that and a gallon of white gas ought to make for a full day of fun!

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06-10-2004 05:43 PM  13 years agoPost 20
NoSoMo

rrApprentice

Atlanta

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I am about to change my setup. Honestly, the best way to go is a 4Ah 7.2V lithium setup. If you regulate that down to 5.4V You actually get about 5Ah worth of 5.4V. Some of that will feed the regulator but the benefit is that you have redundancy in your packs, and a lot of power behind them!

Of course you'll have to spend about 70$ on the pack, but you definetly get your monies worth!

I would love to use a 14.4V pack on my camera rig, even at 4Ah it would still way the same as my 2200Mah NiMh pack and have almost 3x the energy!

There's a reason I don't go to electrics..........BATTERIES.......I hate having to still share that issue even the slightest bit!

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