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06-03-2004 03:45 PM  13 years agoPost 1
jameswill4

rrVeteran

Pineville KY

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I have a question. I know that the voyager is a non driven tail, but with the slipper is it still possible to do aerobatic autos or does it take to much away from the tail?

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06-03-2004 03:49 PM  13 years agoPost 2
jameswill4

rrVeteran

Pineville KY

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Also guys what gear ratio are you guys running, the stock or are some of you switching pinions. I ask because I have heard if you switch the pinion do you also use a diffrent Muscle pipe(the one for the raptor and evo) ? Which seems to have more punch?

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06-03-2004 07:03 PM  13 years agoPost 3
learjetcb

rrApprentice

Topeka ks. usa

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yes you would have to change pipes to the rappy evo mp2. if you change gear ratios. i like the 8.8 gear ratio in my voyager higher head speed = faster clime outs. and yes you can do aerobatic autos with a slipper. you just want to set the slipper as loose as you can and lube the o ring. that slipper doesn't need to be squezed on as tight as you can get it. if you do put it to tight it will drag to much off the head.

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06-03-2004 08:27 PM  13 years agoPost 4
JFields

rrApprentice

Tuscaloosa, Al

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Speaking of autos,

I cant get more than 11 degress of pitch on my blades with the current stock setup. What do I need to do to get that extra couple degrees of pitch for the autos?

Change the rod lengths (what would I have to do?)

Change radio settings?

Thanks

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06-03-2004 08:38 PM  13 years agoPost 5
BlackThunder

rrNovice

Cambridge, ON

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A high cyclic main rotor hub will do.

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...?prod=JRP960200

Unfortunately Horizon Hobby is currently out of stock and no ETA. I've wrecked my hub in my last crash and currently had to settle for the regular hub.


Cheers,

Tom

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06-03-2004 10:11 PM  13 years agoPost 6
learjetcb

rrApprentice

Topeka ks. usa

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First tell me your rod lenths and we will go from there. at least before we get into your radio programs. it is most likely your rod lenths i can get +15 and -15 if i want. all your rod lenths sould be set to the directions for 3d. and then the ones that are not marked on page 22 4-6 c swashplate to seesaw arm should be 16mm as mesured in pic. also made sure to 90 your servo arms.

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06-05-2004 03:21 AM  13 years agoPost 7
JFields

rrApprentice

Tuscaloosa, Al

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My arms are about 17.5 mm

So I guess I need to shorten them to 16mm huh?

Well that sucks. All my curves will have to be changed! Oh well, I will do what I have to to get the pitches I need.

Thanks!

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06-05-2004 03:28 AM  13 years agoPost 8
learjetcb

rrApprentice

Topeka ks. usa

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yep it would help. as you can tell by shortening thoughs links it will give you more pitch. glad i could help.

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06-05-2004 04:07 AM  13 years agoPost 9
Lock-Tite

rrVeteran

Quebec, Canada

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I just check mines, they were 18mm, I ajusted down to 16mm and lost positive pitch, and gained negative...+9/-12 (oposite as you guys)...

I brought them back to 18mm, now have +12/-9

Frank
Dont forget to bring a clean pair of shorts when flying 3D ;)

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06-05-2004 04:31 AM  13 years agoPost 10
learjetcb

rrApprentice

Topeka ks. usa

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know that i think about it your right lock-Tite. you would loose + but you still want 16mm. 18 can get you in trouble at that lenth i can hit the head with those links and have had one come off in flight full roll just finished my 2 roll and one link poped off. change your upper links to compensate for those lower ones being shorter.

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06-05-2004 04:34 AM  13 years agoPost 11
learjetcb

rrApprentice

Topeka ks. usa

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oh yeah don't forget to redo you pitch setings.

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06-05-2004 04:42 PM  13 years agoPost 12
JFields

rrApprentice

Tuscaloosa, Al

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I dont think that adjusting your lengths are going to give you more TOTAL pitch, only move the amount of pitch you already have, up and down. Supposedly to get more pitch you have to adjust your values for your channels in the CCPM section of your radio. I will mess with this later today.

Thanks!

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06-05-2004 08:30 PM  13 years agoPost 13
JFields

rrApprentice

Tuscaloosa, Al

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Ok, I adjusted the links to 19mm and added -10% to the pitch value in the CCPM section.

This gives me exactly +13 degrees and -11 degrees at 100% travel in the pitch curves section. This gives me a total of 24 degrees of pitch and still leaves enough room at the very top and bottom to prevent binding with cyclic inputs.

I'll take her for a spin tommorrow and see how she does .

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06-06-2004 01:54 AM  13 years agoPost 14
learjetcb

rrApprentice

Topeka ks. usa

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just be carfull about those links hitting the head and i would put on a cyclic ring to keep out of the corners just in case. it cost me 600 bucks for running mine at 18.5 and that link coming off. i have all my links as directed and swash set level with a swash leveler and i can get +13 -11
with no probs for a year now. as i said i would ajust the upper links to get your proper balence and ajust the others to 16mm. go linnear on your curves see what your throw + - is. then if you don't have enough throw after you have leveled your swash at 0 full+ and full- then recheck + - pitch. you can go into you swash mix and change the pitch value to incress your pitch. the main resson i stress the 16 is just because it has made me have that big crash. it didn't bind on the bench when i set it up that way. the next time i got it together i spun the blades on the bench and held full posotive withfull aileron and it poped off. just hopping that this doesn't happen to anyone else good luck.

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06-06-2004 03:21 AM  13 years agoPost 15
JFields

rrApprentice

Tuscaloosa, Al

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Thanks for the tip!

I'll keep a close tab on everything and go easy with the first flight.

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06-06-2004 01:34 PM  13 years agoPost 16
Lock-Tite

rrVeteran

Quebec, Canada

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mine at 18.5 and that link coming off.
learjetcb, can you tell us what you did (manouver) when the link poped out ?
What was your cyclic +4/-4 or more ?

Frank
Dont forget to bring a clean pair of shorts when flying 3D ;)

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06-06-2004 06:33 PM  13 years agoPost 17
learjetcb

rrApprentice

Topeka ks. usa

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cyclic was +-6 and i was doing fff with three rolls i was about 25 feet out and about 30 feet up the 2 roll was infront of me i had 5 people with me we all seen something fall off. the third roll was out of control iwent for my heli the outhers found the link. i called another guy that has the same heli set up the same. and on the bench he could get that link to pop off to at the 18.5mm. we called ron lund and he had the right mesurement witch was 16mm and then i bought that swash level. to make sure i was lifting the swash level at 0 -11 +13 my 8311 were suprisingly off allot. know it flyes beautifuly. and i thought it flew great to begian with.

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06-07-2004 07:37 PM  13 years agoPost 18
JFields

rrApprentice

Tuscaloosa, Al

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The one thing I cant figure out is how making that rod that length could pop the link off. 11 degrees is to the blades will always look the same at that top link. The length will only effect where the swash sits on the main shaft. If you extend the length of the link it only moves the swash DOWN. So before I go flying this thing like this, could someone explain to me what I am not seeing?

Thanks!

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06-07-2004 08:53 PM  13 years agoPost 19
Lock-Tite

rrVeteran

Quebec, Canada

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JFields, same thing here, I dont see the difference.

The MOST important thing for me is that there must be no "Break-Effect" on the head (binding), I test that by rotating the MainGear and trying Max/Min Pitch while doing full Cyclic rotation.
If it "clunks" somewhere, or the rotor slows down too much, there is a problem, otherwise I fly it. And I also make sure that the ball links are not too lose.


Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Frank
Dont forget to bring a clean pair of shorts when flying 3D ;)

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06-07-2004 11:21 PM  13 years agoPost 20
JFields

rrApprentice

Tuscaloosa, Al

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Yeah, I use something similar to check that. Boy, I would hate to trash this thing because of something like this... especially since they are uh, you know, discontinuing the Voyager

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