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HelicopterBergen R/C Helicopters › Stripped my tailrotor bevel gears.
06-01-2004 06:16 PM  13 years agoPost 1
IncredibleITGuy

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Portland, Maine

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No crash though. I was doing a few inverted piro's, and climbing out
when they let go.

Any hints on properly setting up my new gears? Luckily I bought a spare set when I bought my extra main gears!

I have several gassers, just curious if it is going to be as sensative as the MA bevel gears etc.

------------IITG------------

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06-01-2004 06:35 PM  13 years agoPost 2
Brian Bennett

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Dugway/Tooele UT, USA

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ITG,

OHHHH NOOOO! I hope you got it down in one piece.

Setting the mesh:
A lot of pilots are setting theirs by feel. I prefer the following but there are several approaches to doing it and getting the right tolerence.

I take a plastic bag of the thinner type. Not the one that comes packaging the Bergen parts its a little thick for the tail. Cut a strip and place it in between the tail gears. Now slide the shaft aft to compress the gears together and tighten the setscrew up while holding it with light to medium pressure. Rotate to remove the strip and check for smooth turning and true running. I usually have a ever so slight ( I mean very slight) bumpy feeling when rotating the tail drive. This is non-detectable after the first tank. This approach has worked for me flawlessly for the last 2 years on my Intrepid TTube 50. I just started running my 91 3d. I havent pushed any hard maneuvers with the 90 but did so with the 50. In the latter, the gears survived several good crashes set like this too. Can't say that for the output shaft

Brian

Team MRC-Hirobo and Model Avionics Rep

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06-01-2004 09:40 PM  13 years agoPost 3
IncredibleITGuy

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Portland, Maine

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endplay

is there any play in the gears - ?

I seem to remember the gear coming out of the back of the boom (drive) had a little play in it. It could slide forward and backwards just
a little bit. I felt that this could change the mesh and cause an issue, even though it was very slight.

Thoughts?

p.s. I just flipped it over with the motor off and auto'd it.

------------IITG------------

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06-02-2004 12:59 AM  13 years agoPost 4
Brian Bennett

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Dugway/Tooele UT, USA

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None in mine. If there is any play it would be in the aft direction from a loose bearing race and that is stopped by the output gear and mesh.

Brian

Team MRC-Hirobo and Model Avionics Rep

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06-02-2004 02:01 AM  13 years agoPost 5
dariof

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Henderson, NV / Laguna Niguel, CA

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Ryan:

The Bergen tail gears come from the factory already pre-assembled. There is a post that Malorie put up a few months ago. It explains how to disassemble the factory set-up tail gears and check for correct mesh.

I did not do this, as I assumed it was set properly. However, my buddy Nelson did check his after Malorie placed her post on RR. You may want to run a search for her post. It was well written.

Dario

Best Regards, Dario

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06-02-2004 04:46 AM  13 years agoPost 6
dariof

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Henderson, NV / Laguna Niguel, CA

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Here is the link:

http://runryder.com/helicopter/t88162p1

Best Regards, Dario

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06-02-2004 05:06 PM  13 years agoPost 7
IncredibleITGuy

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Portland, Maine

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parts

the tr gears I have come pre-fitted to the shafts. That makes things a little easier.

Thanks for the link.

------------IITG------------

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06-09-2004 04:48 AM  13 years agoPost 8
IncredibleITGuy

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Portland, Maine

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Instructions for TR

I have been flying my pro2K and others while my gasser is downed. I went to work on it tonight to find as I imagined everything with locktite. so I was going to apply some heat.. but before I did I wanted to test fit my wrench(s)- to my despair, none of them fit - not that they are not the right size, but I think the set screws have been torqued in.

Besides buying more parts for this thing, any suggestions on the quickest way to change the 2 plastic gears? I bought the gearset already, and it came with one floating gear, and the other mounted to a shaft.

I flipped through my manual but couldn't find what seemed to be the documentation on this one. A little help?

------------IITG------------

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06-09-2004 07:04 AM  13 years agoPost 9
IncredibleITGuy

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Portland, Maine

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Solidworks

Ok, now I am seeing the instructions popping up now. I made some dinner and came back to it and I see the steps showing. I am going to have bear of a time just getting step 1 completed.

I'll give it some thought

------------IITG------------

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06-09-2004 11:40 AM  13 years agoPost 10
Malorie

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Paw squared, MI

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I have found that if a set screw head has been stripped out, you can use a 1/16" driver to remove it. The 1/16" driver is just a touch larger than the 1 1/2mm and fits nicely in the setscrew.

Life's a journey, NOT a destination.

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06-09-2004 01:32 PM  13 years agoPost 11
IncredibleITGuy

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Portland, Maine

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I think I have that covered - engineers think alike?

I'll give it a try tonight before I take a hammer to it.

worse case scenario is I have to drill it out, or destroy it w/ my dremel.. in that case I would probably need a new housing..

How much does a new housing cost?

------------IITG------------

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06-09-2004 01:48 PM  13 years agoPost 12
Malorie

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Paw squared, MI

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OUCH!!!
The other possability is to find a hex wrench that is slightly oversized for the stripped out hole. Then drill the setscrew just slightly undersized for that wrench. Then use the wrench to broach the setscrew to that size. Viola!! Now just turn it out and away you go.

I have used this method when all else failed.

If dpesn't get it, drill out the setscrew. Then just drill and tap a new setscrew hole in a different location. That setscrew only needs to be in a position to hold the sleeve in place. It doesn't NEED to be in that specific location.

There is always the heli-coil option if you have a kit.

Best of luck,
Malorie

Life's a journey, NOT a destination.

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06-10-2004 11:41 PM  13 years agoPost 13
IncredibleITGuy

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Portland, Maine

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$

How much is an assembled TR from Bergen? Is this worth my time to drill this all out etc?

I've drilled out the set screw as in step one, and some aluminum went with it - so I am going to have to get a bolt that will fit that.. I guess that is fine. Now I have to drill the collar that holds it onto the torque/drive tube.

Also looking at the set screws on the ends of each gear look like they are going to be drilled as well, as any wrench I have doesn't quite fit it.
I do not think this is going to work as replacing them will give me a loose fit due to the drilling.

* I just had to take a break, as I am really ticked off @ this thing right now. I have 6 set screws I am unable to remove. I've used a soldering iron to heat them, I used hardened keys/wrenches, I even tried a dremel with a cut-off on the drive collar. I've successfully cut (ruined) the collar, but the set screw remains. I was lucky to get one out of the tr hub, but the other is stuck in there as well.

I did not wear these down myself mind you . I just plunked the wrench in and they were already rounded / loose. *

So, I guess my Bergen stays grounded until I figure out the best game plan.

we're @ 3.5hrs so far.

------------IITG------------

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06-11-2004 02:40 AM  13 years agoPost 14
IncredibleITGuy

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Portland, Maine

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update

I bought a soldering iron that is butane fired, and also upgraded my eletric soldering iron to a high output weller gun. Also bought another new set of wrenches:

After basically deep frying the collar on the drive tube I managed to get one set screw out. I gave up on the others...

I also got both set screws completely out of the TR hub! This is exciting news, seeming when I take a SAWS-ALL and cut the TR off my boom, I get to keep the TR Hub, grips and blade! Yay for me!

The set screw in the end of the output shaft is stripped just by looking at it, and I have not even bothered with it yet. Straight from the factory I believe ?

5hrs now. Atleast I got some new tools out of it?

Happy Hovering,
Ryan

------------IITG------------

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06-11-2004 09:04 AM  13 years agoPost 15
Chris Bergen

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cassopolis, MI USA

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Before it gets too much worse, Could I talk you into sending it to me, and I'll get it rebuilt for you.

The only wrenches we have found to work consistently are the hardened allen drivers. The angle allen wrenches are too prone to rounding off. Even so called hardened ones are softer than the HSS drivers.

I'll PM you my address here in GA.

Chris D. Bergen

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06-11-2004 01:26 PM  13 years agoPost 16
IncredibleITGuy

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Portland, Maine

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Sure~

I'll gladly pay you. Maybe I just don't have the right tools for the job?

You'll have to give me a link to get some new drivers. The current ones I have were $40-50 or so. They are pretty tough.. not the $7 ones you can get everywhere.

I'll give you a call later today to talk about it.

Thank you!

------------IITG------------

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06-11-2004 03:27 PM  13 years agoPost 17
Brian Bennett

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Dugway/Tooele UT, USA

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ITG, send that unit in to Chris. It's not often you get an offer like that. You had a string of "bads" so far, I hope you can get it back in the air. The Bergen really is a great bird.

Brian

Team MRC-Hirobo and Model Avionics Rep

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06-11-2004 08:02 PM  13 years agoPost 18
RussR

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Tampa, Florida

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Read this thread with interest because I'm rebuilding my gearbox after having found a bad bearing - it seems the input shaft had a slight bend in it, or some runout that may have been the result of a previous crash.
Is it recommended to put any type of grease/lube in the spacer tube that houses the input shaft? It would be between the bearings and would seem to lube them over time. Anyone doing this? If not, what do you do to maintain your tail bearings over time?

Thanks,
Russ

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06-11-2004 08:50 PM  13 years agoPost 19
IncredibleITGuy

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Portland, Maine

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Bad Luck

I imagine it's just that. Not to inflate egos or anything, but I am a very good pilot with little to no complaints about the machine (got a vibration I am trying to track down.. pesky lil thing)

I have ordered previous parts without asking any questions, and I will continue to be a good customer.. sometimes I just need a little help occasionally

------------IITG------------

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06-12-2004 12:12 AM  13 years agoPost 20
Brian Bennett

rrKey Veteran

Dugway/Tooele UT, USA

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ITG The truth is we can use a little help now and then!

Good luck!

Brian

Team MRC-Hirobo and Model Avionics Rep

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HelicopterBergen R/C Helicopters › Stripped my tailrotor bevel gears.
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