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HelicopterHIROBOOther › FREYA TANK MOUNTING
05-31-2004 10:42 AM  13 years agoPost 1
modelhangar

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Preston Lancashire

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Tank support Freya/xspec
Has any body out there tried mounting the tank on he freya differently from using those little rubber frame inserts. I had considered making some adjustable plastic bolts so the heads fit into the recess on the tank. I am on my second set of rubber supports and find they just eventualy disintegrate.
The only bit of the stock freya I have not upgraded to the xspec are the side frames which I was about to order from CarbonXt. However has any one got the part numbers for the fan housing Any ideas out there Cheers thanks in anticipation of some brill ans.

we all fail sometimes just as well if we didnt we would learn nothing modelhangar

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05-31-2004 12:13 PM  13 years agoPost 2
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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part no.s

no help on the mods sorry but I have my manual here as I am building mine at the moment (x-spec)
fan housing part no. 0404-044
cooling cover stay 0404-713
the cooling cover stay may be needed with the carbon frames?
I wouldn't imagine any harder sort of mounting would do the fuel any good because of foaming due to vibes. Just my two cents
Glenn

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05-31-2004 12:53 PM  13 years agoPost 3
MJA

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UK

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I ruined the original tank rubbers,while waiting for some new ones
i tried something which worked good.6 short little sticks of sullivan snake inner (the yellow bits) glued into the frames.Then 6 little rubberised plastic dust covers with a bit cut off them(i used DDF coax plug dust covers
that just happen fit the tank recesses exactly)
glued onto the posts with silicon.It was a nightmare to check& get them all in place initially, but great when the silicon has set.


Martin

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05-31-2004 01:20 PM  13 years agoPost 4
modelhangar

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Preston Lancashire

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Thanks Glann for the parts numbers that really is a great help, good luck with the build you will love it when its finished.
Cheers Martin nice to know someone else has had trouble with these damm things, like the idea of the post sil. in.
Cheers guys

best regards
Neil

we all fail sometimes just as well if we didnt we would learn nothing modelhangar

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05-31-2004 11:08 PM  13 years agoPost 5
MJA

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UK

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Neil,
I think your idea of using round headed bolts (something with no sharp edges)screwed through from the inside
is much easier to do,i couldn't find anything suitable at the time,but i had thought of trying that
It would give no damping to the tank unless they were a slack fit,but with a soft mounted header tank that wouldn't matter to me.If the bolt heads are too small, it would be better to still silicon the tank in i think as with it chittering around full of fuel it'll wear the recesses,even if they were nylon/plastic bolts.

It was carbon frames that ruined my tank rubbers,i should have shamfered the frame hole edges first.I also pulled the non buttoned end through the frame holes which i didn't do with the plastic frames when i bothered to read the instructions.I'd forgotten they just sit on the inside tack glued in place.


Martin

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06-01-2004 03:45 AM  13 years agoPost 6
R/C Speed Nut

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Galesburg, Michigan USA

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I heard the new Eagle 3 tank uses Sceadu style mounts, can the frames be modified to use those mounts?


Mike

Funky Chicken?!!..........I thought this was how you do a piro flip!!

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06-01-2004 07:54 AM  13 years agoPost 7
modelhangar

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Preston Lancashire

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Thanks Martin / Mike
Martin I was thinking of using an M3 plastic bolts but sitting it into the tank with silicoln or some form of rubber grommet which would add a little flexibility, but more importantly did not damage the tank. This really is flimsy when compared to the way Robbe fit the tank in something like the Millenium 3 where its absolutely solid. I have the header tank fitted and agree with you why worry about the main tank.
Thanks also for the info on fitting the carbon frames with the rubber inserts this was to be my next conversion so welcomed comments.

Mike the Scubi fittings on the new version evo are like a button grommet with a piece of rubber extenting to the inside of the frames and fit from the outside glued in, the tank thens sits between the frames as usual. I did think of this conversion but the grometts may fall short to reach the indents in the freya tank and the frames are a lot thinner. I may re visit this one if all else fails and thanks for the thought, may be some one out there has already tried it?

cheers guys I will keep you posted as to how the concept works I will do it with the plastic frames first

back to work:0( what a waste of good flying time but pays for the bits

we all fail sometimes just as well if we didnt we would learn nothing modelhangar

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06-01-2004 09:36 AM  13 years agoPost 8
mrNoodles

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Borlänge, Sweden

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Here´s picture of Eagle3 tank rubber mounts.

/Fredrik
'Hm now I just have to find out where to connect the GV1 sensor to the Jazz80 ESC.

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06-01-2004 06:05 PM  13 years agoPost 9
MJA

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UK

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If i can think of/find anything else ready made for the job that's easy to get hold of,preferable non RC related, so will also cost peanuts
And fits the tank indents exactly plus the frame holes,i'll post back.

Some round ended softish plastic pegs with short bits of fuel tubing over them would probably last forever (if the tubing doesn't split)
,glued into the frame holes and a dab of silicon on the open tube end nearest the tank ,to stop any chance of the peg end ever coming through & puncturing or wearing the tank indents
You could always drill them out of the frames if required.It should give a moderate amount of isolation and hopefully not need re siliconing or any attention


Martin

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