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HelicopterHIROBOOther › auto pitches for freya 90
04-26-2004 11:30 PM  13 years agoPost 1
mustang1349

rrApprentice

nash Texas

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well to day i auto my freya for the first time and it fell fast and didnt seem to have enought postive pitch to slow it down. i have it set at +10 but its just no doing it. not sure what it should be. im gessing 13 or more
thanks

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04-27-2004 03:56 PM  13 years agoPost 2
MJG

rrApprentice

Planet Earth

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You can actually auto at 10 degrees but it's marginal especially if no wind. However, 10 - 12 is fine. Using 13 degrees I think may just stall the blades. I use minus 6 and control the descent. 4 - 6 is good, 6 is helpfull in the windy days, 4 is all you need when it's calm.

Tip; as you aproach for landing, about 30 feet up, coming in at an agle, your model should be in a position where back elevator should be introduced to slow the model down BEFORE you start to feed in positive pitch. This saves a lot of the rotor inertia for controlling the final 10 feet on the collective. This works well for me - have a go next time.

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04-27-2004 04:37 PM  13 years agoPost 3
KMorgan

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Bonnie Scotland

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I'm just starting to get the hang of autos too.

-4/ +12is what I've been using. -4 actually seems to be too much negative. It drops like a stone and I need to increase the pitch slightly to allow me to maneouvre the heli and achieve a more comfortable rate of descent. I think -3 will probably be ideal. I won't be changing the curve , however, as I may need the extra -ve to spin the blades up, one day when I least expect it.

As for the top end pitch, I've not tried it with +10. +12 seems to work well. With my set up, +12 and full cyclic causes slight binding, but I figure if I'm in that situation I'll have other things to worry about!

My initial attempts were vertical drops. I'm now trying to fly the model in at 45-50 deg. The excess energy in this situation seems to be much more. As MJG says, the flare seems to save, or even add energy. My first couple of attempts resulted in the model flashing straight past the landing spot at about 20mph! It took me totally by surprise. A safe landing was still achieved in the long grass. I found I could aim 20 or 30 yds short of the landing spot and then flare the model into a brief hover in the correct place. That was yesterday. More practise tomorrow, I hope.

I have seen other people destroy their models attempting to abort an auto from low level with no head speed. So, I have decided that an auto should only be aborted up high with the blades spun up. The damage done from flopping a model onto a poor landing site, with no energy in the blades should be minimal (I even managed to plop my Freya into a tree with zero damage).

K

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04-27-2004 10:47 PM  13 years agoPost 4
mustang1349

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nash Texas

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ill give +12 a go when i go flying next t
thanks guys

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04-28-2004 10:38 AM  13 years agoPost 5
MJG

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Planet Earth

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Hi KMORGAN - damn, I missed your drop into the trees at Cumbernauld. Didn't realise it was a messed up auto.

That was a very windy day, you almost have to hit the throttle hold when the model is over your head on a day like that otherwise it will end up 100 yards downwind from where you intended.

Might see you at CVF this weekend - gotta show those Raptor boys how good the Freya is!

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04-28-2004 02:45 PM  13 years agoPost 6
KMorgan

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Bonnie Scotland

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MJG

It was a forced auto that put me in the trees. That's when I decided I had to start learning to do them properly.

The tail control broke and the heli was pirouetting like crazy. I've seen a couple of attempts at landing a spinning chopper, both ending in tears, so I decided to hit throt-hold. It's a driven tail so it kept spinning, but not so fast. I just kept feeding in collective till it ran out of energy above that tree. Got away with it.

Was practising autos again this morning. Totally cocked one up (the others were half cocked), Applied my rule of never aborting low down. This time I suffered a cracked blade and a broken u/c leg. Ah well, could have been worse.

The model rushing past me is, I think, caused by feeding in collective before flaring. I should have read your advice above more carefully.

Off to Elie for the weekend, so won't see you at CVMHC.

You're Mike with the Eagle and the Freya? Have I got that right?

Keith

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04-29-2004 08:01 AM  13 years agoPost 7
MJG

rrApprentice

Planet Earth

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Hi KMORGAN,

Yup, that's me. Freya EX and a Standard Freya.

Sorry to hear about the auto. Bang goes a set of fine Hirobo blades. I got on really well with those kit blades but I don't know if Irvine supply replacements.

Keep practicing, remember there is an auto-spot competition at the Scottish Heli Nationals in Aberdeen - see you their maybe?

Cheers.

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06-14-2004 12:02 PM  13 years agoPost 8
bigglesbutler

rrVeteran

Aberdeen, Scotland

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Recovery

When you do an auto in the real thing, S61 for me. You HAVE to flare first, then pull in lever. The flare increases the rotor rpm, and if you have messed up will actualy allow you to recover the rpm. For example If you have been manouvering to get into a specific spot, or if you have had to stretch the auto to make a clearing. One thing I have noticed on my freya with the stock blades, is the fact with a nice breeze you dont need to flare much. Due to the immense amounts of inertia in the blades.

If you have had to stretch the auto, or have been manouvering it, try varying the flare, level, THEN pull collective. You will find hopefully a heli in one piece at the bottom. This is all theory really, as I have done LOADS of autos in the real thing. But only one real auto with my freya. If in doubt try and find some video of the real thing doing it, and emulate that. You can get away with a lot more on a model, as they have a much higher inertia.

Si

Si

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HelicopterHIROBOOther › auto pitches for freya 90
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