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Hitec RCD ProModeler
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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As described, the Proguard contributes nothing to your set up but expense and added complexity. You don't need a device to detect if BEC voltage drops because the buffer pack wired directly as I described cushions or replaces any drop all in real time. It is a real time, proactive system rather than a reactive one. Any device that needs "see" and voltage drop before it supplies will never be a good as the simple set up the Kontronik esc's allow. Not all esc's are capable of working this way because they will back feed voltage from the buffer pack. Since the Kontronic esc will not, devices like the Proguard are not needed. No charging of the buffer pack is required because the BEC maintains it. You simply set the BEC voltage to match the chemistry of your chosen buffer pack. I explained this all several weeks back but apparently I was unclear. Every feature you thought was cool about the Proguard was already there. Your wallet is just $55 lighter.

Ben Minor

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

01-29-2017 02:24 PM
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rcflyerheli

Key Veteran

Granbury, TX USA

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Ben, thanks for the info on the Kontronic, You cleared up one of the issues that has been bothering me and that was having the buffer pack and the ESC connected at the same time. With your info, there really isn't any need to put that Proguard into the system.

Dingo07, if you want to run a switch from the buffer pack to the spirit without the Proguard, then it will work. The worst that could happen is that you forget to turn it on, and that would be essentially the same as not having it there to backup the BEC output.

Goblin 700, Trex 700DFC, Gaui X7, Logo 690SX, Logo 600SX; Trex 470 Trex 500
Amain Team Rep

01-29-2017 03:23 PM
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Heli Fanatix

Veteran

Fountain Valley, CA

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Hey .. I'm always friendly and cool only if the other person is. I offered local help with anything A to Z from the get go. But you were adamant that you would be able to get everything from the forum.

I see that you are seeking help, and don't get immediate replies.
- All I said was "WOW"
- maybe I meant, "WOW, there should of been people knowing these answers and reply back to you by now."
- a cool person wouldn't think nothing of it

as far as contribution
- go back and look at all my previous posts
- Lots of contribution and some will answer your very own delima
- I helped iyoy with his buffer very timely and let him know if you dig enough, you will find the answers
- Gotta hope for help but still do your due deligence. And if it's not what you expected ... still be curtious and polite, don't lash out when it doesn't go your way.

BTW
Dr Ben suggested solid advice. FOLLOW IT!!!

His information even helped someone giving HELP

- Scott

01-29-2017 03:51 PM
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Dingo07

Senior Heliman

Newport Coast, CA - USA

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I admit I didn't know until now how the "buffer pack" worked!

Dr.Ben, thank you again for the clarification on what and how the "buffer pack" does its thing. It's hard for me to conceptualize using a term that's unfamiliar, like "buffer pack", instead of LiPo or Battery. I see the light now and updated the drawing to reflect the changes.
.
Let me know if I missed something, otherwise I need to get the Futaba switch and a LiPo to use as the "buffer pack".

.
.
I'd like to say that this has been a tough challenge for me, mainly because I like learning about every detail of what it is I'm doing, and not just follow the path put before me by others. Thank you all for your help, patience and understanding!

01-29-2017 10:22 PM
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Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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That's nearly identical to my setup which has been working well for me for several years.

  

01-29-2017 10:49 PM
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Dingo07

Senior Heliman

Newport Coast, CA - USA

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Final Update! I think...

After getting some feedback from Spirit on how to connect their device, here's what I believe is the final wiring schematic... behold in all its glory!

@Ace Dude - do you use a Spirit also?

01-30-2017 12:09 AM
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Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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Your previous diagram was IMHO best for your application. I use a Futaba CGY750 FBL.

The servos are consuming the most amount of power in the system so you want the slave lead from the ESC going directly to the Spirit FBL if possible. This is also what Dr.Ben recommended.

  

01-30-2017 12:17 AM
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Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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Agreed. Plug the slave lead into that open servo slot on the spirit. I like splitting the major power supply feeds across two separate buses, in this case one in the receiver and one in the Spirit. Any slot in a device that will drive a servo can also be used to receive input power. This is as per my description from earlier today. Following those suggestions will provide desired results; less overthinking will prove advantageous.

Ben Minor

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

01-30-2017 12:35 AM
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Dingo07

Senior Heliman

Newport Coast, CA - USA

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Excellent guys! Schematic completed...

Thanks again Dr.Ben and Ace Dude - I'll make sure to run the SLAVE from the kontronic to the Spirit as shown below.

01-30-2017 03:09 AM
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Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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Now, go fly it.

Ben

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

01-30-2017 04:17 AM
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balsabasher

Veteran

Central Ohio, USA

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I agree. Success!!!!

Blades; what goes around, comes around!

01-30-2017 04:11 PM
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Dingo07

Senior Heliman

Newport Coast, CA - USA

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The Most Final Update!

Hey guys, I've been learning a bit along the way and have come to the understanding that this final connection diagram is The BEST method in connecting these bits. Both Spirit and Kontronic have agreed, as well as you guys to a degree.
Reason 1- this method eliminated the possibility of a ground loop
Reason 2 - this method provides 2 wires should the Spirit command all the juice it can muster to run the servos

Remember this bird will likely never reach 50% of it's 3D capabilities, with my abilities as they stand now and the mechs eventually going inside Airwolf

Thanks again for all the help, and I did start the wiring!!

02-01-2017 07:06 AM
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Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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A lot of people don't bother with the buffer pack and switch.

I myself keep things as simple as possible. It's no use to you but I use Spektrum and the AR7200BX FBL unit so my setup would go ESC to AR7200BX to servos and that's it!

I don't even want to understand Sbus or Xbus.

Much prefer a nitro engine and a flybar!

60% of the time, it works every time!

02-01-2017 02:22 PM
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EEngineer

Elite Veteran

TX

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"Thanks guys for the input! Keep it coming!!"

rcflyerheli's suggestions are good, I think.

I do use a switch for the Kon buffer pack(2S LiPo, running Kon Kosmik on 8V) for ease of bench testing the avionic systems without using the main batt pack.(No chance of accidental spoolup).

And you don't have to repeatedly plug/unplug the connectors, which cause mechanical strain over time.

I've found that the internal SBECs on Kon ESCs are the best that I've tested(oscilloscope, etc), so I don't use an external SBEC with a Kon ESC.

But, always use the Kon dual-lead system to provide the current you might need for the latest servos that draw more power. Master carries signal and power...Slave carries only power.

But, when using the switch....ensure that it's a heavy duty switch to minimize the voltage drop across the switch caused by switch contact resistance to the extent possible. I'll live with that, given the ease of bench testing the avionics.

I'm using the older JR DSMX Rx's with VStabi MiniVs and Silverlines, so I'm not familiar with the Futaba setup...or even the newer JR X-Bus.

FWIW

Logo 600SXs, 700XX, 800XX

02-21-2017 10:52 PM
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