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Scorpion Power Thunder Power RC
motorrc

Heliman

canton ohio usa

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flybarless conversion

can you order just the head?

if it doesn't fit, make it fit.

09-12-2016 05:35 PM
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RAK402

Elite Veteran

Alhambra, CA

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I converted my old Raptor 50 to FBL with a Compass/TracX a few years ago.

This was a quick, easy conversion.

Unfortunately, these heads are out of production.

The Raptor flies great as an FBL machine!

Team KBDD/Compass Team Manger/Prostar Hobby/Team JR Americas/Gens Ace/WR Field Rep

09-12-2016 06:20 PM
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icanfly

Elite Veteran

ontario

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I started to gather parts for a rappy30/50 (?) and don't know if I should just list them fs or go through and also convert the swash to 120° which isn't hard to do with the bell cranks. I've done the fbl and 120° swash conversion on my Shuttle and am amused how well it flies, with the os30 still in for now(though ported and port matched, it's got a little more huff than stock).

Raptor, I like the machine with it's simplicity and cool looking frame, modern yet retro. Making it fbl with a trex 600 head and swash was the direction it would take with a os55 in it it would be a 600. I have a plastic rappy hub and bearings sitting on a main shaft in my parts pavilion, lol, duffle bag. I suppose any 10mm shaft hub from any manufacturer will fit and it only depends on sizing links after the fact, that is if you are not anal on everything being TT, build it for you and fly the dang thing.

A lot of the old fb machines look and fly nice when converted to fbl, go for it.

BTW, I successfully converted my Shuttle to 120° swash by making custom plates to mount the bell cranks back of their original position, which you may or may not see if I left a few pics in my gallery where you can view them.

Maybe I should mention I make my own main shafts sometimes and would lower the head below stock fb height if the blades were too high, 25% of the length from the main shaft to blade tip is how high off the boom it should be.

Your now obligated to post pics of your heli you know, before and after.

09-13-2016 01:41 AM
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revmix

Key Veteran

NJ

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25% of the length from the main shaft to blade tip is how high off the boom it should be.
why is that the magic number?

09-13-2016 02:25 AM
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icanfly

Elite Veteran

ontario

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anything less and your at more risk of boom strike, the measurement is an average not a definable rule so it's all up to whomever wishes to listen to the advice, get too close to the boom and (well, I finished watching a few rc heli crashes yesterday and they were midair boom strikes, how ever do those happen?).

One heli of mine has the rotor up from the boom one third of the blade distance outward, and has never seen a boom strike in crashes or hard landings, negative pitch and all applied but its a 300. My 550 has a rotor higher at 1/4 the distance between tail and main shaft and has had a boom tap on a poor auto landing but no strike, blades and feathering shaft flex. If they come off the links it's anyone's guess what will happen.

anyhow, the distance came up in a topic a year or so back. Sab had a problem with in air boom strike due to rotor too close to boom, cured by adjusting the boom away from the rotor, on a 700 I believe, we measured and took an average (Bert did a ytb video applying shims).

09-13-2016 01:04 PM
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Dee Flies 3D

Senior Heliman

Farmington Hls, Mich - USA

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MotorRC - If this is your 1st go with FBL,while you look around for a head unit, you could mod the existing head & then use it to get familiar with setup & programming of the controller you want to use. BUT you shouldn't fly too aggressive with the stock plastic pieces.
As mentioned previous, the Head Block, elevator & aileron levers AND the main Collective Arm (that holds the Aileron servo) may need to be replaced with the aluminum or carbon upgrades. May be very hard to find these parts nowadays...
Any part in the mechanical control line needs to be as stiff as possible, so the controller isn't compensating out 'slop'.
REMEMBER also - if you go to a 'Direct Link' or DFC style head, you will also have to replace the servos with stronger ones.

My Titan SE has all aluminum levers, elevator assembly & collective arm, and I don't flog on it like I do on my X-50.

09-13-2016 05:23 PM
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motorrc

Heliman

canton ohio usa

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Dee, what servos would you recommend?

if it doesn't fit, make it fit.

09-13-2016 05:37 PM
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Dee Flies 3D

Senior Heliman

Farmington Hls, Mich - USA

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MotorRC - my Titan SE was the 1st machine I made FBL. So I didn't want to replace a bunch of extra things, before I was comitted.. The servos still are- cyclic Hitec HS-7966HB's HIGH Speed [111 in/oz @6v] & Collective is a HS-7975HB HIGH Torque[145 in/oz @6v](now discontinued). System is run direct off a 2200 2cell LiFE. For a 30 size machine, any current std digital servo in the 100 in/oz range should be sufficent, and you may get away with 80 in/os for cyclic. BUT They MUST BE DIGITAL for best results & compatibility with controllers. With a FBL system, servos are a HUGE part of a successful setup, but High Voltage / super High Speed aren't a necessity until you are really flogging the machine.
If you purchase a NEW machine, then the current breed of servos make alot more sense.. The current servos have a higher power requirement, so more battery & regulator then come into the equation..
OR you could check the classifieds for someone who may have bought a 'Combo' 550 size machine, & is selling the servos that came with it. I upgraded servos in my 500 this way.

09-14-2016 04:45 PM
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