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Scorpion Power AlignRC
petiteway

Senior Heliman

Melbourne, Australia

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Both SSR-8 and SSZ-5 are the latest flybar head, just in different design, SSR heads have flybar on top of yoke and SSZ heads have flybar under the yoke. but SSR-8 is not the predecessor of SSZ-5.

Actually for F3C flying, SSZ-5 is more a predecessor of SSR-8 because it has much better hovering performance under windy condition, and the superb upstairs performance from the SSZ-4, SSZ-5 has only 4 parts different from SSZ-4 (blade holder, spindle shaft, mixing arm and pitch arm)

09-10-2016 02:17 AM
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Bugcatcher

Senior Heliman

Perth, Australia

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SSZ-5 is the latest flybar head released by Hirobo.

Was flying it on both my Eagle3 EP until I upgraded to the FBL SSZ-II head recently.

I prefer the flybar head for hovering over the SSL & SSL-II but still fine tuning. Only changed as to compete F3C you really need FBL for the current aero's.

Also of note, only difference between SSL & SSL-II is the yoke and blade grip arms. Basically just lowers the head by about 25mm. Looking at the design in detail, when they made the first SSL head they designed it so the blades where in the same plane of rotation as the flybar head. Now they realized it's not necessary so they lowered it and now in the same plane as where the flybar originally was.

Both the SSZ-4/5 and SSL-II also have an issue with low headspeeds. I have had alot trying to resolve a mast bump issue at 1450HS. Evently worked out the SSZ-5 does not like the 555mm & 535mm flybar at that HS. 490mm flybar worked well although I think a flybar of 510-520mm would be ideal but never got to try it.

Im again having mast bump issues with the SSL-II head running 1450HS and although it's not too bad as a pod/boom setup. My E3 with Blackshark fuse seems to amplify the problem. Got a couple more tests I plan to do this week that I hope will resolve it.

Lastly, for the carbon boom clamping/sliding issue. There are 2 different boom clamps and you must use the ones for carbon boom. Trick is to use ShooGoo under the clamps. In fact I use shoogoo everywhere that carbon may be subjected to vibs such as boom brace clamp and tail box as the carbon can wear at those locations. Use shoogoo and never had a problem from hundreds of flights and it just peels off if needed.

For me, besides it looking better, I prefer to use the carbon boom purely due to the weight it saves.

09-10-2016 04:22 PM
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PaulBowen

Veteran

Victoria, Australia.

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Whats the general consensus on the SSZ-IV rotor head?

I'm a Hirobo, JR, flybar, nitro and all things helicopter fanatic!

09-10-2016 11:02 PM
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Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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RE the mast bumping, have you tried using SDX dampers? That and removing the center teeter made my SSL relatively rpm tolerant.

Ben Minor

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

09-10-2016 11:46 PM
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Bugcatcher

Senior Heliman

Perth, Australia

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I tried SDX and white dampers along with a host various others things. Loose blades, delrin blade spacers, delrin centre pin. reemed/cleaned everything. Seriously, I think my heads where smoothest working head possible.

Finally I seemed to solve it by shortening the flybar.

Weird thing is I am now having a similar issue with the SSL-II head yet it is flybarless. Pod & boom is relatively stable but when I fit it to the black shark fuse, I need to increase the headspeed by 100+ to get it to settle. And that is with the SDX dampers.

To me it appears to be something out of balance throwing everything off at the lower headspeeds where it seems to be at it's worse. I have a dynamic balancer coming my way in the next couple of days. With that I hopefully will be able to get the cause of the problem once and for all.

09-11-2016 03:39 AM
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Maverick1977

Heliman

Europe

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Hello Bugcatcher,

you have written:
Lastly, for the carbon boom clamping/sliding issue. There are 2 different boom clamps and you must use the ones for carbon boom. Trick is to use ShooGoo under the clamps. In fact I use shoogoo everywhere that carbon may be subjected to vibs such as boom brace clamp and tail box as the carbon can wear at those locations. Use shoogoo and never had a problem from hundreds of flights and it just peels off if needed.

For me, besides it looking better, I prefer to use the carbon boom purely due to the weight it saves.
1.) Do you have a part number for those special boom clamps for carbon booms? Is it "0414-202"? Besides: Is the problem solved with part number "0404-736 - EX CARBON RUDDER SERVO MOUNT SET"?

2.) Do you know "0404-727 WC CARBON TAIL PIPE (WHITE)"? This is a white carbon boom. I have heard that this boom is not made out of carbon. It is alum. And just a white shrinking hose. Do you have experience?

3.) Sorry, I am no native speaker. What is ShooGoo? Do you mean ShoeGoo? Is this a product for repairing shoes? Two variants do exist: "Shoe Goo Clear" and "Shoe GOO? Adhesive" (amazon.com).

4.) Does anybody know if "0414-175 Freya Shaft Drive Set" is the same shaft drive which "0414-915 Eagle3 WC VPUS with SSR-VII, titanium frame, shaft drive, 2003" has?

Kind regards

Christoph

09-11-2016 09:22 AM
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Bugcatcher

Senior Heliman

Perth, Australia

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1.) Do you have a part number for those special boom clamps for carbon booms? Is it "0414-202"? Besides: Is the problem solved with part number "0404-736 - EX CARBON RUDDER SERVO MOUNT SET"?
0414-378 - Aluminium boom clamps BLACK
0414-329 - Carbon boom clamps BLUE
0414-328 - extra boom clamp to lock in boom from slipping
or
0404-822 - rudder clamp, same as in 0404-736
2.) Do you know "0404-727 WC CARBON TAIL PIPE (WHITE)"? This is a white carbon boom. I have heard that this boom is not made out of carbon. It is alum. And just a white shrinking hose. Do you have experience?
No experience with the white boom but for the price I would safely assume it's carbon not aluminium.
3.) Sorry, I am no native speaker. What is ShooGoo? Do you mean ShoeGoo? Is this a product for repairing shoes? Two variants do exist: "Shoe Goo Clear" and "Shoe GOO? Adhesive" (amazon.com).
Yes it's a shoe repair glue that hardens like rubber. I use the clear type. You need to be quick when you use it as it is very sticky reacts quick to the air but is perfect for use on heli's around carbon parts. And can just peel off easy if you need to remove. Not like epoxy or CA. Just gives it more grip like rubber.
I think it has been sold under different names as well but it's all the same. Zap Goo is the same as well but I just buy shoe goo, cheaper and larger tube. I have never had a boom slip after using shoe goo and you don't have to tighten the clamp very hard so no cracking of carbon booms like mentioned before.

09-11-2016 10:31 AM
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petiteway

Senior Heliman

Melbourne, Australia

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Maverick

The 0414-175 is different from E3, it's for Freya and the drive shaft is alum instead of carbon, it cannot be used to transform later E3 to E3 shaft drive standard.

For E3 WC carbon shaft drive, you need:

0404-690 EX Tail drive pipe set, this has carbon shaft, bearing rubber and delrin drive ends
0414-179 universal shaft
2526-005 stopper for tail end
2521-092 Collar
0404-642 Bevel gear 20T L
0404-641 Bevel gear 20T R
0404-657 Tail box
0414-205 EX Tail box cap
0414-204 EX Tail pitch lever stay carbon
0404-694 Carbon boom
0414-180 Bevel gear 20T for frame side
0414-201 Counter gear bearing holder assemble, this includes another set of 0414-180 plus another universal shaft, all necessary.

By ordering the above parts, plus a couple of bearings, you can transform the later E3 to shaft drive as same as E3 WC, you can use later E3's tail shaft and D3's tail blade holder/hub/pitch plate etc.

Anyways, to get the taste of E3 WC shaft drive is not cheap.

If you order the Freya one, I think you maybe ok to use the universal shaft and bevel gears from it, if you don't mind the alum shaft then you can use it, but Freya shaft drive set has been designed to use with plastic tail box so you still need extra parts from my list, then it's not economical.

BTW as what the bugcacher mentioned, I have both tail mount for carbon boom and alum boom, blue ones and the black ones, they have a little bit different inner diameter when tightened, but I still feel not sure am I cracking the carbon boom

09-11-2016 01:44 PM
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BillK

Heliman

CA

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Hi Maverick

0404-727 is definitely carbon and not heat shrink. It was the boom on the original Eagle97 WC.

Bill

09-11-2016 02:33 PM
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Maverick1977

Heliman

Europe

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Hello all,

thank you very much for your excellent help!

Kind regards

Chris

09-12-2016 11:06 PM
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BillK

Heliman

CA

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I'm also very impressed with the Hirobo knowledge coming from our friends in Australia - Petiteway; Paul Bowen and Bugcatcher!

09-12-2016 11:57 PM
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petiteway

Senior Heliman

Melbourne, Australia

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Bugcatcher is a very famous Hirobo flyer from Perth Australia, I think once I have bought some hirobo parts from him on a local RC fourm

There are not many people fly Hirobo now in Australia, maybe more people from Perth because the Hirobo distributor Perth RC is in perth.

I personally like Hirobo very much, all my helis are Hirobo, from 250 size (Quark SG and Quark SRB), Lepton EX to SDX and Eagle3, just cannot resist the blue parts and the detailed design.

Not sure what is Hirobo doing now, they still goes to hobby fairs etc but seems not very actively developing the new machine since Kurokawa and Hashimoto left.

Along with JR's annoncment about slowing down the RC development recently, the Japanese new Heli development seems a bit flat, very disappointing.

09-13-2016 12:24 AM
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Bugcatcher

Senior Heliman

Perth, Australia

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Thanks for the compliments, not sure about famous but will take it. ;-)

Unfortunately heli's have slowed down quite a bit here in Australia overall as alot of people try out FPV racing but we are still trying to promote the hobby as best we can.

Like all of here in this forum, we love the Hirobo brand and continue to fly it. Currently i'm trying to get my Eagle 3 EP's ready for the National F3C champs coming up but sadly, I will likely be the only Hirobo pilot with a range of others like JR, Quest, SAB, Align.

As Petiteway mentions, it is easier when the Oz Hirobo distributor is in Perth at Perth RC, and Brian there is great source of information as well with his background and experience.

With JR scaling down or essentially stopping all further design it does leave Hirobo with an opportunity to seize some of the market back and there is some rumors around that they are working on some new stuff. What, is anyones guess. Maybe the upcoming Tokyo Toy Fair will shed some light.

09-13-2016 03:58 AM
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payne1967

Elite Veteran

uk

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you will know when hirobo have been working on a new model
when you see the pre-production prototype flying

member of save the flybar foundation

09-15-2016 07:27 PM
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