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adamrs80

Heliman

San Antonio, TX

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I'm about ready to fly, but I got concerned about the SWM system that I installed while I was looking everything over last night after I broke in the engine with a few tanks of fuel. I converted over to SWM when the heli was built and I have not actually flown it yet. I flew a Shuttle Challenge about 15 years ago, then a JR Venture 30, and took a long break. I'm not a complete novice but certainly not an expert.

In a nutshell, the swashplate angles forward when the throttle/pitch stick is in the low stick position, the swashplate it basically level at 50%, but then is angled back towards the tail at when the throttle/pitch is at 100%. It does basically the same thing in all the flight modes, but is most obvious in auto/throttle hold because it has the most travel.

Watch at YouTube

This is a video of it. Maybe this is totally normal, I'm just trying to take care of any potential issues before it's off the ground.

Thanks,

Adam

09-04-2016 02:52 PM
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Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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What FBL controller? Are all servo arms squarely on the servos with all rod lengths matched and the swash mechanically leveled at 0 degrees?

Ben Minor

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

09-05-2016 05:06 AM
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BossieB

Heliman

Northern Cape, South Africa

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From the Video to me it looks like a standard 120deg mechanical SWM system without a controller (flybar active).

The FB cyclic (elev) servo travel too much in relation to the LR (Ail/Pitch) servo, so you get forward/back cyclic when operating pitch. I would reduce FB cyclic servo (chan2 on Futaba) travel to coinside with the pitch servo's (chan 1,6 on Futaba)

Bossie

Bossie

09-05-2016 10:12 AM
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adamrs80

Heliman

San Antonio, TX

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Thank you Dr. Ben and BossieB

I do have a normal flybar, so no controller. I tried to carefully follow the instructions and keep everything square and level as instructed. The servo arms are as close to 90 deg as possible but sometimes they just don't line up with the splines on the servo. They are close though.

I'm supposed to mechanically level the swashplate with the collective stick precisely at mid-stick correct?

I'll check the servo travel on the elev servo and see if reducing it's travel solves the problem.

09-05-2016 05:03 PM
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adamrs80

Heliman

San Antonio, TX

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Okay, I went back to square one. I measured all the linkages to make sure they are correct lengths according to the SWM conversion instructions. Then I checked the servo horns and got them as close to 90 deg as possible. Then I used the servo trims in the transmitter (not the trim adjustments on the transmitter itself but the "s trims" in my Hitec menu) to adjust so the horns were at 90 deg. Then I put the collective at mid-stick and made small adjustments to the servo tie-rod linkages to make sure the swashplate was level in all directions. Then I re-did all my pitch curves. I adjusted the EPAs on Channel 1, 2, and 6 to try and make the swashplate slide up and down as consistently level as possible. How does this look?

Watch at YouTube

09-05-2016 08:53 PM
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Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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Oh I'm sorry. I was so fixated on the swash movement I didn't notice the flybar. The other gentleman's advice is sound. No use repeating it.

Ben Minor

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

09-05-2016 09:20 PM
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BossieB

Heliman

Northern Cape, South Africa

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I am not familiar with the particular SWM system you used but it looks a lot better now. The setup should get you off the ground safely.

Bossie

Bossie

09-06-2016 03:42 PM
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adamrs80

Heliman

San Antonio, TX

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Thanks again. I used the Hirobo Shuttle SWM conversion kit, so I think it may be similar to other Hirobo SWM systems.

09-06-2016 07:08 PM
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Bugcatcher

Senior Heliman

Perth, Australia

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Hi Adam, to me, there is still problems with your setup.

There is definitely a lag in your servo's as if they are not all the same type or make.

General setup rules before needing to compensate in the radio, starting from the servo to the swash plate are.

1. Set all servo travels in radio 100% & subtrims to zero.

2. mount servo horns as close to 90deg to travel direction as possible. Subtrim if required.

3. All servo to bell cranks rod pairs need to be identical.

4. If bell cranks are centered around a single pivot point as Hirobo's are then all 3 rods from bell cranks to swash should/need to be identical in length. Balls need to be fitted at the same distance forward or rear of the pivot point so the travel distance is the same. If not then you may be able to compensate in the radio via travel endpoints.

5. If the swash plate is not level then it will usually mean that the servo wheel arms are not quite right so sub trim out.

6. If your + and - pitch maximum is not equal then most likely you bell cranks are not at 90deg. Adjust all three sub trims in the same direction and recheck swash for level.

They are the basics, probably missed a couple things but it's not something you can write up in 5 min.

09-10-2016 04:41 PM
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