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ProModeler Scorpion Power
Rappii

Heliman

Norway

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Hi,

What tools are nice to use for get right adjust to heli engines?

Are the possible to make good adjust of engines with this tools :

*IR temperature unit.
*Head Speed Tachometer unit.
example : http://www.helipal.com/magic-mirror...tachometer.html

OR are the other tools some are bettere to use in the case?

(In my case, have not 100% normal hearing, some can be hard for hear how the engines runs.)

Hirobo SDX EP,Freya Evo90, Turbulence D3 (x2),sdx long ranger nitro

09-01-2016 05:36 PM
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Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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I have a Western Robotics tach which works well.

http://www.western-robotics.com/rpmtach

Also, depending on the radio system you're using you may be able to obtain the head speed through telemetry.

I've never measured engine temperature for tuning purposes, but others have done it and at one time there was a product that adjusted needle settings based on cylinder head temperature.

  

09-01-2016 06:07 PM
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ticedoff8

Key Veteran

Morgan Hill, CA. USA

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First and foremost is to try to find a nitro engine mentor.
Someone with experience with tuning and set up on an IC engine can help you avoid the frustrations associated with this.

Personally, I think the most important "tool" is a governor.
This allows you to set a specific headspeed and the gov works to maintain it in real time without any input from you.

The optical tach is nice - but you need a definitely need a partner to tach the head - that is not something you can do while piloting.
A tach is important if you do not have a gov.
If you have a gov, you don't need a tach.

The thermometer is nice to have, but it is something that is used after you land and not done in real time.
And, by the time you land and check the temp, the engine may have already burn up with a lean run.

In terms of temperature, you don't "need" a thermometer.
Use you finger as the thermometer.
Simply touch the backplate of the engine after you land.
If it hurts, it is too lean.

If you start with the engine manufacture's recommendations for needle settings, you will not burn out the motor.
These are a starting point and not recommended as "final" settings - they will get the engine started, running and into a hover.
Then you tweak the needles a little at a time to get the engine running well.
A little at a time is the key. If you make a 1/2 turn correction on the needle, you will get into trouble.

You will notice that the needles have a sprung clip the rubs against the needle. That will "click" as you rotate the needle. When we tune, we us the term "clicks".
You should never turn more than 2 or 3 clicks at a time.

Personally, I use on-board telemetry to log the data in real time and set alarms on the radio for out of tolerance conditions.
I use the Spektrum DX9 transmitter and the Spektrum TM1000 telemetry module.
But, there are lots of options.

Jeti is coming on strong with uplink / downlink integration and real time alerting and adjustments.

But, fundamentally, none of this is required. I started flying IC helis in '87. All we had was a tail rotor gyro.

My sig is not fit for public viewing.

09-01-2016 06:35 PM
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utahbob

Senior Heliman

St. George Utah

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one of my favorite

Tools is the pocket microscope I got from Radio shack and modified it so I can screw in a used glow plug and look at the element..when the wire gets really pitted..I toss it.

I do a great decending funnel!

09-01-2016 06:53 PM
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Rappii

Heliman

Norway

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OK. Thanks for information

ticedoff8 : Yes, have learn to use fingers for of check engine.

I use for the moment Futaba 10C 2.4 radio, but also have 14Mz/2.4 too.

Two of my modelles have gov. (build in GY701 unit).

How I know is good adjust in governor / engine needle adjust?
(for moment have a little bit problem with OS 105HZ-R,cant find right adjust9).

Hirobo SDX EP,Freya Evo90, Turbulence D3 (x2),sdx long ranger nitro

09-02-2016 05:07 AM
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ticedoff8

Key Veteran

Morgan Hill, CA. USA

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I would recommend looking on YouTube for tuning videos on the OS 105.
There are a lot of them.

Also, OS Engines has all their manual online:
http://www.osengines.com/engines-he...1961/index.html
http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/105hz-manual.pdf

But, if you have a gov on the heli, make sure you have the correct gear ratio entered into the gov and that the gov is detecting the magnets.
If the gov is working working as expected, then you can focus on the needles

I don't use the OS engines.
I use YS 120SR-X (Trex 700N with 3-bladed head) and 60SR (Trex 600N DFC).
Fundamentally, they use similar "3 needle" carburetors.
There is an idle needle, a hover (mid-range) needle and a high speed needle.

Start with the OS factory recommended needle settings on all three needles.
The way to do that is to turn the hover and the high speed needles CW until they are seated (fully closed / lean). Then turn the needles CCW (open / richer) until you are at the factory recommended settings (EG: 2 turns).
Remember:
Turn the needles CW = leaner
Turn the needles CCW = richer

Be careful not to adjust the idle needle too much. If you need to adjust the idle needle, adjust it no more than 1/4 turn CW or CCW.

The OS 105HZ-R uses "crankcase pressure" to pressurize the fuel tank.
Make sure the 1-way valve is connected in the correct orientation so that pressure flows from the engine into the tank.
If you blow in on correct side of the 1-way valve, it should allow air to flow through.

Make sure the tank is nicely sealed. If there are air leaks or fuel leaks, make sure to correct them before you try to setup the engine.

Start with the idle first.
I adjust the idle with the main & tail blades removed.
This allows me to validate the gov function, fuel tank pressurization and servo operation without worrying too much about total destruction of the heli if something is not right.

BTW: At some point, you will have a "hot start".
This is where you accidentally have something not set correctly, and the engine starts and wide-open throttle.
DO NOT TRY TO DEBUG THE SITUATION!!!
The fastest, most reliable way to kill the engine quickly plug the exhaust port on the end of the pipe.
Use your thumb over the exhaust port of the muffler / pipe or squeeze the rubber stinger closed and seal it.
This will kill the motor without harm and it does it quickly.
If you forgot to turn on the radio, or the linkage is broken or the servo is dead or whatever - just plug the exhaust and the engine will die.

Adjust the throttle barrel's opening and the idle needle until you get a good, reliable idle.
When you think it is set correct, pinch the fuel line closed. The engine should speed up slightly and then die.

Now, try to hover.
It may be too rich to idle. In that case, lean the high speed needle 2 or 3 clicks and then try to hover again.
Repeat until it hovers reliably.

Once this is working for you, test a full throttle climb out from a hover.
If the engine bogs and there is a lot of smoke, land and lean the high speed needle two more clicks.
Do not get too lean.
I believe the leanest you could set the high speed needle is around 1 full turn open

The hover needle is mainly for the engine's transition from idle to high speed.
If the engine coughs, stumbles or dies in the transition from idle to high speed, the hover needle to too rich.
Lean it 2 or 3 clicks

The engine should always be checked with your finger on the backplate. If it is getting really hot, then enrichen the mixture on the HS needle one or two clicks.

My sig is not fit for public viewing.

09-02-2016 05:55 PM
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